Loose screws on new 610!

ShrinkMD

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I love my new production 610, but it had two screws that were loose. The thumbpiece screw needed tightening, and then the rear sight came loose and flew toward me while shooting the other day. I didn't know what flew past me at first, thinking "hey this is a revolver, not a semi auto, why is brass being ejected toward me??"

Are those two screws normally loc-tited? I have been shooting S&W revolvers for many years now, from 22 up to 500, and I have never had either of those two screws wiggle loose. Should I send it back to the factory for a check up, or just tighten and go about my business?
 
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Back in the day, the two most common screws to come loose were the front sight retaining screw and the thumbpiece screw. Locktite did not exist then and I would not use it now!!
Find the right fiting screw drivers and snug them up. One had to be very careful with the old front sight screw as it had a small, shallow slot. I think the new ones are larger.
 
S&W is notorious for not adequately tightening screws and having them work loose very soon after the owner begins to shoot the gun. The very first thing you should do with ANY new gun is check all fasteners for being tight. The fastener for the thumbpiece is a nut, not a screw. And NO, you shouldn't Loc-Tite any fastener on a S&W, just tighten them. If adequately tightened they will not loosen.
 
ShrinkMD... I had an M625 Jerry Miculek version as my first Big-Bore Revolver but have multiple examples of .38Special Smith and Colt beforehand. I bought the M625 because of a problematic black bear at our mountain house and it was the perfect excuse to get into the Wonderful "N" frame Smiths that I've come to love the most out of any other handgun.

The first range day with the M625... the strain screw came loose/backed causing light strikes with Federal HST .45ACP's that are known for their soft, and easy to "touch-off" primers. I have a nice set of drivers made specifically for the screw/nut heads of S&W Revolvers. So I get her home on the bench and tighten every screw and the cylinder release nut on the gun really, really well. The next three range sessions 2-3 cylinders in it started happened with .45acp's, +P's, and most certainly shooting .45Supers all over again... Light primer strikes with strain screw backing out, cylinder release comes loose and off at range, yoke and side plate screws back out significantly; to the point I'd never carry it in the "Woods" or for anything else at that point... Then I did some research and was suggested Purple Loc-Tite... It's actually made for firearms and like applications. I cleaned and de-greased every screw, nut, post and hole in the gun that had previously backed out. Then I added two small dabs of the Purple Loc-Tite (with a toothpick) on all offending screws/nut & snugged them all back down & went 1/8th to 1/4 past snug as usual. The M625 to this day hasn't exhibited any of the aforementioned problems to this day and it receives a steady diet of 255 grain hard cast "Keith" topped .45Supers. I sold it to my little brother that just had to have it after he borrowed/shot it and his dedicated "Woods-Gun". I've since gotten into .44Specials & .44Magnums. The Purple Loc-Tite saved the M625 from being sold to a stranger. It's a great Revo now...

Best yet, when you want to take the side plate off for cleaning, adjusting, tuning, etc... the screws came out no problem with just a little more effort than normal but certainly Nothing hard or strenuous about it. Better than that attribute even... the threads came clean with minimal effort as well. When Loc-Tite says it's made for firearms and similar applications they mean it and my experience with Purple Loc-Tite is it matches their manufacturer's claim. I won't use any other kind of Loc-Tite other than the "Purple" kind.

The wife's new M642 "Airweight" (she loves her new Revo btw) exhibited the same exact problems as the M625 did after just one range session of only 90 rounds (and I tightened everything down before range day to be sure all was snug...) After the range date we had I performed the Same "Purple Loc-Tite" treatment and all has been beautiful after. I later did a trigger job just recently that resulted in dropping the almost 13lb trigger weight downto a deceivingly silky just under 8lb DA pull. All threads cleaned up well removing the previously added "Purple-Loc-Tite" when I did the recent trigger work. Once happy with the work I did to the trigger pull results... I reapplied (2) new dabs of the "Purple Loc-Tite" on the Yoke, and sideplate screws and snugged them down. Again, the results are Zero backing out under recoil and testing multiple kinds of ammo to ensure detonation after the trigger job.... I love the Purple Loc-Tite and everyone else (guys that recommended it to me first)... that has actually used it for this specific application has had the same experience as I have with it.

So, I'm going on the record here and saying:... I use and will always use "Purple Loc-Tite" for the above applications and recommend it to anyone who is constantly having stain screw, yoke screw, side plate screws, and the cylinder release nut constantly coming lose under recoil, range day, etc... The reason why... Not all Loc-Tite is the same and the "Purple" has resolved all the problems I've had with current production Smiths. Most importantly it's easy to remove and clean from any threads/screws it was applied to for when cleaning or tuning is desired; yet stays put when where and when you need it to...

Pic of my (now my brothers) M625 and the Wifey's M642 below...

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Locktite blue won't hurt anything...and it'd never come loose again. The trick is to only get it on the offending fastener without dripping it everywhere.

True "RickA"... and especially for use in a heavy use environment. I installed an Midwest Industries "Low Profile Gas" block to fit under my quad rail on my "Recce" AR build back in 08' when I built my first AR. I don't know how many rounds have been thru her since then but those 3 set screws that ride underneath that Gas Block have never budged one degree and the witness marks are still aligned to prove it. That Gas Block and Barrel gets HOT when slinging more than 15 rounds a minute. It's a nice testament to the Loc-Tite as well and as to it's ability to stand up against heat, use, and time for sure! Yet a simple Allen Wrench and the turn of my finger(s) will still loosen those set screws should I want to back them out for any reason I wish.

Pic of my referenced 08' "Recce"... topped off with a Vortex "Strike-Eagle" 3x18x44 Scope... My favorite long gun!
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I always check the screws after shooting a lightweight J frame b/c they do tend to back out a bit after 100 + rounds.
 
If yours is anything like my new 610, I can guarantee you the *quick change* front sight will never ever, ever fall off. But hey, a least the barrel isn't canted on mine.

Was yours built on 06/05 by chance?
 
Are you serious that you would send a gun to the factory to tighten 2 screws? Buy some proper hollow ground screwdrivers and get it done!

I know how to tighten screws ;) I was just thinking that if there were some quality issues that I can see, perhaps there are others that may be less obvious.

I will add some purple Loctite to my next Amazon cart. Otherwise the gun is a beauty, with a very nice trigger given that it isn't really broken in yet.
 
I know how to tighten screws ;) I was just thinking that if there were some quality issues that I can see, perhaps there are others that may be less obvious.

I will add some purple Loctite to my next Amazon cart. Otherwise the gun is a beauty, with a very nice trigger given that it isn't really broken in yet.

No, it's not a QC problem. It's something I have had with every one of my N frames with various screws working loose after shooting a while. The ones I have had most problems with are the front screw holding the rear sight on, the sideplate screws tending to back out a little and I actually lost the nut that holds the cylinder release on once on my 629-3 Classic. I have loctite on the front sight screw, but the others I just check before I go to the range and after I come back from shooting when cleaning my revolvers.
 
Purple threadlocker is actually made for small fasteners

Loctite rates it's fasteners by fastener size & heat rating. Purple would be good for anything on a S&W. Blue is OK but ya gotta have the perfect driver and make sure it's only where ya want it.
 
Are the screws stretching? I wonder.

Common for screws to come loose on s&w revolvers that's why I first chose ruger security sixes over a model 19.
 
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If you are worried , check the other screws on the gun when you tighten the two that were loose. Be sure and check strain screw. I have had those loosen up.
 
Hmm, now I have other problems, in DA shooting, I am getting some light strikes on the primers. In SA I have no problems. I took off the grips and checked the strain screw, it's as tight as a...so that's not the problem. These are my loads, hundreds of flawless rounds through my M&P40. I can try seating the primers a touch deeper, but they are already slightly below flush.

As I said in the first post, it is a new gun, and in all my years of shooting S&W revolvers, I've never had loose screws before. I'm wondering if something else may be wrong with it.

Or could it be the polymer moonclips I am using?
 
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