Looking for ANY information

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Inherited this .38 from my grandfather and I would love to get any information about it. I’m not very gun savvy but the serial number matches on bottom and cylinder of revolver. Would love to know what year this is gun was created and what type of value it holds. Was it a Police issue? What is the exact model?Literally any information would be appreciated. Thank you so much
 

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Hello and welcome to the S&W Forum.

You have a .38 Military & Police revolver from 1951 or 1952. It has the 4" barrel and the optional nickel finish. The stocks are an aftermarket addition.

It is very unlikely that it belonged to a police department. Most of these were sold to distributors for retail sale. Current value is in the $400 range, perhaps a little bit more.
 
Thank you so very much! I knew he changed the grip handles but wasn’t sure if he was the first owner. I wasn’t even sure what year it was. It’s exciting to think it could have been a police gun!
 
Military and Police is a part of the model naming that S&W used. As Jack noted they could be purchased by anyone.
Poster-Models-M&P.jpg
The purchaser may or may not have been some sort of law officer (some departments did not buy and issue firearms, but put that on the officer to do). You probably know as much about its history as anyone being that its been in your family for a while. For a fee (or membership) you can ask for some research in to the original sale but generally what you will learn is the retailer whom it was shipped to.

If you are interested in shooting it, there would be nothing wrong with that. Just be careful with some of the cleaning liquids so as not to damage the plating. My suggestion is to find a range that has some instruction available. You would not go wrong to watch youtube information from "Gun Blue" multipart series on shooting double action revolver - starting with part 2., "Paul Harrell" on negligent discharges and getting some dummy cartridges to practice in a safe location. Did I mention safe location? Pick a location with a substantial backstop (eg brick wall) and where you will never bring live ammo. It is good to be redundent with safety when dry firing - after all it is still pulling the trigger.

A reasonabley good starting video is this one from Chris Baker at Lucky Gunner
 
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Here's another, manufactured just a few years prior to yours, just to illustrate what the original grips would've looked like. Most nickeled S&W's were privately purchased. One prominent law enforcement agency that routinely procured nickeled M&P's (and later Model 10's) for their officers was the Detroit Police Department. Such will be clearly marked on the back strap.
 

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Just so you know, this type of revolver is by far the largest volume revolver S&W ever made, from 1899 to the present. Millions of them in numerous variations have been made. There are some unusual versions which have significant value, but most K-frame revolvers are quite common, and in typical used condition will sell today in the approximate $500 range. Originality and condition are the primary determinants of value.Yours is about average on both counts, although the factory nickel finish might add a little extra value while the non-original grips will slightly devalue it. Basically you have a nice shooter and you should treat it as such, not as a valuable collectible. In other words, don’t be afraid to shoot it a lot and don’t be concerned with its monetary value. To you, it is an heirloom.
 
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The photo's of the underside of the barrel show the S/N, and preceding that a "C N". Understanding the "N" stands for Nickle, what does the "C" stand for?

That's part of the serial number. The "N" for nickel finish got stamped in the gap between the alpha prefix and the digits.
 
Military and Police is a part of the model naming that S&W used. As Jack noted they could be purchased by anyone.
View attachment 768498
The purchaser may or may not have been some sort of law officer (some departments did not buy and issue firearms, but put that on the officer to do). You probably know as much about its history as anyone being that its been in your family for a while. For a fee (or membership) you can ask for some research in to the original sale but generally what you will learn is the retailer whom it was shipped to.

If you are interested in shooting it, there would be nothing wrong with that. Just be careful with some of the cleaning liquids so as not to damage the plating. My suggestion is to find a range that has some instruction available. You would not go wrong to watch youtube information from "Gun Blue" multipart series on shooting double action revolver - starting with part 2., "Paul Harrell" on negligent discharges and getting some dummy cartridges to practice in a safe location. Did I mention safe location? Pick a location with a substantial backstop (eg brick wall) and where you will never bring live ammo. It is good to be redundent with safety when dry firing - after all it is still pulling the trigger.

A reasonabley good starting video is this one from Chris Baker at Lucky Gunner

Thank you so very much for this useful information! My grandfather was in the Army but I’m sure he purchased this on his own accord. He has had it a very long time but I didn’t get much of a story about it. He knew that I liked revolvers so he left it to me. I have shot it before and it is pretty accurate (especially for its age) I thought it could have been from late 70s to early 80s! I had no idea it was older! He always took very good care of his possessions so I know that it will be reliable should I ever need it. I really appreciate the input. Thank you so much
 
Here's another, manufactured just a few years prior to yours, just to illustrate what the original grips would've looked like. Most nickeled S&W's were privately purchased. One prominent law enforcement agency that routinely procured nickeled M&P's (and later Model 10's) for their officers was the Detroit Police Department. Such will be clearly marked on the back strap.
Is there anyway I could possibly find original style grips to replace it should I want to change it back?
 
The grips you have look to be made of catalin, a material made by Maurice D. Sarlac who provided grips favored by John Wayne (see True Grit) the color and finger grooves being a strong clue. Finding original grips should be relatively easy, but the one’s on it are an interesting bit of history in themselves.
 
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