KFrame Serial Number

[C.Ketcham]

Hi there,

I just purchased a nice S&W .38 Police Special K-Frame at a local Pawn Shop for $280.00. I felt I got a good deal on it considering the market right now. I'm looking at two numbers on the gun for I.D.. One is on the cylinder carriage and reads 99727 which I believe is the serial number and dates the gun to around 1976-77. The number on the butt of the gun however is AYMO235 so I am wondering if this has any significance or perhaps I have a gun that is assembled from more than one model?

Any insight as to what I have and what the numbers discrepancy means would be greatly appreciated. Also, can I get (NIB) S&W grips for this or do I have to settle for the Hogue look-alikes?

 

[shawn mccarver]

Hi there,

I just purchased a nice S&W .38 Police Special K-Frame at a local Pawn Shop for $280.00. I felt I got a good deal on it considering the market right now. I'm looking at two numbers on the gun for I.D.. One is on the cylinder carriage and reads 99727 which I believe is the serial number and dates the gun to around 1976-77. The number on the butt of the gun however is AYMO235 so I am wondering if this has any significance or perhaps I have a gun that is assembled from more than one model?

Any insight as to what I have and what the numbers discrepancy means would be greatly appreciated. Also, can I get (NIB) S&W grips for this or do I have to settle for the Hogue look-alikes?

The official serial number on Smith & Wesson revolvers is on the butt of the revolver. Your serial number is AYM0235 - it is 3 letters followed by 4 numbers.

The other numbers are most assembly numbers and have no significance whatsoever.

 

[C.Ketcham]

Model 64 K frame ID

Thanks Shawn. Any idea on how old this is? I'm now thinking sometime in the 80's.

And do you have a thought on the grips for this? I have some old Pachmayrs that came with the gun but their a bit worn and a little big for my hand.

 

[mkk41]

AYM puts it in 1987.

 

[Wingmaster]

Also look on ebay. If you look you can probably find a set of grips that match the wear on the rest of the gun.
Welcome to the forum. I think you will like this gun and it probably won't be your last.

Wingmaster

 

[C.Ketcham]

Thanks- yes, I like it a lot so far. Had it on the range today and only thing I was experiencing was it shooting to the right a bit. I suspect it is me as I am left handed but I shoot a rifle righty. I tend to sight with my opposite eye and am wondering if doing that is making an issue of it. (Any assistance here is great as have not been shooting pistol long). I did color the front sight with a little red and white nail polish so I can line things up better. Anyway- will probably come across another S&W that I like and have to buy. Holding out for a mid to late 80's Colt python (I think they're beautiful guns) but gotta save some money first.

 

[Janitor]

Congratulations on a good find, and welcome to the S&W forums.

... Holding out for a mid to late 80's Colt python (I think they're beautiful guns) but gotta save some money first.

Whoo-boy. Save a lot of money first.

 

[C.Ketcham]

Yeah- looking at it as an investment- and they're purty guns too.

 

[C.Ketcham]

While I'm at it, what's your opinion (or anyone's for that matter) on using +P in that Model 64? Although it has a heavy barrel the frame is pretty standard for .38. Should I stay away from +P or is it OK to shoot in that gun from 1987?

 

[Janitor]

Yeah- looking at it as an investment- and they're purty guns too.

Indeed they are.

I'd wait till someone who's a bit brighter than I am comes along (most likely the next guy, or the guy after that) to find out about the +P in your model 64. But from what I understand it really should boil down to steel frame is ok but an aluminum frame not so much.

I'm guessing you should be ok, especially if it's not a steady diet of them.

But again - wait till someone who actually knows what they're talking about comes along. I'm from the school of thinking that +P isn't really all that big a deal.

 

[steelslaver]

While I'm at it, what's your opinion (or anyone's for that matter) on using +P in that Model 64? Although it has a heavy barrel the frame is pretty standard for .38. Should I stay away from +P or is it OK to shoot in that gun from 1987?

The model 64 is built using the same frame as a models 65 and 66 , which are chambered in 357 mag. It has the same diameter cylinder and at this date I find it hard to believe that S&W would use a different heat treatment treatment on any of their models. Heck my model 640-1 is a smaller J frame chambered in 357 mag. Hurts me more than the gun shooting 357s. As with all guns the heavier or hotter the load for a given cambering the faster the wear. A model 64 might last 50,000 rounds of mild 148 grain wad cutters and "only" 10,000 rounds of +p. I have no doubt that any post 50s steel K frame 38 specials will handle +P loads. None in good condition will blow up, the question is how long before forcing cone erosion, wear and maybe a bit of frame stretch means its rebuilt time.

For my own curiosity I took and older model 10-2, fitted it with a model 19 357 cylinder and barrel and it has over 500 rounds of 357 down it with no ill effects. 500 rounds isn't much true, but I have a bunch of fun guns in what I call the sub calibers. (don't start with a 4). So, it just lays in the safe in case I ever need a gun where it may well get trashed.