K-frame "Target Hammer" and "Target Trigger" ? {add-on question}

[JamesD]

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Hey Friends,

I continue to work my way into the world of S&W revolvers.
I'm making progress, learning more every day.

Here's my latest quest:

Re: the K-frame revolver

My big hands, long fingers find the hammer and the trigger sorta skinny.
Especially the hammer, really feels thin to my thumb.

I've been trying to read.

Question:

Is what I'm looking for a
- .500 Target Hammer
- .500 Target Trigger

?

If so, can N.O.S. ones be reasonably found?

Leads?

Much obliged,

James

P.S. On a blued revolver we got a, what, case hardened hammer and trigger?
But what about on a stainless K-frame, what's that hammer and trigger?
Hard chrome by any chance?

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[bgrafsr]

On the stainless guns, most hammers and triggers were flashed chromed, although I believe there are some actual stainless ones too.

You can find the case hardened .500" hammers and triggers on Ebay, Gunbroker, or you can place a "Want to buy" ad in the proper section on the Forum.

If you are going to shoot "single action" most of the time, then the .500" target trigger will be okay, but if most of your shooting will be done "double action", your better off getting a smooth combat trigger, which is approx. .312" wide.

Sometimes the new parts will fit with no problems, but usually the double action sear on the hammer has to be filed a bit to get the hammer & trigger to work correctly together.

 

[murphydog]

Good information from Bill above. There are also the "semi-Target" versions of the above, which I think are .400" wide.

 

[JamesD]

Bill - Thanks for the post. One clarification placed in line below please?

On the stainless guns, most hammers and triggers were flashed chromed, although I believe there are some actual stainless ones too.

√

You can find the case hardened .500" hammers and triggers on Ebay, Gunbroker, or you can place a "Want to buy" ad in the proper section on the Forum.

√

If you are going to shoot "single action" most of the time, then the .500" target trigger will be okay, but if most of your shooting will be done "double action", your better off getting a smooth combat trigger, which is approx. .312" wide.

Aside from the dimension, am I reading you correctly that the .500" Target Trigger is serrated? (And the combat trigger smooth as you say.)

Sometimes the new parts will fit with no problems, but usually the double action sear on the hammer has to be filed a bit to get the hammer & trigger to work correctly together.

Not a job for me to do, but thankfully I have the guy who can!

Thanks for your help,

James

P.S. Good above comments all reference the various trigger options (and suggestions why each).
As regards the .500" hammer... all good? if I feel like it will ergo my thumb better?
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[chief38]

Just so you are aware........ Smith did ship stainless guns with case hardened hammers and triggers so if you do install that type on your stainless revolver it can still look Factory.

They did this after having trouble producing stainless hammers and triggers and prior to producing the flash chromed versions - sort of a stop gap.

 

[Sawfish]

Check with local gunsmiths, especially the ones that did armorer work for law enforcement agencies. Many of them changed out target hammers and triggers for the standard versions on PD guns.

 

[JamesD]

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Almost there on K-frame Hammer/Trigger Mission.

Final Question with Comments Sought:

Hammers -
I have handled a Python with a hammer I measured to be .475", and REALLY liked it.
Unless the Smith .500" Target Hammer (.025" bigger) "feels" a LOT bigger (too big?) I think it will suit me just fine.

Triggers -
I have handled the .312" smooth Combat Trigger that Bill mentioned,
and liked it a LOT better than the .250" (approx?) serrated trigger I have previously encountered.
My only wonder is... is there a smooth trigger that is wider than the .312"?
Or are all the wider triggers, .400"?, .500"? all serrated?

Thanks,

James

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[Goblin]

All the wide target triggers are going to be serrated. I'm not aware of a serrated trigger in the width mentioned for that smooth combat trigger. I prefer that trigger rounded with a Dremel, which can also be done to a wide trigger with a lot more grinding.

 

[JamesD]

All the wide target triggers are going to be serrated. I'm not aware of a serrated trigger in the width mentioned for that smooth combat trigger. I prefer that trigger rounded with a Dremel, which can also be done to a wide trigger with a lot more grinding.

Hey Mr. Goblin,

Yours is a post which has some interest for me.

You say you prefer "that" trigger rounded with a Dremel.
Which trigger does "that" refer to?

And you're rounding it how? And to what end?

Actually... can you just expand on what all you do to triggers?
I have some modest machining skills.
And am interested in what all people do.

Like...
- do you ever turn a serrated trigger into a smooth one?
- when you are finished grinding, do you re-blue the trigger? cold blue the shiny surface? leave it be?

Thanks for any information shared.

James

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[JamesD]

Tricky Question

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So... if I'm looking for (wider) hammers and triggers for K-frames...

Are any other hammers and triggers interchangeable with K's?
L's? N's?
so's I could widen my search parameters?

Or "no", stick with K-frame hammers and triggers only.

Thanks,

James

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[oldafsp]

To give you an idea of the trigger issues, here you go.

The .500 target trigger is excellent for single action work, but does not lend itself to rapid fire double action.

I shoot a Model 15 in IDPA competition. It has the .312 forged smooth combat trigger(courtesy of bgrafsr), semi combat
(.400) hammer, polished rebound slide, Wilson Combat spring kit and a .126 white outline rear sight.

With a smoothed out .500 trigger, you will find it difficult to keep from pulling your shots to the right (if rt handed). And the target hammer spur will interfere with a proper high hold on the gun.

I found the combination above the best for fast double action work.

 

[JamesD]

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Thanks Old Vet.

Without taking up too much space here...
Yep, I have a 13-3 that just happened to come with a smooth .312" trigger and I really like it.
(certainly better than a knifelike .250 serrated trigger that i have elsewhere)

And your .400 hammer might be enough (again certainly better than a knifelike .250-ish hammer I've used).

So... I'm gettin' there.

Thanks,

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[Muley Gil]

Rather than swapping triggers and hammers, I would suggest trying larger grips first. Maybe something like Herrett's Jordan style.

 

[Skeetr57]

The triggers on the K and N frame guns are the same, and probably the L frame also, but each frame size has its own hammer.

 

[JamesD]

The triggers on the K and N frame guns are the same, and probably the L frame also, but each frame size has its own hammer.

Skeeter,

See, that's why I asked. It's a wee bit tricky.
Triggers the same and hammers different.
And...I would probably have guessed K and L frames the same, and not N maybe.

And as I consider this, ya' know... I think I'm just going to ask for "K-frame parts please" and just stay off that thin ice

The K.I.S.S. principle is often best.

Thanks, and best regards,

James

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[bgrafsr]

The .400" semi target triggers are smooth, not serrated.

I personally like the .312" smooth combat triggers and the .500" target hammers, and have them on the guns I shoot. They are the color case hardened ones, and I have them on my stainless guns as well.

 

[JamesD]

The .400" semi target triggers are smooth, not serrated.

I personally like the .312" smooth combat triggers and the .500" target hammers, and have them on the guns I shoot. They are the color case hardened ones, and I have them on my stainless guns as well.

Bill,

So the .400" semi TARGET triggers are smooth, but are the FLAT?

And then there are .400" semi COMBAT which are smooth but ROUNDED?

(there's smoke coming out of my ears, I need a spreadsheet!)

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[bgrafsr]

Bill,

So the .400" semi TARGET triggers are smooth, but are the FLAT?

And then there are .400" semi COMBAT which are smooth but ROUNDED?

(there's smoke coming out of my ears, I need a spreadsheet!)

_

LOL.. As far as I know, the .400" semi target triggers are more flat, just like the serrated .500" target triggers. I have never seen a .400" semi combat trigger, just the .312" ones.

 

[Engine49guy]

James D while there are no "Absolute Rules" with S&W and although the factory used several different styles widths and finishes on different models at different times there are also long action and post war short action K frame hammers and triggers that do not interchange because they are different,
Also hammer triggers from near the same era do not always drop right in for a swap out.

The .500 wide hammer appeared around 1950 and the .500 wide trigger a few years after and became popular amongst shooters and PD but they are a bit too wide for my tastes and I have smoothed and slightly narrowed a few in my time.

My favorite combo is the smooth combat trigger with semi target hammer ,
This combination became very popular in the early 80's as the narrower hammer does not catch as easily on clothing and the smooth trigger seems more comfortable and does not blister the trigger finger as easily,

Also I dont want to confuse matters but have two .400 smooth combat triggers in the collection that are case colored leading me to believe they are original .

 

[bgrafsr]

James D while there are no "Absolute Rules" with S&W and although the factory used several different styles widths and finishes on different models at different times there are also long action and post war short action K frame hammers and triggers that do not interchange because they are different,
Also hammer triggers from near the same era do not always drop right in for a swap out.

The .500 wide hammer appeared around 1950 and the .500 wide trigger a few years after and became popular amongst shooters and PD but they are a bit too wide for my tastes and I have smoothed and slightly narrowed a few in my time.

My favorite combo is the smooth combat trigger with semi target hammer ,
This combination became very popular in the early 80's as the narrower hammer does not catch as easily on clothing and the smooth trigger seems more comfortable and does not blister the trigger finger as easily,

Also I dont want to confuse matters but have two .400 smooth combat triggers in the collection that are case colored leading me to believe they are original .

Hmm, I too have 2 .400" smooth case colored triggers. I always thought they were target triggers, but since they are "smooth", perhaps they are combat triggers and not target ones as I had thought.

Thanks Engine49guy. You just did confuse the issue.