Letter Coloring Question

I really like the idea of the Elmer's Painters. Besides, I just discovered my daughter (7) has a whole stinkin' set of'em. :D

What scares me to death is the post about the "cloud effect" above. It's the little things. It would break my heart if I screwed this up. Has anybody found anything that's safe to remove the Elmer's paint from polymers like the lower on the 15/22? If not, what do you use on the lower of the 15/22 to clean it up?

Brake cleaner is pretty harsh stuff (I was raised in my daddy's professional garage.). Not as bad as carb cleaner, but once you've swiped it on, the damage is done and it's too late!

Ever seen what Goo-Gone does to some plastics? NOT pretty.

I am into this and want to do it badly. I just want to be sure I can clean it up safely. Measure twice and cut once. Just want to make sure I do it right the first time. Lowers ain't as cheap as they once were and they're damn sure not as easy to FIND!

Any suggestions?

Dikinalaska? Really need some self-assurance here! :)

Thanks!

Like I said Mineral Oil...safe and effective.
 
I'm done. The white came out very nice for the symbol and safe but the fire in red did not. Note: Don't use $1 store crayons. They crumbled like paper.

It will work better if you put a layer of white in before the red. Learned the hard way. :)
 
It will work better if you put a layer of white in before the red. Learned the hard way. :)

I wonder if that helps when you use something like the Elmer's pens. Probably not, since it's supposedly opaque but I know we use to do that to a lot of things we painted at the shop to make the paint stand out even better.

Always better to have a white base, generally speaking.

Anybody know on the pens for sure?
 
I wonder if that helps when you use something like the Elmer's pens. Probably not, since it's supposedly opaque but I know we use to do that to a lot of things we painted at the shop to make the paint stand out even better.

Always better to have a white base, generally speaking.

Anybody know on the pens for sure?

It'll be a couple weeks before I get back home to try white under a color, but the final orange color I used on my 15-22 was identical in shade (at least as far as I can tell) as it is on the white towels I cleaned it up with and I don't think the pink could be any brighter on the Shield, it dried the exact color of the tip of the pen it came out of.
 
What is the technique used with the Elmers pens? Do you use a fine tip and stay in groove, or do you expect/plan to wipe off over flow with a solvent (brake cleaner, WD-40, etc...).
 
What is the technique used with the Elmers pens? Do you use a fine tip and stay in groove, or do you expect/plan to wipe off over flow with a solvent (brake cleaner, WD-40, etc...).

Good question.

Picked up some Sharpie Painters (Fine tip) this morning. No Elmer's at Staples. Figured bird in the hand thing. I'm going to Hobby Lobby at lunch to look the Elmer's but my initial thinking is that it's just a waste of time and money. The Sharpies are Acrylic Enamel so they should be fine anyway.

I think I'm being way too nervous about this. You'd think I was getting ready to paint the ceiling at the Sistine Chapel. :D
 
I hold a lighter to the crayon for just a second to get it tacky then rub it into the the letters at an angle (like grouting tile).


I didn't put white in "FIRE" before the red and it turned out great. The crayons I used were older than I am, so that might have made a difference.
 
What is the technique used with the Elmers pens? Do you use a fine tip and stay in groove, or do you expect/plan to wipe off over flow with a solvent (brake cleaner, WD-40, etc...).

If you don't mind waiting a couple weeks I'll do a video on it, it's really not hard. Good prep work is key. Clean the lettering and surrounding area very well. I cleaned it as usual, than used a q-tip and a little rubbing alcohol just to make sure I got all the oils and such. What I did was apply the paint liberally to the lettering, making sure to kind of push the tip into the lettering, and kept tapping it just to help get everything settled and the bubbles out. I let it dry for about 2-3 minutes, with the overage and all. In my experience if I tried to clean the excess while it was wet it just smeared making more mess. So I let the top layer harden I tiny bit than rub over it lightly with a q-tip with brake cleaner on it. Once you see the paint start to smear instead of just remove, stop for a minute and let it dry a little more. Than go back over it again with a new q-tip/brake clean. Repeat these two steps until only the lettering is left and voila! I tried cleaning the excess while it was wet and ended up with the cloud(see XD). This is just what worked for me and others have had better luck with other methods. Best suggestion I have is try on something not important to you. I can't think of anything poly off hand that would be comparable to the lower to try on, but I honestly don't think material matters. It's technique and timing if you're going to use my method and let it dry. Any other specific questions about any of the steps that I can help clear up let me know and I'll try and help.
 
Folks,

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH BRAKE CLEANER ON POLYMER!

There are two different kinds, one chlorinated and one not. There have been reports of both damaging polymer and both not damaging polymer. I know, conflicting reports, but this IS the Internet. :)

Considering the cost of a can of polymer-safe GunScrubber, why risk damaging your firearm with brake cleaner to save a couple of dollars?
 
Folks,

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH BRAKE CLEANER ON POLYMER!

There are two different kinds, one chlorinated and one not. There have been reports of both damaging polymer and both not damaging polymer. I know, conflicting reports, but this IS the Internet. :)

Considering the cost of a can of polymer-safe GunScrubber, why risk damaging your firearm with brake cleaner to save a couple of dollars?

I would actually suggest this as well. I feel 100% confident that I didn't do any damage to mine. I'm not a scientist or anything and couldn't say anything about actual degradation from this, but as far as I can tell, nothing was harmed. The ONLY reason I suggest using something like the GunScrubber is because I was very very conservative on how I used the brake clean and others might be a little more liberal in their application. I tried a couple other things that didn't work as well is why I ended up at the brake cleaner. As many have said, there is a POSSIBILITY of adverse effects, but I haven't noticed one. I know I'm conflicting on my suggesting the brake clean, than the GunScrubber or the like, so to sum it up- I think the brake cleaner worked just fine with no adverse effects, but would feel horrible if I told someone else to do it and they ruined something. If you use it, use it as an aid to elbow grease, not a primary. And if you're worried about it, try using it on an area that isn't critical of function or can be seen, than the worst that happens is you have a little spot that only you know about.
 
Do the S&W logo on the mags to practice on and prefect your technique. I've seen some people number their mags so instead of doing that I used different colors in the mag logos before I ever tried coloring on the lower.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Telling you guys..Try black!

I decided to take your suggestion and do some BLACK on my grip. I used automobile wheel spray paint and a syringe. Sprayed into a plastic container, sucked it up into the syringe and surgically filled it in. (Before anyone says anything about the lettering looking less than sharp, that's the way the engraving is.) Turned out pretty well! :D
Before and after pics.

20121206_130248.jpg


20130206_133833_zpsa0b9936a.jpg


20130206_133851_zpseec282f0.jpg
 
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JZ,

Like the MOE grip... who carved the symbol.??? do they make it in OD Green.??? Your paint fill-in looks great.!!!
Only one problem, the crosshairs in the WRONG location... everybody should know, you can only kill Zombies with a headshot.!!!!

Paul
 
I decided to take your suggestion. I used automobile wheel spray paint and a syringe. Sprayed into a plastic container, sucked it up into the syringe and surgically filled it in. (Before anyone says anything about the lettering looking less than sharp, that's the way the engraving is.) Turned out pretty well! :D
Before and after pics.

20121206_130248.jpg


20130206_133833_zpsa0b9936a.jpg


20130206_133851_zpseec282f0.jpg


Good job, but I can still see some "ghosting" around the lettering( in particular around the safe, fire area).. Most likely from the wipe off process..Digital cams pick up on all the imperfections...
 
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JZ,

Like the MOE grip... who carved the symbol.??? do they make it in OD Green.??? Your paint fill-in looks great.!!!
Only one problem, the crosshairs in the WRONG location... everybody should know, you can only kill Zombies with a headshot.!!!!

Paul


Thanks Paul. It was done by NDZ, $35.99. Only have black and FDE though. I'm sure you could RIT Dye the FDE to be OD green though.

Magpul MOE Pistol Grip MAG415 Zombie Hunter
 
Good job, but I can still see some "ghosting" around the lettering( in particular around the safe, fire area).. Most likely from the wipe off process..Digital cams pick up on all the imperfections...

Yeah, that part has since been cleaned up. With the grip, it was hard to push the syringe plunger and move the needle where I needed it at the same time. I'll be taking care of that little bit of "ghosting" shortly. :D
 
I may be blind, but what is this ghosting you speak of?
 
I used the Testors model paint. I have done 6 guns so far. Here us what I have learned.

1- Clean the area well.
2- Cover the entire lettering area. It will look like a paint stripe on the gun.
3- Use a hair dryer to fully dry the paint. Also helps to completely fill the engraving.
4- Only do one color at a time. If you do 2 at once they have a tendency to bleed into each other. Do one, wait til fully dry and complete, then do other.
5- Once paint is dry use a white lint free cloth to wipe off excess. I have used gun cleaning patches with good success. Make sure the cloth is stretched tight on your finger. Wet it with CLP. Work back and forth over the paint with constant pressure. It will take a while but will start to come off. Rotate to a clean spot on the cloth and apply more CLP frequently. Once it starts coming off it goes pretty quick. Wipe with a clean dry cloth several times throughout the process.
6- Once cleaned up, hit it again with the blow dryer. Helps to really set the paint in the engraving.

Works and looks great. Way more durable than crayons.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360184638.101582.jpg
 
I may be blind, but what is this ghosting you speak of?

He was referring to the smudging on my top pic from when I first colored my SAFE and FIRE. I was referring to the MOE grip, the last pic, between the HUNTER and the scope part, there is a tiny bit of black there from when I slipped.
 
Thanks Paul. It was done by NDZ, $35.99. Only have black and FDE though. I'm sure you could RIT Dye the FDE to be OD green though.

Magpul MOE Pistol Grip MAG415 Zombie Hunter

The guys at NDZ couldn't get enough praise from me. GREAT guys. You could definitely dye the FDE, but trying to match the OD might get real tricky. You might try contacting them and see if they can get one in OD for you or if you had one in OD if you could send it to them and they could engrave it for you.
 
I use liquid "white out" for the S&W logos. Apply with the little brush applicator and wipe excess off with your thumb. It's held up beautifully on my revolvers for 33 years.
 
I used white automotive touchup paint on mine. Put it on with a small brush and wiped off the excess.
 
Juezahn...I saw your ghosting and have the same issue. Now that the paint has dried, what's your method to cleaning the ghosting area up?
 
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