Lee Factory resizer/crimp die

[mnhntr]

Is this neccesary as they claim for reliable feeding? If so why bother with the seating crimp die they give you in the 3-die set? I just bought a set of .45acp Lee carbide die and in the literature it says for reliable feeding buy the optional Factory Resize/Crimp die.

 

[arkdweller22]

I've never had to use it on any straight wall calibers.
Where the "factory" crimp die is useful, to me at least, is with the bottleneck cartridges.

I ruined several pieces of 6.8 SPC brass with the regular seating crimp die. After switching to the "factory" crimp die, issue solved.

If you're only loading straight wall brass you probably wont need it.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Arkdweller

 

[OKFC05]

If the loaded cartridge goes into a cartridge gauge, the you don't need the Lee FCD.
If the loaded cartridge wil NOT go into a cartridge gauge, then you either run it through the FCD or dismantle the cartridge. Your choice.

If you reload "range trash brass" you will find some loaded cartridges will not go into a cartridge gauge, or your gun chamber.

 

[Rule3]

I use one on my semi auto ammo mainly to apply a light taper crimp. I do not use it on my revolver ammo. I do not mind the extra step but I do not put every round in a cartridge guage.

 

[snw19_357]

I've been reloading 20+ years, rifle and pistol without them. They're not absolutely necessary.

But, I sure wish I had know about them back then. I don't use them on my 9mm, .38 wadcutters, or .40 but man do they make a difference with rifle, .357 magnum, and .41 magnum! I'll never load another without running them through a Lee factory crip die after.

They're almost a must if you're loading bullets w/o a cannelure in a magnum. Talk about improving accuracy and consistant load ignition!

 

[flop-shank]

It just seems logical to me that crimping should not occur while the bullet is being seated. The FCD makes a better crimp IMO.

 

[shovelwrench]

It just seems logical to me that crimping should not occur while the bullet is being seated. The FCD makes a better crimp IMO.

+1
I've also heard you can remove the carbide ring in the factory crimp die, then it only crimps.

Then again, I have'nt seen any negative results using it as is.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

This is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
I was shooting IDPA with 9mm and having
trouble with my gun. This went on for several
matches and a couple of guys kept telling me
to get a Lee Factory Crimp die. Finally I said to
myself I will try it, for twenty dollars why not.
What a difference no more problems. If you
set a bullet in a little crooked and it makes
a bulge in the case, the factory die will take
it out. You don't need it on every round. Also
I like to taper crimp with a separate die. Now
I use them with all my pistol loads. It's less
than $20 bucks, cheap insurance. Don

 

[Amici]

Another satisfied Lee FCD user. I have them on my .38 Super, .40 and .45 ACP tool heads and have far less feeding problems.

 

[NFrameFred]

Not absolutely necessary but handy on many cartridges.

I've always thought that crimping a cartridge case while the bullet is being seated was a pi$$-poor way of doing it. Yeah, it works (sorta) and I know guys that have "done it that way for years and my loads shoot just fine" . . . but unless you're using the lightest of crimps at the very end of the stroke, and if (big "IF") all your brass is the same length ( usually not unless you're anal enough to trim pistol cases every time you load) then it is inevitable that you're gonna get some bullet deformation and scraping off material from the side of the bullet or not get a crimp on short case.

A slight to moderate taper crimp on all handgun rounds has served me well for years, and since I bought the first Lee factory crimp die for a rifle I've never used anything else for bottle necked cases. It works. Better than anything else.

 

[shovelwrench]

Not absolutely necessary but handy on many cartridges.

I've always thought that crimping a cartridge case while the bullet is being seated was a pi$$-poor way of doing it. Yeah, it works (sorta) and I know guys that have "done it that way for years and my loads shoot just fine" . . . but unless you're using the lightest of crimps at the very end of the stroke, and if (big "IF") all your brass is the same length ( usually not unless you're anal enough to trim pistol cases every time you load) then it is inevitable that you're gonna get some bullet deformation and scraping off material from the side of the bullet or not get a crimp on short case.

A slight to moderate taper crimp on all handgun rounds has served me well for years, and since I bought the first Lee factory crimp die for a rifle I've never used anything else for bottle necked cases. It works. Better than anything else.

BIG +1

I tried and tried with the crimper/seater, you just can't get consistent OAL or crimp, period.

And with rifles, oh how the groups pull together when your neck sizing and LFCing them.

 

[mnhntr]

Thanks guys I am ordering one

 

[oldRoger]

I use the taper crimp and factory crimp dies and I agree they are a great invention.

Obviously you can reload without them, billions and billions of rounds have been crimped with 3 die sets.
I usually set my seating die so the crimp ring will just straighten out any mouth belling.

The set-up is much easier with separate crimp dies and IMO the result is better.

 

[Beemer-mark]

First time for everything..

I've been reloading 20+ years, rifle and pistol without them. They're not absolutely necessary.

I've been reloading for over ten years and mostly 45 acp. I recently bought a few thousand 230 gn LRN bullets from a very reliable source that I always use and found none of the 500 loaded would chamber. Drove me nuts. Measured the bullet, the case, etc,etc. Thinking my carbide dies might be worn I tried seating some jacketed bullets - no problem. Thinking it might have something to do with the lead I tried some 255 gn LRN that I bought at the same time from the same supplier - no problem.

Ended up buying the taper and running them all thru that. What a pain.

 

[geoff40]

This is interesting, I just started using one in 223 caliber. Like 3 weeks ago. As I look down into it, the seated bullet/round comes up just a bit off center, then is guided to center by the die just before the crimp is applied. l like the crimp, a lot actually, but I am wondering if the die I have is defective.

 

[ambassador]

I have been using the Lee FCD from my first .380ACP reloads,never a failure to feed.Example of finished rounds,95GRN mAGTECH fmj.

 

[Vulcan Bob]

I really like it with the .357 Mag. I like to run a heavy crimp and it's a lot easyier with the Lee.

 

[Glock17]

Lee FC Die

HAWKEYE10 +1 on the Lee Factory Crimp Die, it's the only way to go !!!! I've been using them for 5yrs !!!!!

 

[Smitty500Mag]

I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on everything I load except for the .50AE and that's because they don't make one for it.

Besides post sizing a cartridge the next best thing I like about the LFC Die is that it will make a cannelure (crimp ring) in bullets that don't have one. That makes it nice to be able to use .50AE bullets in the 500 Mag that are quite a bit cheaper than bullets made for the 500 Mag with a cannelure.

Then another plus with the LFC Die is you can't crush a cartridge with it. Thin wall bottle neck cartridges like the .38-40 (.38 WCF), I used to crunch a bunch of them with a regular crimp die and that brass is not exactly cheap.

Smitty

 

[RCleveland44]

Lee Factory resizer/crimp die.

In my experience; great for thin walled cases that tend to buckle like the 38 and 44/40's and the .22 hornet.