Ken-Onion Edition Knife Sharpener - Opinions
- Thread starter TOM BECKWITH
- Start date
OMCHamlin
US Veteran
One thing worth noting is like other devices for sharpening, it is NOT automatic, it still requires a bit of skill and finesse, but it does make the job easier and quicker if you know how to use it.
I guess if you don't know how to use it, it will at least ruin a blade quicker, so either way, it saves time, right?
I guess if you don't know how to use it, it will at least ruin a blade quicker, so either way, it saves time, right?
OP
Thanks to all of you for your input and for those to come. This is all great information. I tend to buy gadgets to play with and could probably do fine with what I presently have (Lansky, other stones and pull thru units - including a small hard stone that my grandfather used to sharpen his scalpels for hemmoride (SP?) surgery that he did in the 1920-40 era). Like many of you, I carry a knife (Cold Steel) and use them for cooking, skinning, etc. I am somewhat mixed as to how it may work for me. Might be smart if I could find a used one to play with. Will post on our WANTED section to keep it legal.
Again, Thank You for all the good input.
T
Again, Thank You for all the good input.
T
garddogg56
Member
LANSKY,the best
timely post. I just picked up the KO from Amazon cheap and have been learning it. So far, it puts a pretty good edge on my cheap knives. I have not put any of my good ones on it though. Took it to work and let the other instructors give it a whirl with their knives and got good results..
All that said there is some issues I foresee with it, small knives being one of them. It's still hard to keep the angles, but that could be that I just need to practice more. I am going to do my lawn mower blades and the cheap set of kitchen knives before I fully pass judgement on it.
All that said there is some issues I foresee with it, small knives being one of them. It's still hard to keep the angles, but that could be that I just need to practice more. I am going to do my lawn mower blades and the cheap set of kitchen knives before I fully pass judgement on it.
The NRA convention was in Nashville a couple of years ago, for the second time and Benchmade had a display set up and a work station. They advertised, at the show, that you could drop off your Benchmade knife and they would give it the once over.
I notice that they were using the KO sharpener to sharpen the knives as the final step of the service overhaul. I was able to speak with one of the knife smiths about the KO sharpener, how they used it, what belts they used and his opinion of the device.
Based on what I learned and experienced, first hand, from Benchmade, I came home from the convention and ordered one from a vendor on flea bay. As others have stated, I started out with the kitchen knives, read and FOLLOWED the instructions and applied what the folks at the Benchmade display had told me.
I am completely satisfied with the KO sharpener and use it for all of my knives from my daily carry to my primary hunting knives, including my Randall Mod. 28. It works and my knives have a razor like edge that makes field dressing a deer a breeze.
If it is good enough for Benchmade, it is good enough for my needs.
Good luck.
I notice that they were using the KO sharpener to sharpen the knives as the final step of the service overhaul. I was able to speak with one of the knife smiths about the KO sharpener, how they used it, what belts they used and his opinion of the device.
Based on what I learned and experienced, first hand, from Benchmade, I came home from the convention and ordered one from a vendor on flea bay. As others have stated, I started out with the kitchen knives, read and FOLLOWED the instructions and applied what the folks at the Benchmade display had told me.
I am completely satisfied with the KO sharpener and use it for all of my knives from my daily carry to my primary hunting knives, including my Randall Mod. 28. It works and my knives have a razor like edge that makes field dressing a deer a breeze.
If it is good enough for Benchmade, it is good enough for my needs.
Good luck.
OldSarge21
Member
I use the original Worksharp to do my filet knives and Chicago cutlery boning and butcher knives. I have also used it to recontour a broken blade tip. I think it works great on those thin knives but I use Lansky or stones on my hunting knives with thicker blades.
Picked up a KO recentl along with the angle guide attachment w/1" belts. After using it for a couple of weeks on every knive in the house, all my wetstones, diamond stones and ceramic sticks are in a box in the garage. Razor sharp edges in just minutes.
I had a fabulous knife sharpener that I lost in my 2018 fire but my good friend, FFL, and gunsmith uses an AccuSharp Knife Sharpener and it's a simple, handheld device that works like magic.
Gene L
Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2019
- Messages
- 1,232
- Reaction score
- 2,090
I like mine. I don't know that I would put a super-fine knife on it, but I don't see any rational reason why not.
I put a fine edge on my old kukri, so fine it will fine-slice a tomato. So for a large knife it worked great. Also great for kitchen knives. Should work as well on hunting knives, but since I don't hunt and use them, my hunting knives don't need resharpening.
I have other methods for sharpening knives by hand and sharpened my old Puma White Hunter by hand. It seemed to take forever.
I put a fine edge on my old kukri, so fine it will fine-slice a tomato. So for a large knife it worked great. Also great for kitchen knives. Should work as well on hunting knives, but since I don't hunt and use them, my hunting knives don't need resharpening.
I have other methods for sharpening knives by hand and sharpened my old Puma White Hunter by hand. It seemed to take forever.
I first learned to sharpen knives with the Buck Knife stone kit--4" soft Arkansas and tiny hard Arkansas stone. I still have those stones 40+ years later--the soft stone is bowed beyond use but the little hard Arkansas is still flat and good to go (I was lucky and got a really hard translucent stone).
I then learned to sharpen knives professionally on a 1X42 Black & Decker belt sander and I got to be pretty good at it--if you didn't mind the look of a convex edge I could sharpen a Case Bowie to where it would neatly ribbon up a sheet of typing paper: hold the corner of a sheet of paper by thumb and forefinger, take long swipes with the blade and a 1/4" ribbon of cleanly sliced paper would spiral neatly to the floor.
I still have and use a 1" belt sander to sharpen kitchen knives, scissors and machetes.
I use a Lansky for my folders and hunting/fishing knives.
A chef-type diamond hone keeps everything sharp for daily/frequent use, when the blade is really dull I re-grind the edge using either the Lansky or the belt sander.
The KO sharpener looks like it works very much like the belt sander, although I admit that I've never really taken a close look at it. For me, the longer belt and more powerful motor on the belt sander makes quick work of sharpening stuff. The longer track of the belt and the heavy, stable base/motor of the sander makes it easier to sharpen long and/or wide blades.
I then learned to sharpen knives professionally on a 1X42 Black & Decker belt sander and I got to be pretty good at it--if you didn't mind the look of a convex edge I could sharpen a Case Bowie to where it would neatly ribbon up a sheet of typing paper: hold the corner of a sheet of paper by thumb and forefinger, take long swipes with the blade and a 1/4" ribbon of cleanly sliced paper would spiral neatly to the floor.
I still have and use a 1" belt sander to sharpen kitchen knives, scissors and machetes.
I use a Lansky for my folders and hunting/fishing knives.
A chef-type diamond hone keeps everything sharp for daily/frequent use, when the blade is really dull I re-grind the edge using either the Lansky or the belt sander.
The KO sharpener looks like it works very much like the belt sander, although I admit that I've never really taken a close look at it. For me, the longer belt and more powerful motor on the belt sander makes quick work of sharpening stuff. The longer track of the belt and the heavy, stable base/motor of the sander makes it easier to sharpen long and/or wide blades.
Last edited:
Hello Tom
Allow me to offer an opinion and agree with those who cautioned against using any motorized sharpening apparatus, these will compromise the temper of the blade and it will not hold an edge if you overheat it. Only an experienced user can produce a perfectly sharpened blade without doing a little damage to the blade, in my opinion.
I found something I really like called a "Work Sharp", just a small hand held tool with replaceable medium & fine diamond impregnated panels plus the white finishing abrasive rod and a strip of leather for removing the metal burs when you have completed the sharpening process.
When you sharpen your lawnmower blades the same will apply if you allow the edge to overheat and your blade/blades will need to be replaced more often, I use coarse files to get the blade back in shape and then the fine files to sharpen the cutting area.
If you are able to locate a used Ken Onion sharpener and practice on some of your less expensive knives to "Hone" your user skills you will do just fine.
Allow me to offer an opinion and agree with those who cautioned against using any motorized sharpening apparatus, these will compromise the temper of the blade and it will not hold an edge if you overheat it. Only an experienced user can produce a perfectly sharpened blade without doing a little damage to the blade, in my opinion.
I found something I really like called a "Work Sharp", just a small hand held tool with replaceable medium & fine diamond impregnated panels plus the white finishing abrasive rod and a strip of leather for removing the metal burs when you have completed the sharpening process.
When you sharpen your lawnmower blades the same will apply if you allow the edge to overheat and your blade/blades will need to be replaced more often, I use coarse files to get the blade back in shape and then the fine files to sharpen the cutting area.
If you are able to locate a used Ken Onion sharpener and practice on some of your less expensive knives to "Hone" your user skills you will do just fine.
The tool you refer to sounds like the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener. I have the Ken Onion sharpener and a variety of stones, hones, rods and files, but the Field Sharpener is my go-to for most blades. It is about the size of a large harmonica and is easy to pack for trips.
The coarse diamond plate gets sparing use. The fine plate,the ceramic rod and ths small strop keep most of my pocket blades blades shaving sharp.
Use it anywhere, without a table or bench if necessary.
The coarse diamond plate gets sparing use. The fine plate,the ceramic rod and ths small strop keep most of my pocket blades blades shaving sharp.
Use it anywhere, without a table or bench if necessary.
Tom, trust your granddad. Believe me, he was on to something there. I pretty much stick to some quality Arkansas stones...starting off with a soft stone, progressing to a hard stone, then to an old Escher stone used for razors, then a couple of swipes on a leather strop.
If you don't let your knives get dull, usually a few swipes on the hard stone to touch 'em up will be sufficient.
Does it take more time than grindin' them down with a power sharpener? Sure, but think of it this way. Why the heck do you think they still make Arkansas stones? Nostalgia? Heck no! It's because if you really want a good, precise edge, you go to a stone.
Just my view from the saddle.
Similar threads
