mgriffin
Member
Ordering a new leather holster for my Sig P365. Does anyone ever line a holster for a polymer pistol? Waste of money? Or, better for ease of draw? Looking for opinions...
Line holster for polymer pistol?
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rednichols
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Of course they would. And without thinking about it. When the main body of the holster is made of smooth-backed leather the lining isn't necessary for any pistol but it was Neale Perkins at Safariland in the late 1960s began popularizing the idea that it was desireable to have a lining. So they are included only to keep the market happy.
That said, what will benefit you most is a well-detailed moulding in a leather holster. There is a misconception that molding is for retention; when there's nothing quite like an unmolded holster to grip your pistol well! Instead the molding is, and always has been, to keep the holster from rubbing on the high spots of the pistol.
Here's what an unmolded leather holster did to one of Tom Threepersons' blued revolvers:
It's old but of course wasn't carried its entire life in a holster.
That said, what will benefit you most is a well-detailed moulding in a leather holster. There is a misconception that molding is for retention; when there's nothing quite like an unmolded holster to grip your pistol well! Instead the molding is, and always has been, to keep the holster from rubbing on the high spots of the pistol.
Here's what an unmolded leather holster did to one of Tom Threepersons' blued revolvers:
It's old but of course wasn't carried its entire life in a holster.
OP
mgriffin
Member
To be honest, I don't really see the need for a lined holster for a polymer gun. Its not like its Kydex marring the finish of a blued pistol....Its polymer...was just thinking that maybe the draw would be smoother.
Gene L
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I'd see a few things that would turn me off. First is the felt lining could hold abrasives like sand and produce wear on the slide. Then, you insert a cloth lining inside any well-fitting holster, it will take up space and probably not fit the gun well.
And third, I wouldn't because I don't see any advantage with polymer frames and SS slides, which are in many cases (most?) coated with an exterior finish, which is very tough.
And third, I wouldn't because I don't see any advantage with polymer frames and SS slides, which are in many cases (most?) coated with an exterior finish, which is very tough.
rednichols
Member
Linings in modern (that is, post 1950) holsters are sueded leather not cloth. And the 'attracts dirt and moisture' is an old-wive's tale, millions have been made and with the 'evil' chrome tanned split leather to boot. And the lining is laminated into the holster at the outset, and the holster formed to the pistol afterwards. Linings of that type do interfere with a close fitting result but lining leather can be chosen that's is well-suited to the task; Brills of old were lined with a thin, veg-tanned calfskin. So, for over 100 years and ticking.
bamabiker
Member
I made a IWB holster for mine and turned the smooth side of the leather to the inside. I think the rough side out helps it stay where I want it but I'm just an amateur so what do I know. It's in my pants so no body sees it any way.
I'm not sure if you're looking for a lined holster or not, but the Israeli holster company, Front Line, makes kydex holsters with suede lining. I have a couple for revolvers. Well-made as you'd expect for the price (typically $50-60.) I got mine from Ebay.
I've always preferred lining, primarily because I just like them. I used to buy them exclusively, but not so much any more because of the price - in the old days, it was maybe a $5 option while now it's $20 or more. Holsters are expensive enough without the frills, unfortunately.
I've always preferred lining, primarily because I just like them. I used to buy them exclusively, but not so much any more because of the price - in the old days, it was maybe a $5 option while now it's $20 or more. Holsters are expensive enough without the frills, unfortunately.
rednichols
Member
Indeed IWBs are made with the leather reversed, to place the grain side of the leather next to the pistol. It's another old wives' tale spread by Bruce Nelson and then Milt Sparks, that the rough-out leather keeps the pistol in position inside the waistband. It's not one that needs to be perpetuated into today because both Bruce, and Milt, and their successors knew no more about gunleather at their deaths in the '90s than Bruce had learned in the '60s -- from the '50s.
Instead Milt found he had to add a second strap to Bruce's Summer Special, to keep the pistol upright:
rednichols
Member
As Bill Rogers tells it in his interviews, because he did not invent Kydex holsters but instead a laminating process for the suede to the Kydex; the FBI insisted on the lining to eliminate the noise, and the wear on the revolvers of the era. Get rid of those two problems, the FBI told him, and you've got yourself a contract.
Gabby-Bill
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I've built holsters that way too and it effectively makes a "lined" holster of it. Another benefit is with the rough side out, you don't have to worry about scratching it up. I used mine on a Ruger single six and made it similar to a cavalry holster with a flap that I closed with a large snap. I lived in AZ back then and dealt with a lot of brush out in the hills, and never got a scratch of any kind on the gun. When the holster got to looking grimy or dirty , all I did was use a steel wire brush on it and it looked like new again.
Another type of holster lining was with fine goat skin, of garment thickness (very thin) glued hair side in, with contact glue to the rough side before sewing and boning, which is what shaping of damp leather is called when you shape the leather to the gun.
The hair side in lining doesn't hold dirt the way suede can or any other fabric or cloth lining, and I don't ever recall seeing a QUALITY holster made with anything other than goat skin buckskin or suede linings
If you want a fancy carved holster it is often difficult to have it shaped to the gun because the boning process would destroy the carving, I've been able to shape it with my bare hands when wet, but unless you have really powerful hands you can't get a detailed shaping that way, and again you run the risk of destroying the carving. I usually left my holsters plain when I was going to do a detailed boning of a holster, and for the most part that is what I've seen on the net as well.
One last edit, the lined holsters I built were for blued steel primarily , and I don't think the "Plastic" guns with the protected SS slides need that kind of protection, I don't plan to build mine with a lining, but I probably will make them rough side out because I've found the rough leather does grip my clothing and tend to stay put better! Almost too much better. LOL
I like the looks of the 2 strap IWB holster shown above!
Gabby
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