setterhills
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I have a mid 30s k22 and would like to adjust the sights a bit. there are two screws on top and before I turn the wrong screw I thought I would ask
K22 sight adjustment
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! There were two versions of adjustable sights and by mid-1930s yours should have the 3 screw version, IIRC. Is there one screw toward the front of the blade and one at the rear next to the rear sight blade. Or, is there one at the front and two at the rear next to the sight blade? You might post a picture.
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setterhills
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I am still trying to figure out how to post a pic but it has 3 screws one toward the front of the sight and two at the rear. Then one small screw on each side of the rear sight. Serial no. is 655XXX and I will work on pics tomorrow
The side screws are simply opposing, adjustable for windage. If need to drift left, loosen left screw and tighten right.
The back two screws on top - one is a lock screw and the other is the elevation screw. I think the one closest to the blade is the lock and the other is the elevation but I get them mixed up frequently. You can't hurt it if you go in small increments. Finding the tiny screwdriver is the biggest challenge.
The back two screws on top - one is a lock screw and the other is the elevation screw. I think the one closest to the blade is the lock and the other is the elevation but I get them mixed up frequently. You can't hurt it if you go in small increments. Finding the tiny screwdriver is the biggest challenge.
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setterhills
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Ok. You have the 3 screw version for elevation. IIRC the rear screw is adjusted to raise or lower the sight blade. The small screw in front of that is the locking screw. Loosen it first to make your elevation adjustments, then tighten it to secure the setting. Don't mess with the front screw unless you intend to take the sight blade off the frame.
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setterhills
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setterhills
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Thank You very much I believe the gun is mid 30s serial is 655XXX
You have the later sight, (the best sight S&W ever made----infinitely adjustable and won't shoot loose (IF!!!), the so-called "two screw" sight---so named for the 2 screws at the rear. Our Texas friend above gets the "close but no cigar" award (as does Guy)----which puts them in good company. I dare say the vast majority of folks will tell you one of the screws is to adjust elevation and the other is to lock the adjustment. It ain't so!!
This is the first S&W sight that absolutely, positively will not shoot loose----if (IF!!!) the sight is properly adjusted and locked----PROPERLY!!!!! (And it only took them about 50 years to get it right.)
So---here's the drill: By way of introduction, BOTH the screws at the rear are employed in adjusting AND locking. Make the initial adjustment with the aft screw----get close. Make the final adjustment with the screw immediately in front of the aft screw. You're finished with adjusting. Now turn the aft screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. You're finished with locking. If you'll sit and stare at what you've done for little bit, you'll realize you've created a push/pull arrangement, and nothing is going change until you change it. Specifically, the aft screw is pulling up on the frame (by way of a flange nut in a slot in the top strap), or down on the sight if you prefer, and the screw immediately in front of the aft screw is pushing down on the frame----or up on the sight. So far so good. Now for the adjusting per se: The point of impact moves 1 inch for each full turn of an adjusting screw (elevation or windage) for each 10 yards of range.
The tiny screwdrivers can be found at Lowes -----KOBALT Precision Screwdriver Set (#0525844)----$10-$12 for 10 screwdrivers----so you know they're junk---and they are, but they have big handles so you can get a grip. For those of you who are allergic to junk, Brownells has an absolutely exquisite set of jewelers screwdrivers----6 of them----made in Germany, I believe (instead of China)---and a very nice wooden case (instead of a plastic box), for a mere $75. Now I have both of these sets. I don't remember ever using the good stuff, and that's because the handles are too small to get a grip.
THE END
Ralph Tremaine
As an aside, you're not in great danger of shooting any sight loose with a .22 Long Rifle. This "Two Screw" sight is the same one used on the 357 Magnum. I suspect the then coming 357 Magnum provided the motivation to get it right-----FINALLY.
As another aside, up there where I said this is he best sight S&W ever made, it's because it's infinitely adjustable. The so-called Micrometer (click adjustable) sight that came along with the 22/40 and is still with us today moves the point of impact yea far (whatever it is) with each click; and if you want to move it any different amount, you are, as they say, - - - - out of luck!! And that's all well and good if/when you're shooting at a paper target and/or larger targets; but if you're trying to light matches, drive nails, or murder bumblebees, you need an infinitely adjustable sight----or A LOT OF LUCK!!
This is the first S&W sight that absolutely, positively will not shoot loose----if (IF!!!) the sight is properly adjusted and locked----PROPERLY!!!!! (And it only took them about 50 years to get it right.)
So---here's the drill: By way of introduction, BOTH the screws at the rear are employed in adjusting AND locking. Make the initial adjustment with the aft screw----get close. Make the final adjustment with the screw immediately in front of the aft screw. You're finished with adjusting. Now turn the aft screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. You're finished with locking. If you'll sit and stare at what you've done for little bit, you'll realize you've created a push/pull arrangement, and nothing is going change until you change it. Specifically, the aft screw is pulling up on the frame (by way of a flange nut in a slot in the top strap), or down on the sight if you prefer, and the screw immediately in front of the aft screw is pushing down on the frame----or up on the sight. So far so good. Now for the adjusting per se: The point of impact moves 1 inch for each full turn of an adjusting screw (elevation or windage) for each 10 yards of range.
The tiny screwdrivers can be found at Lowes -----KOBALT Precision Screwdriver Set (#0525844)----$10-$12 for 10 screwdrivers----so you know they're junk---and they are, but they have big handles so you can get a grip. For those of you who are allergic to junk, Brownells has an absolutely exquisite set of jewelers screwdrivers----6 of them----made in Germany, I believe (instead of China)---and a very nice wooden case (instead of a plastic box), for a mere $75. Now I have both of these sets. I don't remember ever using the good stuff, and that's because the handles are too small to get a grip.
THE END
Ralph Tremaine
As an aside, you're not in great danger of shooting any sight loose with a .22 Long Rifle. This "Two Screw" sight is the same one used on the 357 Magnum. I suspect the then coming 357 Magnum provided the motivation to get it right-----FINALLY.
As another aside, up there where I said this is he best sight S&W ever made, it's because it's infinitely adjustable. The so-called Micrometer (click adjustable) sight that came along with the 22/40 and is still with us today moves the point of impact yea far (whatever it is) with each click; and if you want to move it any different amount, you are, as they say, - - - - out of luck!! And that's all well and good if/when you're shooting at a paper target and/or larger targets; but if you're trying to light matches, drive nails, or murder bumblebees, you need an infinitely adjustable sight----or A LOT OF LUCK!!
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setterhills
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Thanks I went to lowes and got the screw drivers but the back screw will not turn. will its not that far off I dont wanna mess up the screw heads
You guys are fixated with screw heads and slots. And little tiny
screw drivers from Germany and China. If it works, leave it alone.
And yes I have all the screwdrivers that fit every screw on every
S&W.
screw drivers from Germany and China. If it works, leave it alone.
And yes I have all the screwdrivers that fit every screw on every
S&W.
Here's a great photo post from Lee that lets you see what you're doing...
The forward of the two rear screws is the "Check elevation screw". It checks, as in STOPS movement.
LOOSEN it to start with- turn it to the left. If you loosen it too much, it will FALL OUT. Forget about it for now.
The rearmost screw is the elevation screw. Notice it has a FOOT that fits in a slot in the frame. It is a normal right hand thread. Turning it to the right RAISES the rear sight by jacking it up, so turning it left LOWERS the rear sight by pulling it toward the frame.
Once the rear sight is adjusted, turn the CHECK screw gently to the right and snug it against the frame. You are trying to put the two screws in a bind against each other to keep the elevation screw from moving.
The sight was designed to help Al Capone's hit men commit bumbleside?
I have been asked to speak to the difference in my instructions for setting and locking the elevation setting of the "two screw" sight and those provided by "handejector" in post #12. I believe the most appropriate response is to simply quote the instructions provided by S&W in their brochures on the guns fitted with this sight.
To wit: "In adjusting the rear sight for elevation, first loosen the blocking screw (ahead of the elevating screw), make the approximate desired adjustment with the elevating screw, and the final adjustment with the blocking screw. After obtaining the final correct adjustment in this manner the sight is locked in place by turning the elevating screw counterclockwise as far as possible. When done in this manner the adjustment cannot change. As the windage screws are opposed they are self-locking and it is only necessary to see that they are firmly seated to be assured of a permanent adjustment."
I trust this will suffice.
As to Al Capone's hit men committing bumbleside, I can speak only to my commission of that act, and God's or Mother Nature's reaction thereto. The bullet (a Long Rifle hollow-point) passed through the bumblebee, striking the interior of a fence post fashioned from angle iron in such fashion as to split into halves and return to whence they came----striking me in both upper arms with sufficient force to break the skin and become lodged about half in and half out---facilitating fairly simple extraction. As for me, I refrained from shooting at bumblebees perched on such fence posts.
Ralph Tremaine
To wit: "In adjusting the rear sight for elevation, first loosen the blocking screw (ahead of the elevating screw), make the approximate desired adjustment with the elevating screw, and the final adjustment with the blocking screw. After obtaining the final correct adjustment in this manner the sight is locked in place by turning the elevating screw counterclockwise as far as possible. When done in this manner the adjustment cannot change. As the windage screws are opposed they are self-locking and it is only necessary to see that they are firmly seated to be assured of a permanent adjustment."
I trust this will suffice.
As to Al Capone's hit men committing bumbleside, I can speak only to my commission of that act, and God's or Mother Nature's reaction thereto. The bullet (a Long Rifle hollow-point) passed through the bumblebee, striking the interior of a fence post fashioned from angle iron in such fashion as to split into halves and return to whence they came----striking me in both upper arms with sufficient force to break the skin and become lodged about half in and half out---facilitating fairly simple extraction. As for me, I refrained from shooting at bumblebees perched on such fence posts.
Ralph Tremaine
Dave from Pa
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
There you have it, learned something new today.What a great place.Richard and Ralph TKS
