Lee Adjustable Charge Bar

[rakysk]

Thinking about purchasing Lee Adjustable Charge Bar. I'm reloading 38 special with Titegroup. Does anybody have experience with this product?

 

[tomf52]

It works well with charges above 3.5 gr. Anything lower and it's useless.

 

[noylj]

My two aren't even consistent at 4.0gn and above.
The ACB hole at lower settings doesn't even "see" the hopper hole/chute, so no powder can drop. At higher settings, it depends on how well the powder fills the front of the cavity.
If I had a load that wasn't met by one of the cavities, I would adjust the next smaller cavity. However, accuracy is generally over a range and the cavities meet this range for all my loads. If one simply must play the Power Factor game to the last few fps, then more adjustment would be needed.

 

[fatman73]

Pm your address and I'll send you one. I don't use it. I've tried it but I get more consistent drops with the discs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tlay]

I have one and quit using it. If you load a small amount it bridges up and you can get very low loads. Anything above 3.5 grs. seems to work o.k.

 

[rakysk]

Thanks for all helpful info. I'll stick with micro disk.

 

[DaSandmanCometh]

Get a hornady perfect powder measure, it works much better than anything Lee has. I use one on my loadmaster and it works great. You don't loose hardly any powder with it. I lost so much with the micro-disk even with the adjustable bar installed.

 

[pickupman250]

I have the same problems as the rest I bought one tried to get it to work with several loads ranging from 4.8gn to 29gn. it is so inconsistent I put it on the self.i will be taking it to the range and setting it up at the 300yd line

 

[Rule3]

Don't use either of them. The bar or Tite Group!

 

[dickttx]

As with the regular disk, the hole in the ACB must be lined up with the hole in the bottom of the hopper when the ram is down and lined up with the hole in the drop tube when the ram is up, in order to obtain consistent charges. This is adjusted by screwing the powder die in or out in the turret.
When adjusted as above I have obtained the same consistency with the ACB as with the disk, which is boringly consistent. With a small charge, however, it is harder to do this alignment.
If you have the Micro disk I would certainly use that though. Those things are very scarce and are not made anymore.

 

[tomf52]

Dickttx said - This is adjusted by screwing the powder die in or out in the turret.

How do you scrrew the powder die in and out without affecting case mouth flair?

 

[tlay]

Yes, I am lost on that one also. How do you move a die back and forth?

 

[MrOldtimer]

Nice idea just does not measure consistently. Also does not work with fine powders.

 

[Cdog]

I don't use titegroup, but I have a couple of the adjustable charge bars that work great for me.

I own several Pro Auto Disk measures that I leave setup for particular loads. The adjustable charge bars are as handy as a shirt pocket.

 

[dickttx]

Dickttx said - This is adjusted by screwing the powder die in or out in the turret.

How do you scrrew the powder die in and out without affecting case mouth flair?

That was my first thought when I first discovered this. However, on all the calibers I load the flare is good when the die is adjusted so. If it is not adjusted then there is a shelf either when the hole is filled or dumped and you will not get consistent drops.
Consistent drops is the aim and the flare is secondary.

 

[GBertolet]

I have a Lee disk powder measure that I adapted to my RCBS Green Machine. I purchased the adjustable measure as an accessory with it. The adjustable measure has a long narrow metering slit for the powder to drop into. I experienced powder bridging with smaller powder charges, especially the flake powders, such as Clays, because of this design. I had squibs using both Clays and Bullseye in the 45 ACP. I went back to the fixed disks.

I believe if fine grained ball powders were being used, that would be unlikely to bridge, or you were using larger charges of powder for the 357 or 44 magnums, it should work satisfactory, as the charge bar would be opened up considerable more, and powder bridging would be unlikely.

A good practice if you are single stage reloading, is after charging your cases, hold the loading block under the light, and examine each case for powder level. If one looks different, dump the powder and recharge it.

 

[RacinbobSW]

I started out with the Pro Auto and had several adjustable charge bars. They worked great for me but I only used Bullseye and W231/HP38 so that could be why.

 

[Rockets]

I've tried it but I get more consistent drops with the discs.

Same here.

 

[Rule3]

There is a very easy modification that can be done to the regular disks.

All it involves in threading a screw into the side of the disc hole and turning it in or out to change the volume.

A good description is on another forum but I don't think I can link to it.

 

[Rockets]

Get a hornady perfect powder measure, it works much better than anything Lee has. I use one on my loadmaster and it works great. You don't loose hardly any powder with it. I lost so much with the micro-disk even with the adjustable bar installed.

Anyone tried it with the turret classic ? I was thinking about getting one...

There is a very easy modification that can be done to the regular disks.

All it involves in threading a screw into the side of the disc hole and turning it in or out to change the volume.

A good description is on another forum but I don't think I can link to it.

Let us know when and if you find it.