Lake City 30-06 brass

[raljr1]

I was starting to tumble 30-06 brass in preparation for starting to reload some. I have a few hundred rounds, and I notices a quantity of Lake City brass. I assume that this was ammo that I shot thru my Garand, because I have never shot it through my Rem 760.

Is the any reason not to load this up for use in either the Garand or one of the other '06s I have. I usually would load 165 grain in 30-06 cases, but I understand that the Garand loads should be 150 grain FMJ. Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Nevada Ed]

I would save the Lake City brass for the Garand,

if you have enough of the others, for your bolt actions or other 30-06 rifles
for ammo that you need.

What ever works.

I do, however, have 100 old GI brass cases, that have been reloaded
for my old custom , 1903 bolt action, four to five times,
with 100 to 200gr factory spitzers, for my target plinking
from 50 out to 1,000 yards.

 

[jjrr]

It’s good brass and if it is lc ball the primer pockets will have a crimp, if it’s match no primer pocket crimp. Garands do very well with with 165 or 168 the bullet in the match ammo is 173gr..

 

[minconrevo]

My first choice for M1 Garand brass is LC match. 2nd choice is any other LC.

 

[SnidelyWhiplash]

150-172 grain or thereabouts for a M1. Look up reloading data for the M1 rifle and stick to that…otherwise you might damage the op-rod.

 

[DWalt]

Use them as you would any commercial brass. If headstamped later than the early 1950’s it would have noncorrosive priming. If earlier, soak them in hot water first to remove any corrosive priming residue inside. The only concern about use in an M1 is the propellant choice, nothing slower than IMR 4064. IMR (or H) 4895 is the best. Reaming primer pockets may or may not be necessary, Try and see.

 

[raljr1]

I would save the Lake City brass for the Garand,

if you have enough of the others, for your bolt actions or other 30-06 rifles
for ammo that you need.

Plenty of Rem, S&W, and other cases for the 760.

 

[raljr1]

Use them as you would any commercial brass. If headstamped later than the early 1950’s it would have noncorrosive priming. If earlier, soak them in hot water first to remove any corrosive priming residue inside. The only concern about use in an M1 is the propellant choice, nothing slower than IMR 4064. IMR (or H) 4895 is the best. Reaming primer pockets may or may not be necessary, Try and see.

David,

The powder I have for '06 is 4350. I think a friend loaded me some 150 grains behind 53.5 grains of 4350. I might want o back that down a bit with the heavier bullet.

It seems to generate about the same velocities as 4064. What do you think?

and thank. This will be my first 30-06 loads and rifle . I'll probably load 20 and try them. I think I have 600 empties, mostly Remington...

 

[ArchAngelCD]

David,

The powder I have for '06 is 4350. I think a friend loaded me some 150 grains behind 53.5 grains of 4350. I might want o back that down a bit with the heavier bullet.

It seems to generate about the same velocities as 4064. What do you think?

and thank. This will be my first 30-06 loads and rifle . I'll probably load 20 and try them. I think I have 600 empties, mostly Remington...

DO NOT USE 4350 for your Garand ammo. The pressure curve is incorrect for that rifle when it hits the gas port and eventually will bend your Op-Rod. Years ago it would be no big deal but for the past Decade or so the rod has become very expensive with an even bigger jump in price the past few years. (most times over $150)

There used to be a site named Master Poe's Temple which had tons of information on it. (without the "e" but the cuss filter thought it was a banned word)
Here is part of that information:

Recommended .30 caliber M1 loadings from the NRA

147 - 155 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets

IMR 3031 - 48.0 grains
IMR 4895 - 49.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 50.0 grains
W748 - 48.0 grains
AA2460 - 49.0 grains
AA2520 - 51.0 grains
AA2495 - 50.5 grains
H4895 - 49.0 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 49.0 grains
RL-12 - 48.0 grains

165/168 grain FMJ, HP or SP bullets

IMR 4895 - 47.0 grains
IMR 4094 - 48.0 grains
AA2520 - 47.5 grains
AA2495 - 47.0 grains
H4895 - 47.5 grains
BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
H335 - 47.0 grains
RL-12 - 44.5 grains

173/175 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets

IMR 4895 - 46.0 grains
IMR 4064 - 47.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.0 grains
AA2495 - 46.0 grains
H4895 - 47.0 grains
BLC-2 - 48.0 grains

180 grain FMJ, SP or HPBT bullets

IMR 4895 - 43.0 grains
AA2460 - 46.5 grains
AA2495 - 45.5 grains
H4895 - 44.0 grains
BLC-2 - 47.5 grains
RL-12 - 41.5 grains

Like I said, the site is no more but the data is priceless IMO.
Here is an archive link to the old site.
http://web.archive.org/web/20000620055732/home.att.net/~Masterpo/M1load.htm

 

[raljr1]

DO NOT USE 4350 for your Garand ammo. The pressure curve is incorrect for that rifle when it hits the gas port and eventually will bend your Op-Rod. Years ago it would be no big deal but for the past Decade or so the rod has become very expensive with an even bigger jump in price the past few years. (most times over $150)


http://web.archive.org/web/20000620055732/home.att.net/~Masterpo/M1load.htm

Thank you. I appreciate the heads up. I will get some 4064, and keep the lake City brass separate.

 

[DWalt]

Many handloading manuals provide separate loading data for use in the M1 because there are some propellants that can lead to oprod damage. Additionally, you will see recommendations that the CCI #41 primer should be used for M1 loads instead of ordinary LR primers as it is more resistant to slam fires.

 

[raljr1]

Many handloading manuals provide separate loading data for use in the M1 because there are some propellants that can lead to oprod damage. Additionally, you will see recommendations that the CCI #41 primer should be used for M1 loads instead of ordinary LR primers as it is more resistant to slam fires.

Thanks, Just checked, I have 1000 of those on hand....also, not to self...don't put all of the bullets in one bin. 2 cubit feet of lead is heavy!

 

[Miracle Man]

David,

The powder I have for '06 is 4350. I think a friend loaded me some 150 grains behind 53.5 grains of 4350. I might want o back that down a bit with the heavier bullet.

It seems to generate about the same velocities as 4064. What do you think?

and thank. This will be my first 30-06 loads and rifle . I'll probably load 20 and try them. I think I have 600 empties, mostly Remington...

My 30-06 simply loves 4350 but it's a Rem 700 bolt action. Sounds like you shouldn't use it in M1 though.

 

[pantannojack]

I have fired thousands of Garand loads over the course back in the 90's. Common knowledge was reduce by two grains when using mil brass compared to commercial brass. Never load with powder slower than IMR 4064. Never use bullets heaver than 180g. The rifle was designed for 147-150g. The same when shooting the 7.62mm in M1A.

 

[mikld]

I used a lot of LC brass for my Garand, various years production. The only problem was with certain loads the case hit the OP rod hump on ejection and dinged the rim. No big deal. The 150 gr bullet suggestion deals with original loading, 147 gr FMJ. When I started reloading for my Garand I used two sources for data; Master Po and Hornady "M1 Garand" data with 147 gr FMJ pulls (I used pulls mostly to just get used to reloading for my new to me Garand). I used a lot of LC brass with bullets from 125 gr. to 168 gr. mostly IMR 4064. A lot of good knowledge/experience here Reloading - CMP Forums

 

[GypsmJim]

DO NOT USE 4350 for your Garand ammo. The pressure curve is incorrect for that rifle when it hits the gas port and eventually will bend your Op-Rod. Years ago it would be no big deal but for the past Decade or so the rod has become very expensive with an even bigger jump in price the past few years. (most times over $150)

There used to be a site named Master Poe's Temple which had tons of information on it. (without the "e" but the cuss filter thought it was a banned word)
Here is part of that information:


Like I said, the site is no more but the data is priceless IMO.
Here is an archive link to the old site.
http://web.archive.org/web/20000620055732/home.att.net/~Masterpo/M1load.htm

This thread piqued my interest because I reload for an M1. I developed my loads many years ago based on data that I researched back then, using several manuals I had.

I use 150 gr. jacketed and lead bullets, using IMR 3031. Obviously, function is important, but accuracy is as well. My powder amounts are considerably less than the the NRA data shown above. For example, 48 gr. of 3031 with a 150 bullet is almost at max, at least based on the manuals I have.

I'm quite happy with my loads. My only concern would be op rod damage as indicated here. Is a lighter load a problem?

 

[GypsmJim]

Use them as you would any commercial brass. If headstamped later than the early 1950’s it would have noncorrosive priming. If earlier, soak them in hot water first to remove any corrosive priming residue inside. The only concern about use in an M1 is the propellant choice, nothing slower than IMR 4064. IMR (or H) 4895 is the best. Reaming primer pockets may or may not be necessary, Try and see.

About 20 years ago I found a sale on US 30-06 ammo, so I bought a couple cases. I have reloaded many of them but I still have an unused case. The ad said "non-corrosive", other wise I would have passed. The headstamp is SL52. Obviously they had been removed from belts.

This thread made me wonder, so I looked up the codes. Apparently, 52 was the transition. 53 was a safe bet. I have never noticed any issues, and I confess to not cleaning my guns the same day I shoot them.

I DO know how to clean up after using corrosive ammo. Other than rust, how can one tell if it is corrosive?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

This thread piqued my interest because I reload for an M1. I developed my loads many years ago based on data that I researched back then, using several manuals I had.

I use 150 gr. jacketed and lead bullets, using IMR 3031. Obviously, function is important, but accuracy is as well. My powder amounts are considerably less than the the NRA data shown above. For example, 48 gr. of 3031 with a 150 bullet is almost at max, at least based on the manuals I have.

I'm quite happy with my loads. My only concern would be op rod damage as indicated here. Is a lighter load a problem?

You are perfectly fine using 3031 and lighter loads will not harm the Op-Rod. The data in the Temple site is replicating the military loads which are usually hotter than commercial loads. With my M1 I load 46.4gr H4895 under a 150gr or 168gr bullet. Those are very accurate in my rifle.

As for 4350, I use that powder for all my 30-06 ammo but for the M1 ammo. I agree that powder seems to be made for the '06.

 

[Miracle Man]

You are perfectly fine using 3031 and lighter loads will not harm the Op-Rod. The data in the Temple site is replicating the military loads which are usually hotter than commercial loads. With my M1 I load 46.4gr H4895 under a 150gr or 168gr bullet. Those are very accurate in my rifle.

As for 4350, I use that powder for all my 30-06 ammo but for the M1 ammo. I agree that powder seems to be made for the '06.

I've tried probably a dozen different powders in 06 and have never had anything come close to 4350. And in my gun it doesn't matter what bullet. 150, 165, 168, 180 4350 is best with them all.

I had a couple saved targets (lost in divorce) 3 shots 100 yards with I believe 165 gr Sierra's and 4350 that you could durn near cover with a nickel. Not bad IMHO for an unretouched factory 700.

But I have no experience with Garand so if it's not good for it I wouldn't mess with it.

 

[rockquarry]

About 20 years ago I found a sale on US 30-06 ammo, so I bought a couple cases. I have reloaded many of them but I still have an unused case. The ad said "non-corrosive", other wise I would have passed. The headstamp is SL52. Obviously they had been removed from belts.

This thread made me wonder, so I looked up the codes. Apparently, 52 was the transition. 53 was a safe bet. I have never noticed any issues, and I confess to not cleaning my guns the same day I shoot them.

I DO know how to clean up after using corrosive ammo. Other than rust, how can one tell if it is corrosive?

I have some GI .30-06 from the same era. I looked it up in "Cartridges of the World" and it should be non-corrosive, but I treat it as corrosive for cleaning purposes. I just clean the bore with water or Ballistol, and then do a regular cleaning with solvent.

I don't know how to tell if ammo has corrosive primers or not.