Loctite and guns - do they mix? This subject keeps coming up - hence another thread for those who wonder.

As someone who was a Huey and Blackhawk helicopter mechanic for years, I know quite a bit about threaded fasteners, torque, the proper way to install, and sometimes even repair screws and bolts, and thread plates.I have also been messing around with guns since about 1965 when I was 9.
Screws and the threaded parts they screw into are sometimes a little worn, damaged, or simply were not made exactly right in the first place. I have had to use the blue and purple Loctite a few times over the years, with excellent results.
I think a case could be made for you to use some Loctite sparingly on your Colts because the more times a screw needs to be retightened the more chances there are to accidentally bugger up the screw slot, or at least cause it to show some wear.
I have had a J frame .357 revolver for 35+ years. For almost a year after I bought it new, the little crane retention screw would back out a little during prolonged shooting sessions. I would simply snug it up good and carry on.
One day in 1994 while shooting that gun on my police department's outdoor shooting range we were having to qualify with our off-duty/backup guns. All was going well (I was shooting perfect scores) with this gun until on one stage during reloading that J frame .357, shooting .38 Special ammo, I swung open the cylinder to punch out the empties and the whole cylinder and crane assembly fell off the frame and hit the ground, much to my embarrassment and amusement of my fellow officers standing on either side of me. I immediately saw that the crane retention screw had backed out again and allowed the crane rod to slide out. Reassembly with a small touch of blue Loctite put on the little screw allowed me to continue with the qualification course.
I have kept Loctite on that screw ever since that day with no further problems.
BTW, my biggest and most enduring pet peeve is people who over-tighten screws and bolts, even on car wheel lug nuts.
I agree that screw threads do sometimes wear out and get sloppy which could invite a possible backing out. If you were not home, didn't have a new screw available or had to go to a match, raid, practice session, etc., then yes some blue Locktite would bail you out temporarily. That said, the screw should be replaced at the first opportunity you had to do it. After said screw was replaced, no more Locktite would be needed. Screw threads loosen up, wear and distort because they were not tightened properly in the first place - even more so under vibrations, gun fire and everyday use. Keeping a screw tightened to the proper torque setting will also prevent the internal frame female threads from wearing out. Those are much harder to repair. Many just do not understand the importance of proper tightening technique and torque. I know I sound like a tech nerd, but that is why most screw threads wear out, distort or strip. BTW, I do not use a torque wrench on guns as I have been working on them for 55 years now and mastered the technique. I was guilty of not doing so correctly in the very beginning but corrected that in short order.

I remove the yoke screw and grips on every single revolver I own every single time I clean it. I like cleaning the cylinder and charge holes while off the revolver because it is easier and makes the process that much better with less possibility of damage, scratching or missed fouling. I also like removing the grips to keep them in good shape and prevent damage during cleaning. I have been doing this for 50 years and have not yet had to replace a yoke screw because it got sloppy or a set of grips because they got damaged. I have also not had a yoke screw just loosen up on a S&W yet, but again, I agree it could happen on any gun if not properly tightened from the factory. I have replaced screws because a previous owner buggered one up or I just did not like the way it fit - I have encountered bad factory screws. That is why I keep every common screw and wear part in stock in my parts collection. I do not think I would need any outside parts to rebuild, repair or replace a part in any revolver I own. That's just the way I fly. I bought these spare parts over the years from S&W, Colt, gun shows, parts dealers, etc. I have not had to call an outside vendor for a part in decades. ;) I follow the same logic with semi auto's.

In the case of Colt SAA's which ARE notorious for having screws back out under fire, I starting using little red plastic washers (from Colt) and that greatly helps. It doesn't solve the problem 100%, so I just go over the screws when I clean the guns. That prevents any screws from turning more than 1/8 turn and works for me. My Colt SAA's are strictly fun guns or pleasure shooting guns now that I have hung up my spurs in the S.A.S.S. game. As the legend goes, "if you carry a Colt SAA, carry a screwdriver"! Replacing worn screws can also prevent this from happening and stay put for longer intervals. The plastic washers help as well. I suppose blue Locktite could be used, I just rather not on vintage & antique guns unless I have no choice in the matter.

I am one of those "car nuts" who actually torques lug nuts to spec. with a proper Torque Wrench. Whenever my wheels have been removed for new tire installation, balancing, brakes or whatever, I torque the lug nuts to their proper setting as soon as I return home - I don't trust the tire installers to do that! I also agree that tightening screws properly is somewhat of a learned skill or an "art". I have seen way too many screws that were left too lose or too tight - neither is good. The ability of properly tightening screws, nuts and bolts should be a high school course - lol!! :p
 
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No Loctite, the best thing that has happened to the gun industry was the Wheeler torque wrench. If you follow the recommended torque specs for 6-48 and similar size screws they don't come loose. To get the strength of the threads a minimum of 1 1/2 threads need to be engaged, softer materials like aluminum should be twice that.
 
Which spark plug manufacturer recommends using anti-seize on their spark plugs?:(
SFAIK No spark plug manufacturer. I learned two VERY harsh lessons on threaded steel items installed in threaded aluminum (not by me, by the oem). A wee dab makes sure the plugs come out without thread damage to the heads. As does use of an inch pound torque wrench.
 
Those that use anti-sieze or grease on fasteners need to adjust the torque value. A lot of guys get away without doing this, but a lot of wheel studs have been damaged by not adjusting the torque. Not very smart, it's not too late to start doing it right.
 
Haven't read every post, so if this has already been said, my apologies. I use thread locker on my 1911 platform grip screw bushings. I have had several back out, staying attached to the grip screw, when removing the grips. They are a very fine thread, and can be damaged very, very easily trying to separate them from the grips screw. I have used it on a few SA revolver screws, mostly the clones from Italy as all the trigger guard/backstrap and other screws seem to loosen up easily while shooting.
 
Hope it's not Ford. Their pickup engines have a reputation for mechanics breaking spark plugs off when trying to remove and change the originals when needed.
Bought one of the new type F-150s whenever they came out, 2004?? First time at dealership for tune up mechanic broke off number 4 and 8 plugs, closest to firewall. They had to remove the heads to get broken plugs out. Traded it in when they only offered a 1 year guarantee on the work. Understand now there is a tool to prevent plugs from breaking off…
 
I've been hearing about the brass bead flying off of the sights on the new mountain guns. I just bought a couple. Thinking about removing the beads and reinstalling them with loctite as a preventative measure so that I don't have to send it back to the mother ship right away.
 
First, people should know that these loctite products have a shelf life, use a tube that's been in the drawer for years and it locks nothing. Make sure to buy fresh stuff every few years. For tiny screws like scope mounts, it is the cats meow. Just don't use red. It isn't permanent or even damaging. The steel bolt in an aluminum part is simple...aluminum always loses. But there are dim bulbs with wrenches that will tighten down a drain plug in an aluminum pan like it is a Sportster Head bolt and do it right in front of you after you've told him not to....The next guy gets the surprise and you pay for it...
 

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