Normally the erratic velocity is above and below the book loads. The laws of physics dictates that more pressure will give more velocity. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Erratic velocity means erratic pressures, which indicates a problem, all the more reason to use a chronograph.
Well, pressure doesn't create velocity, pressure over time does. You can have a high-pressure load with a fast-burning powder that generates less velocity than a lower-pressure load with a slower-burning powder.
The rest, you're agreeing with me. I'm not saying chronographs are dumb. I'm saying that it's dumb to load over max because your chrono results were lower than the book velocity for a load.
Perhaps you meant to say more or less the same thing, except whenever one starts mentioning "pressure = velocity", it's possible to interpret that as a license to go hog-wild if your gun doesn't duplicate the rather optimistic velocities listed in manuals.
Blued Steel said:
What is a good reason to start shoveling powder in?
There really isn't one.
If the book says 15 grains at 1200 FPS, and without pressure signs I am getting 1400 FPS, should I be backing off? If I am getting 1000, is it not safe to up my charge?
If the book says 1200, and you're getting 1400, I'd be shocked. In fact, my first order of business would be to pull and weigh my bullets, verify the powder charge I'd dropped, and then check that my scale was working properly.
If the book says 1200 is the max, and you're getting 1000, no, it's not safe to continue. Your gun isn't going to explode if you go .1 grain over, but there's no percentage in pushing things, and the fact of the matter is that you really have no idea what's going on in the chamber.
What is a good approach to loading "off the books", and basing the charge on velocity?
I don't think there's any point to it unless you're in a few very specific forms of competition--and even then, I think those instances have been corrected-out by rules changes. There are so many cartridges and powders available, there's no sense pushing it. Another 100 or 150 fps isn't going to solve any real-world problems. I'd pick a different cartridge--either .41 or .44 Magnum, or .357 Remington Maximum.
Is there a method? Sure. Do I know it? You bet. Am I going to tell you how to do it? Christ, no. To be frank, the questions you're asking frighten me. Somebody mentioned to you something about loading based on velocity, and you've extrapolated that in
entirely the wrong direction. You simply can't start exceeding book values until you correct that.
What velocity in a 357 is starting to get questionable? (low or high) For simplicity, base it off a 158 gr bullet.
Velocity isn't your limiting factor, erratic powder behavior is. I bet that I could blow up a gun with an overly-fast powder before I hit the maximum velocities achievable with a slower powder. And I can blow up a gun by jamming the bullet deep-enough into the case to spike pressures.
And I can blow up a gun by loading it too long and jamming the bullet into the rifling. Similarly, just because I can hit X fps in my 6" 686, doesn't mean your 6" 686 will produce the same velocities. Even if we happened to have consecutive serial numbers.
Velocity means nothing.
Average velocity means nothing. The relative consistency of five or even better, ten rounds means a lot.
The path you're asking about is dangerous, especially when you get into .44 Magnum. Things go very wrong very quickly when you get into big-bore Magnums.