Lead fouling

Start with the obvious before making yourself crazy!

Barrel leading isn't a product of shooting lead but proper alloy, bullet to bore sizing and proper lube. But most of all start with a clean barrel! Hardware stores carry copper cloth similar to Chore Boy for cleaning. As mentioned wrap it around a brush and use with penetrating oil.

I've shot 10's of thousands of lead bullets in revolver competition and clean my barrels with a rolled up paper towel! And not until 250-300 rounds! I clean my cylinders with a course fiber brush purchased in a medical supply store. I clean cylinders at around 50 rounds, even during matches. Smooth reloads are a must!

I cast a NOE 135 grain, .358 LRNFP using reclaimed range lead at about 8-10 BHN. These are sized to .357 and I use a soft lube. I use this bullet in .357, 38Spl. 38 Super and 9mm at USPSA Minor velocities!

My 45 ACP 200 grain LSWC are sized to .452 with similar results.

It's very satisfying shooting and winning matches with my cast bullets. The real advantage is the ability to continue high volume shooting without regard to running out of bullets!

Smiles,
 
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A leaded barrel is the result of possible numerous problems . It can be brought on by poor lube , bullet size too small or too hard alloy . The internal dimensions of the revolver --- cylinder throats too small , a tight spot in the barrel where it threads onto the frame which down sizes the cast bullet before entering the barrel , a rough barrel internally , a tight spot where they " roll stamped " the side of the barrel etc. A leaded barrel is not caused by the lead bullet . It's just the end result of problems mentioned above . Powder coated bullets help but are not the total answer . Regards Paul
 
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I have been lead free since I started casting in the 90s. The correct lube has a lot to do with it. For pistol I use a soft lube. In my last batch of lube I added some Lees alox to the mix. I have a 900 degree pot and I was going to clean my mixing spoon that had Lees alox on it and it wouldn't melt. I don't like the alox for being messy but it works. Thanks for the photo.
 
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Strands of copper Chore Boy type pads wrapped around an old cleaning brush work really well. BUT....test the pads with a magnet to make sure that they are not Copper plated steel. I bought some off-brand pads that said pure copper but turned out to be magnetic!

I have used both the Lewis Lead Remover and the Core Boy method and found the Chore Boy method quite superior. One tip: use no solvent and use it in a perfectly dry bore. You will be amazed at the small pile of lead after a pass or two. I suppose using a lead solvent after the Chore Boy may remove any residual fouling.
 
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I know shooting a few jacketed bullets out of my 45 ACP gets any moderate amount of lead out every time. Has anyone tried this with revolvers.
 
If you're interested in the copper gauze method, and you like to buy in "bulk", look to Home Depot online. Bird B Gone Model# CMS-100 Copper Mesh 100 ft. Roll, (x 5 in. wide) $62.34. Beats competing with the crack-heads for the local supply of Chore-Boys, and no worries about any copper-plated steel substitutes. It IS configured a bit differently than Chore-Boys, but I find it easier to cut-to-suit, and to free up strands for wrapping around bore brushes or mops.
 
Chore Boy's website says it's sold locally at Winn-Dixie/Harvey's. Publix doesn't carry it.
 
The best bullet lube I've found is White Label brand Carnuba Red lube. It is low smoke and keeps the barrel very clean. I've shot 1000 rounds with that and still didn't have any leading.

The proper alloy lead and a polished, straight bore are always helpful.
 
Telecaster, have you considered fire lapping your bore?
Steve
 
rvolvr, Amazon has a 16ft roll of Bird B Gone copper mesh for $16.

Stu


To paraphrase Crocodile Dundee, "That's not bulk, THIS is Bulk!

It's like buying powder by the 1-lb can instead of an 8-lb jug.

The way I look at it is when my kids inherit my guns, even THEY won't have to buy any ChoreBoys. Lucky them!
 
Unjacketed lead bullets, ugh. I promise to clean the barrel more often! I have lead bullets because they were cheap, but when my 640's accuracy went south I figured it was time to clean it. Waaaay past time. This picture is after about 6 or 7 soakings with bore cleaner. It's soaking overnight now, slowly getting better.

How many rounds did it take to get that bad?

I shoot lead almost exclusively in all calibers. Never had such a problem. But, I do clean my handguns after most every outing...my revolvers especially. As a matter of fact, I run a bore brush with some Ballistol through them, and wipe them down before I leave the firing line. I do occasionally get a slight bit of leading, but a bore brush with the Chore Boy trick takes care of it quickly...if the brass jag and 2 or 3 patches didn't clean it.
 
The copper Chore Boy idea posted by Bib is a good one. The only problem is finding a true copper one. Most is copper plated. The copper stuff used to be found everywhere but now it hard to find except at gas station convenience stores near neighborhoods frequented by crack heads. The last one I got it at you had to ask for it because they keep it behind the counter as it tends to walk off.

I can't find them locally so I tried Amazon. I guess the crackheads buy it there too, with the Pyrex tubes :( :( :(
 

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I stopped using plain leadcast bullets with just the ring of bullet lube. I been using moly leadcast bullets. After shooting these I find very little to no leading. But I run a few rounds of jacketed to make sure the bore is clean. I purchased the moly spray can to coat my non coated bullets. I haven't tried it yet.

Do not wash the barrels when using moly. Just dry mop them. Washing the bores after moly removes the moly from the pores of the metal. This is why the moly coated rifle bullets never really caught on. The bore will be a light gray finish but it's clean. I been using moly since 1970. It smooths out rough actions and lessens trigger pull. Eliminates wear, reduces friction, prevents galling, doesn't attract dirt and fights corrosion.
 
The way to deal with heavy leading is prevention......properly sized to match cylinder throats.....using the right choice of alloy and lube for the intended muzzle velocity.


Maybe I'm just living in the past....

enjoy all the benefits of lead bullets.

I'm an oldster too, and I fully admit to living in the past.

When I was a poor college kid and couldn't afford store bought, I bought a box of .38 wadcutters with a reputable brand name. They leaded like I never saw before or since.

My next step was a $9 Lee mold, a Lyman cast boolet handbook and some lead from my Dad's shop. #2 alloy for many years.

Never leaded a barrel since and I cast for several magnum loads. All my rifles (8 different calibers) ALL shoot lead as well. The only difference is with those high velocities I also use gas checks.

If you have to buy finished boolets, be sure they are "hard cast".
 
"I know shooting a few jacketed bullets out of my 45 ACP gets any moderate amount of lead out every time. Has anyone tried this with revolvers."

Yes curious minds want to know. This is my preferred method in my 1911's

Yes. Regularly...every range session.
 
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