Looking 4 a stand out muzzle break

inmysights

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I am looking to find a muzzle break that just stands out from the rest. Trying to add a new look to my M&P. Anyone got any ideas or web sights?
 
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I would recommend you give consideration to the "Jerry Miculek Compensator Muzzle brake!" I have it on my 15-22 and it works great! Looks good, not unreasonably priced. With its 3 open bays, it directs sound and blast away from the shooter.

Good luck on whatever you wind up with! :D

Jammer
 

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I would recommend you give consideration to the "Jerry Miculek Compensator Muzzle brake!" I have it on my 15-22 and it works great! Looks good, not unreasonably priced. With its 3 open bays, it directs sound and blast away from the shooter.

Good luck on whatever you wind up with! :D

Jammer

These are great, but they do not direct sound away from the shooter. Put it on a 5.56 and it is almost painful to be around. Linear compensators like the Troy Claymore or Levang push the sound forward but don't eliminate muzzle rise as much.

If you just want the look of something cool, there are a ton of choices. Anything that is threaded 1/2x28 will fit. This means any 5.56 AR15 brake will work.
 
I use just a little Nordic Tactical on my 15-22. They don't really work every much on a .22LR. They do allow you to control sound some but for recoil and muzzle flip on a rimfire they do next to nothing. I use it mainly so it produces enough sound to be picked up by the shot timers in speed matches. Something with ports as big as the Miculek or Bennie Cooley type 3-gun comps will do nothing for a rimfire as they don't make enough gas to drive that type of comp. You want one with smaller and fewer holes for a rimfire.
 
These are great, but they do not direct sound away from the shooter. Put it on a 5.56 and it is almost painful to be around. Linear compensators like the Troy Claymore or Levang push the sound forward but don't eliminate muzzle rise as much.

If you just want the look of something cool, there are a ton of choices. Anything that is threaded 1/2x28 will fit. This means any 5.56 AR15 brake will work.

Yeah, the Miculek is well known for making your gun much louder, which is exactly why I put one on my 15-22. I wouldn't want one on my .223, but a little extra bang on my 15-22 is nice.
 
Especially when it won't do what it's suppose to do.

They sure are proud of absolutely everything they make. I appreciate quality, but damn.

Don't know if it's about the quality, but I'm sure it's good. The price comes from the material. Inconel and monel are very expensive to work with, hence the high price.

A LOT of aircraft hardware is made out of inconel and monel due to their extreme hardness and high heat qualities.

But, yeah, $400 for a brake. NOPE!
 
I have the Troy Claymore on my .223 and it really pushed the BANG out infront not near as bad anymore. I am thinking of putting one on the 15-22 just have to get a bbl vise pad thing first also. Love the look of the claymore also.

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Too bad Stag does not sell the comp from their 3-gun model separately. A review in Shooting Times found that it works too good. The barrel actually goes down after every shot. It has just a few small holes on top and some on the upperpart of the muzzle end. For that reason I am changing that comp on my 3G and replacing it with the AR-Stoner competition model. I'm thinking of then putting the Stag on my 15-22 instead of the Nordic Tactical. Might work out perfectly considering the lower gas output of the .22 round.
 
about that $400 brake: what makes it so expensive? just looks like a bunch of long, narrow longitudinal slots to me. what am i missing? thanks
 
As stated earlier, the KAC triple tap costs a lot due to the materials used and the cost of tooling etc. If you're wondering why the exotic material, it was designed to be a sacrificial baffle in the KAC NT4 suppressor. If you're not running a Knight's can, you're better off running a Battlecomp 1.0.

battlecomp.jpg


On a 15-22, I see absolutely no reason to run a comp other than looks. I say, take that money that you're going to spend on a comp and put it towards a .22 suppressor. If you want to increase the fun factor of the 15-22, the suppressor is where it's at. (and you don't need a flash hider/brake because the suppressor will be threaded on)
 
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I just picked up my m&p 15-22 a couple days ago and I'm a bit of a newbie. How exactly would you install the brake on the barrel? Is it welded or threaded on? Would I need a gunsmith to do it?
 
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