Lock up issue with new 686

[Thursday]

Hey guys. I recently bought a brand new 686. I started a thread a bit ago because I thought there was excessive wear on the ratchet. That thread, with photos, is here:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/315190-ratchet-peening-new-686-a.html

Anyways I finally got it to the range. I shot about 60 rounds though it or so. I didn't notice any issues with it firing. It shot a bit to the right with PMC 38 spl but it was grouped nicely and it shot dead on with my Gold Dot 357 ammo so I didn't think too much about it. Could have been me or the ammo.

After cleaning it I spent some time dry firing it and I noticed that on one or two of the cylinders it wouldn't lock prior to the hammer falling. When the hammer is allowed to fall all the cylinders will lock up but if I catch the hammer prior to striking the firing pin I can still rotated the cylinder slightly and lock it up myself on one or two cylinders. I'm not a big revolver guy but I'm guessing that's not how it's supposed to work correct?

I am assuming the advice will be to ship it in, which I plan to do, but how do I describe this issue better so they know what I am talking about? Is it a timing issue? Lock up issue? What?

Thanks guys

 

[Nevada Ed]

That is not a new gun !!

It has been used big time or that part is of poor grade right from the company !!
The edges should be sharp and clean not all buggered up and looking like it was hit by a buzz saw.

That part needs to be replaced.

 

[Nevada Ed]

That is not a new gun !!

It has been used big time or that part is of poor grade right from the company !!
The edges should be sharp and clean not all buggered up and looking like it was hit by a buzz saw.

That part needs to be replaced.

S&W stands behind their guns.................might ask if you can send in just the cylinder?

Good luck.

 

[Fastbolt]

New model S&W revolvers are checked for carry-up ("timing") while using properly sized dummy rounds in the charge holes. The new model revolvers don't have pinned extractors, but use the cases to index the extractor ratchets against the hand.

Sure, most of the new revolvers I've checked are able to exhibit proper carry-up even when checked with empty charge holes, but to do it right, dummy rounds are used. There's some small amount of movement of the new extractors within the "square" cylinder cuts which is reduced when cases are positioned in the charge holes (through the extractor arms).

FWIW, when armorers are taught to cut a new extractor, using the factory cutting hand/arm tool, they're told to put properly sized dummy rounds in the cylinder charge holes for the ratchets to be cut. Then, they're checked for carry-up the same way.

I've had an extractor develop similar marking to what was shown in your image, BTW. In my case, once I determined the cause (confirmed by a visiting factory armorer instructor), I was able to correct it.

Call S&W let them examine the 686 and make any repairs they feel appropriate under their warranty. Don't succumb to kitchen table gunsmithing and risk ruining the gun.

 

[varmint243]

I bought a used 6" 686 from a pawn shop long before I had any idea what to check on a revolver.
By everything I know to check now, the revolver is a mess.
Other than shimming the cylinder and putting a Wolfe mainspring in it, I have done nothing to it except shoot it.
It shoots like a dream and I have the pile of chrome+plastic trophies to prove it.
Sometimes I think people get way too worked up about this stuff.
If a revolver says Smith & Wesson on the side, it's pretty well good to go in my book.

 

[Gunz50]

A brand new S&W should not have an extractor that is that rough, timing should be spot on when slow cocking, no excuses, whether loaded or empty, a properly timed gun is just that.
Call Smith , calmly explain your problem, offer to email a pic of the extractor and ask them to send a pickup label and make it right.
In a few weeks you should have a great gun back.

 

[Thursday]

Contacted S&W. I didn't speak very long with CS. They asked me what the issue was and then said if I wanted to send it in that the directions were on their web-site and to fill it out. I was told shipping labels will be emailed to me later. A little worried that they won't understand the issue since CS didn't log anything and instead I was left with having to describe the issue in 150 words or less through their online system. Fingers crossed.

Thanks guys

 

[Fishinfool]

When you send the revolver in, include in the box a written, detailed account of your issue. Attach it to the trigger guard with a string. This will allow the tech. a better understanding of your issues.

Larry

 

[Thursday]

Well no shipping labels today. It did say 1-3 days so I'll give it until Tuesday.

Anyways the more I play with this gun the more I think I'm going to get it back with nothing changed. The cylinder that im having issues with does end up locking but it doesn't click like the other cylinders. Meaning that I can't rotate it backwards but it does move ever so slightly until the cylinder stop fully engages the cylinder notch with a "click". So the cylinder is locked despite the stop not being fully engaged. Then of course if you pull the trigger with any speed the cylinder's speed locks it in.

I'm thinking of seeing, while S&W has it, if they will swap in a 7 shot cylinder and how much they would charge me for that. That way they have to rework the timing for the 7 shot, and hopefully get it right, I get in essence a 686p and, since it's in on warranty, I save on shipping costs. I'm thinking I'll be told that they have two different facilities one that works on warranty repairs and one that does other non-warranty services and I'll have to mail it there. Keeps people from claiming an issue getting free shipping and then saying, "oh yea since you hit it why don't you do a trigger job for me?" Worth a try though.

I'll keep you guys informed on this.

 

[Thursday]

Update:

I got my 686 back from S&W. They replaced the ratchet and the timing issue is fixed. With shipping times I got the gun back in 13 days which is pretty good. So overall a good experience with S&W customer service. I wish I could say the same for Fed Ex though.....

I did ask about them putting a 7 shot cylinder in which they said they would do for approximately $150 or so (they could only ballpark the price) but I was told it would take an additional 8-12 weeks after the warranty work which they said would take 3 weeks so I didn't want to wait up 15 weeks and just had the warranty work done.

Thanks guys.

 

[Fastbolt]

Glad to hear it.