Leaky Toilet

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We noticed some water on our bathroom floor the other day. At first I thought I splashed some water around while shaving. My wife noticed that it seemed to be coming from under the toilet.
On December of last year we had just gotten a new toilet. Can't be the toilet.
We figured out that the wax ring was leaking.
On Tuesday, after a trip to the YMCA and while we were down out of the mountains and in town, we stopped at Lowe's to pick up a new wax ring.
Instead they had a newfangled silicone seal that's supposed to be far superior to the old fashioned wax ring.
Today we went to install it.

Keeping in mind that because of a peripheral motor nerve condition I have weakness in both of my hands. My right hand being nearly useless. My wife doesn't allow me to help wash the crockery because of this. We figured the toilet's like one big hunk of crockery and my wife'd havta do the lifting.
I'm glad she's a sturdy strong Italian.
I did the unbolting and disconnecting of the water supply and she yanked it up offa the floor.

In our bathroom the toilet's held down to the flange with lag bolts going into the floor rather than having studs coming up from the flange with a coupla nuts holding the toilet down.

We finally got it all lined up and bolted down.

So far the floor's still dry.

There is a town plumber that's very good and gets lotsa work. We thought we'd try to do the job ourselves first and save a few bucks on a service call.
 
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we needed a new toilet in one of the bathrooms and purchased one at Lowes.... the sales guy suggested a reinforced jumbo wax ring, got that too, lowes has installers that will pick up your purchase at the store, bring everything out to the house, haul away the old toilet, install the new one.....my kind of sales transaction...:)
 
No no problems with toilets here but I did have a leaky wall that just got fixed! Quality construction from 1996. Apparently they forgot or decided not to install underlayment between the plywood and the siding all the way down. Instead they just randomly put it on and at the top of the window..... instead of cutting off the extra they just folded it up and stapled, creating a nice pocket for water!!
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Then when the main windows got caulked we found this on the upstairs windows

Check out those gaps that were never sealed!!! I can put my pinky all the way through those gaps

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Biggest mistake you can make is use the wax ring and the
hardware pack that comes with new toilet kits. The wax ring is
of poor quality and bolts, both T & tank are plated steel. After
a short period of time they will rust and are a major job to get
out later for repairs. The better wax rings are messy because
they are good wax. I always use the oversize wax ring, the
Mucho Grande size. I also buy brass Tbolts & tank bolts. If you
have broken flange and have to use the lag type studs instead
of T bolts thet sell a flange repair that is a heavy stamping.
Costs $10. It allows you to screw it to floor with at least 4
Screws( that get you away from soft wood caused by leaking
wax ring and permits you to use Tbolts. If toilet isn't on flat
even surface it will eventually leak even if put in tight. If you
have this problem they sell plastic wedge shims to level them
out. I find the waxless seal really works well if you have a
very solid drain and solid level floor.
 
Good thread.
Been putting off swapping the thrones because while no leakage
the studs from the floor to the base are iffy. Also the reduced flush
now sold makes me hesitate... short run but old iron pipe.
 
Good thread.
Been putting off swapping the thrones because while no leakage
the studs from the floor to the base are iffy. Also the reduced flush
now sold makes me hesitate... short run but old iron pipe.

If you have a short run cut off cast iron and go plastic. You can
use a Fernco adapter to make transition. They sell the "tall boys"
now that will flush a bucket of golf balls. $200 range for good
ones.
 
Just finished (last week) the first of three bathroom remodels (main bath). We replaced the toilet with a Jacuzzi brand (higher & elongated)== the guy at Lowe's told us to use two wax rings because of the design. Not a problem. Also, new piping for shower, tiled floor and shower walls, wainscoting, etc.

The basement bathroom had puddled water but the gasket between tank and bowl was leaking. We turned the water off as we were planning on replacing the toilet (using the master bath toilet from upstairs). Everything fine for two weeks=then 1/2 inch of water. Called a plumber and he found it was the kitchen sink drain (50 year old iron pipes) had rusted out and leaked downstairs. Then the main bath plugged up!

As of yesterday, everything is "OK". Get the shower curtain up in the main bath and I can start demo in the master bath this weekend. Plumber will install a new walk-in shower just before Thanksgiving, then drywall repair, paint and tile. Then new wood floor in master bedroom and I'll tackle the downstairs bath.

All this so I can retire in a couple of years (if the house doesn't kill me first!).

BTW: I have found the way to do plumbing is one piece at a time! Install a piece, go to Lowe's/HD for the next part, repeat as needed.

The guys at Lowe's always know when I'm doing plumbing==I come in every hour or so, all day!
 
Last edited:
Biggest mistake you can make is use the wax ring and the
hardware pack that comes with new toilet kits. The wax ring is
of poor quality and bolts, both T & tank are plated steel. After
a short period of time they will rust and are a major job to get
out later for repairs. The better wax rings are messy because
they are good wax. I always use the oversize wax ring, the
Mucho Grande size. I also buy brass Tbolts & tank bolts. If you
have broken flange and have to use the lag type studs instead
of T bolts thet sell a flange repair that is a heavy stamping.
Costs $10. It allows you to screw it to floor with at least 4
Screws( that get you away from soft wood caused by leaking
wax ring and permits you to use Tbolts. If toilet isn't on flat
even surface it will eventually leak even if put in tight. If you
have this problem they sell plastic wedge shims to level them
out. I find the waxless seal really works well if you have a
very solid drain and solid level floor.
I'm thinkin' that if we ever need to move that toilet again, I'll get one of those flange repair kits.
Now that I know what's under there, I'll have a better idea of what I'll need to repair it.
 
Good thread.
Been putting off swapping the thrones because while no leakage
the studs from the floor to the base are iffy. Also the reduced flush
now sold makes me hesitate... short run but old iron pipe.
On our new toilet, one quick push gives a low volume flush and holding the lever down empties the tank and it takes a good big swallow.
 
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