I hand my dull knives to my eldest grandson. He does a bang-up job and like Bluto said: "it don't cost nothing".
Knife sharpening
- Thread starter F4phantom
- Start date
I have a large knife collection. Some are collectors (mint pre-1990 Case folders) some more modern (Emerson. Benchmade, Spyderco, Cold Steel, Busse, Kellam, Ahti, Marttiini, Roselli). Blade shape sort of determines the optimal sharpening method. However for a beginner I would avoid anyththat is powered. It is too easy to do too much and do more harm than good. A cheap but very good sharpening system is the lowly crock sticks. A wood block with 2 or 4 angled holes and 2 or 4 round ceramic rods. You only need to hold the knife with the blade vertical and let just the edge slide down the rod while moving down and back at the same time. Sounds complicated but it is simple. YouTube has videos. A set of crock stick is cheap and very effective. Just make sure the rods are generally straight and have no defects. In general the grey rids are rougher and the white ones are smoother. I will use a little bit of adhesive paper label to make sure the kids if snug in the base. As metal builds up on the rod rotate it a slight amount. The rods can be cleaned with stove top cleaner and rinsed under water. Ebay can be a good source for some crock sticks (under $20). The longer ones are easier to use. Good luck.
DRankin
Member
Made me smile.
I use these in the kitchen everyday.
As near as I can tell the skinner was made prior to about 1875 because that's when J. Russsell/Green River Works changed from a stamped logo to one acid etched. The kitchen knife is not marked but shows the same handle materials, rivets and age.
They were discovered together when an old pioneer house was being demolished in northern rural Nevada.
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I can't sharpen a knife if my life depends on it.
Neighbor is retired and loves to sharpen stuff.
Works out well, I get sharp knives, he gets bourbon.
Neighbor is retired and loves to sharpen stuff.
Works out well, I get sharp knives, he gets bourbon.
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I have been using the Lansky system for about 40 years. They will replace any damaged stones and actually sent me a new box when I told them the original red one warped over time.
I have used and own a number of stones, but I rely on the Lansky for my kitchen knives.
I machined my own 'stand' to place in my vice so I don't have to hang on to the knife/clamp assembly during sharpening. Works nicely as it pivots when needed for blade lengths.
I transitioned my original stone system to add some diamond cutters. Medium and fine only. The original course stones cut some of the work in half when needed.
bdGreen
I have used and own a number of stones, but I rely on the Lansky for my kitchen knives.
I machined my own 'stand' to place in my vice so I don't have to hang on to the knife/clamp assembly during sharpening. Works nicely as it pivots when needed for blade lengths.
I transitioned my original stone system to add some diamond cutters. Medium and fine only. The original course stones cut some of the work in half when needed.
bdGreen
Porcelain plates and metal pans are real edge destroyers. Bone and coarse hair ain't the best on them either.
My wife and step daughters can wreck an edge quick. I have an old carbon steel butcher knife in the rack I use a lot. It stays sharp because it is ugly and they don't use it. LOL
My wife and step daughters can wreck an edge quick. I have an old carbon steel butcher knife in the rack I use a lot. It stays sharp because it is ugly and they don't use it. LOL
The most important thing I learned about sharpening is to sharpen one side until a burr forms along the edge, then switch to the other side and sharpen until you get a burr. At that point the two sides have come together in the sharpest edge possible. Then strop off the burr.
Another thing that helped me was to use coarser stones to start with. If I start with too fine a grit I get frustrated or bored and start varying the angle. Unless the blade is pretty sharp to begin with, I start with a diamond stone, then progress to medium and fine.
I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker with the diamond rods. The only angle you need to maintain is 90 degrees, which is easy to recognize and keep. After I get a burr with the coarse rods I use the medium until I get a burr and then usually go to the fine rods and get a burr. Then strop off the burr.
For cutting meat and other fibrous material like rope, a medium grit cuts better than a fine grit. For carving wood, use a fine grain to finish.
Another thing that helped me was to use coarser stones to start with. If I start with too fine a grit I get frustrated or bored and start varying the angle. Unless the blade is pretty sharp to begin with, I start with a diamond stone, then progress to medium and fine.
I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker with the diamond rods. The only angle you need to maintain is 90 degrees, which is easy to recognize and keep. After I get a burr with the coarse rods I use the medium until I get a burr and then usually go to the fine rods and get a burr. Then strop off the burr.
For cutting meat and other fibrous material like rope, a medium grit cuts better than a fine grit. For carving wood, use a fine grain to finish.
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