When I shoot my 45acp S&W Revolver I of course need to load the rounds in either half or full moon clips. The problem is that it is hard to insert the bullets into the cylinder when using 200gr LSWC rounds. The ridge or shoulder on the bullets slows the process down. Round nose bullets work fine,but I like the LSWC bullet. I have been thinking about trying the 185GR LSWC to see if they fit easier. Any ideas? Iam presently using Oregon Trail laser cast bullets.
Loading problem 45acp Smith Revolver
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When I shoot my 45acp S&W Revolver I of course need to load the rounds in either half or full moon clips. The problem is that it is hard to insert the bullets into the cylinder when using 200gr LSWC rounds. The ridge or shoulder on the bullets slows the process down. Round nose bullets work fine,but I like the LSWC bullet. I have been thinking about trying the 185GR LSWC to see if they fit easier. Any ideas? Iam presently using Oregon Trail laser cast bullets.
canoeguy
US Veteran
Try experimenting with your seating depth, maybe you need to seat the bullet just a little deeper...
I had a similar problem loading 230 grain cast lead round nose in auto rim cases for a 1917 revolver, this was solved by seating the bullet a little longer than you would seat bullets for a 1911. In that situation, I think as the bullet was seated deeper in the case, case diameter got greater, causing the cartridges to be hard to seat, and actually caused binding as the cylinder rotated.
I also wound up using more crimp on my .45 ACP cases for that revolver than I would for cartridges used in 1911.
Those two factors, seating depth and crimp, resolved my issues.
I had a similar problem loading 230 grain cast lead round nose in auto rim cases for a 1917 revolver, this was solved by seating the bullet a little longer than you would seat bullets for a 1911. In that situation, I think as the bullet was seated deeper in the case, case diameter got greater, causing the cartridges to be hard to seat, and actually caused binding as the cylinder rotated.
I also wound up using more crimp on my .45 ACP cases for that revolver than I would for cartridges used in 1911.
Those two factors, seating depth and crimp, resolved my issues.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
Many action pistol shooters use LSWC type bullets. One thing that will aid in the reloading process is to have your chambers chamfered. It doesn't take much. Not near as much as the M627PC has!
The other thing is to set the bullet no more than 1/32" outside of the case.
Here is a picture of some of mine:
You can go deeper if you want. Just don't use a maximum load and shove the bullet all of the way in. Go back to the minimum charge and seat the bullet deeper. Run them over the chronograph and work from there.
FWIW
The other thing is to set the bullet no more than 1/32" outside of the case.
Here is a picture of some of mine:
You can go deeper if you want. Just don't use a maximum load and shove the bullet all of the way in. Go back to the minimum charge and seat the bullet deeper. Run them over the chronograph and work from there.
FWIW
Can't you get some 45 auto rim brass and then not deal with the moon clips? I have a heirloom 1917 revolver that I shot once just to try it and those moon clips would drive me nuts.
Just a thought unless you are speed loading.
Just a thought unless you are speed loading.
Thanks guys:My current reloads measure out to OAL 1.250 TO 1.255 [I dont trim cases] with a dia on the crimped end of.469. I could reduce the OAL but would the loads work in my 1911s? The 45 auto rim cases sound interesting but I know little about them. The powder I use is W231 4.5 GR.
If they are 200gr cast lswc per Hodgdon the col is 1.225". Any longer and they may not feed in your 1911. Load a few dummy rounds to see if the chamber. And how do I know this you ask? Please don't.
The 45 auto rim are the same just bigger rims so you eject them just like a revolver cartridge and no pesky moon clips.
Amici
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I stopped using SWC bullets because they don't work well if you need to reload a revolver under time. That shoulder will kill you every time, although chamfering the chambers will help.
I went to RNFP bullets and never looked back. They work equally well in revolvers and autos and the flat nose makes a visible hole.
I went to RNFP bullets and never looked back. They work equally well in revolvers and autos and the flat nose makes a visible hole.
MrPhil
Member
Another vote for chamfering the charge holes. Really more of an "easing" than a full chamfer.
OCD1, gotta take issue with you on moon clips. They really float my boat. Shooting IDPA or steel with 45AR would put me in last place every time. The night before a match I load up 60 moon clips. Part of my ritual.
OCD1, gotta take issue with you on moon clips. They really float my boat. Shooting IDPA or steel with 45AR would put me in last place every time. The night before a match I load up 60 moon clips. Part of my ritual.
Amici
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1. The primary object of the exercise w/moon clips IS "speed loading." AND UN-loading. No cases hung up under the extractor.
Also keeps all your brass together. Very easy to recover your cases, as well as the most efficient way to un/load your revolver.
I do have a champered cyliner that was recently done by S&W but I still have problems from time to time.As it stands I have a large quanity of Israel Military Industries 185 gr copper plated LSWC bullets. They fit in the gun with no problem. They have a OAL of 1.160 and a gradual taper and no shoulder to hang up on. I sure have learned a lot from forum members and I thank you for your help. I also vwould like to thank the US Govt and the US Army for the ammo
Dale53
Member
When using full moon clips with Model 25's or 625's there is one thing I have not seen mentioned. There are several different manufacturers of full moon clips and many different manufacturers of .45 ACP cases. The combination of the two are not always compatible.
You might want to check out YOUR combination to see if maybe there is a "better pair".
I have had cases that really didn't "fit" a particular full moon clip.
Just something ELSE to think about...
Dale53
You might want to check out YOUR combination to see if maybe there is a "better pair".
I have had cases that really didn't "fit" a particular full moon clip.
Just something ELSE to think about...
Dale53
Lead Semi Wadcutters are about the worst bullet you can use in your revolver. Due to their shape, they are very difficult to reload quickly, even in a chamfered cylinder.
Use round nose or at least round nose flat point bullets to speed the reloading process.
Chris
Use round nose or at least round nose flat point bullets to speed the reloading process.
Chris
As I said originally but the OP did not stae he was speed loading or in competition.
TSQUARED
Member
The ca. 1mm portrusion of the bullet band on LSWC is a must for functioning in semi auto but it leads to hangups in revolvers. The only solution I have found is using round nose bullets.
Skip Sackett
US Veteran
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I have a PT1911 that will feed empty cases!
I have had an auto hang up when the lead was sticking out as you describe. Just a little too long and had it bump into the rifling. I have had the lead "hang up" when it was seated too long in my M625JM but that is because I have the bullets sized to be .001" bigger than the throats.
If that is the case with your reloads then all you have to do to correct it is seat just a little deeper.
Another way to get around it is roll crimping. Chamfer and roll crimp at the end of the LSWC shoulder. The problem would be if you got them mixed up and tried to run the roll crimped ones in your auto. Bad idea!
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