Lower Control Arm Replacement

There are numerous how-to videos on YouTube. I have never done that job, but it does not seem that it would be very difficult. But different vehicles might have different levels of difficulty.
 
Parts and labor for two new lower control arms?
If that’s just labor for one, I’d be calling around or doing it myself
 
Not that difficult - depends on the car. I have done a few front end re-builds on older cars. Best advice would be to watch a video or two featuring your particular vehicle. Might need a hammer / pickle type pry bar.

Usually best to replace both at the same time. May or may not need a front end alignment afterwords if you find it pulling to one side or the other.

Larry
 
Sounds like the shop owner has a boat payment due. The last work I had done, they charged $132/hr shop time. That was 4 months ago. If it is a more or less easy job, they should get it done in a couple of hours. Sounds like a $500. job. Plus tax and misc costs, which can add up.

73,
Rick
 
Just be very careful of the springs. If you let it get away, it could seriously injure and possibly kill you. :eek:
Many auto parts stores have spring compressors in their loaner tools. ;)
When I was still working we put the car on a lift and then used a transmission jack under the control arm to slowly relieve the pressure and remove the springs. Reverse to put back together.
 
2001 Chevy Malibu. That’s both control arms.

Watching videos now. Doesn’t look too bad.

I'm not familiar with that vehicle but get yourself a helper, the special tools, double check on youtube and/or a repair catalog (do we still have those?) and you'll be fine. Remember to get an alignment afterwards.
 
If the car is very rusty you might have the bolts siezed in the bushings. Try loosening the bolts first.
Getting the rear bushing to slide into the frame can be difficult. It won’t go in straight due to the end hitting the the hub and knuckle. I sometimes remove the axle nut to swing the knuckle out of the way.
If the bolts are seized they’ll have to be torched out. If so, call different shops for estimates. Should be about 2 hours labor per side.
Call Rock Auto and others to price out the part so you can look at the estimates with some knowledge.
Make sure the estimates give you parts and labor individually.
 
It's been 25 years since I did that for a living...I have no clue on current pricing...I would ask for an itemized estimate, then compare it to other itemized estimates from other shops...Ask if you're buying new or used parts, is a 4 wheel alignment included?...If you feel competent to do the work safely yourself, you'll save the labor...:rolleyes:...Ben
 
I removed and replaced the lower and upper control arms in my 1966 Corvette about 10 years ago, but I did send them out for powder coating and the riveting of new ball joints. Don't think I would attempt that now.
 
I went for e250 alignment at a chain mech shop. They wanted 600 for tie rod ends. I priced parts at 500 . Took a close look and just tightened f wheel bearings. Problem solved.

Does your estimate include alignment?
 
May I ask why the lower control arms are thought to require replacement?

I have pulled and reinstalled upper and lower control arms to replace ball joints and pivot bushings, but I have never seen or heard of a reason to replace the arms themselves other than accident damage.

John?
 
May I ask why the lower control arms are thought to require replacement?

I have pulled and reinstalled upper and lower control arms to replace ball joints and pivot bushings, but I have never seen or heard of a reason to replace the arms themselves other than accident damage.
I was curious about that myself...But I do recall some MoPar ball joints from the 70's that were available only as a complete control arm...And I do remember replacing someone's lower control arm because one bushing was so wallowed out it ate into the surrounding metal...:rolleyes:...Ben
 
Just looking here at work our price on the arms O/C is $90 each.
Being your car has struts on the front it should be a fairly simple job. As long as you don’t remove the top nut on the strut the spring should sta captive on the strut.
 
I was curious about that myself...But I do recall some MoPar ball joints from the 70's that were available only as a complete control arm...And I do remember replacing someone's lower control arm because one bushing was so wallowed out it ate into the surrounding metal...:rolleyes:...Ben

That's what you get in states without a proper annual inspection. If you want to be properly frightened, go to Youtube and see what is involved in a British MoT test or a German TUV inspection. Don't scream when the big lever bar to test the suspension comes out, it frightens the horses.
 
Search Just Rolled In on YouTube.
Guys submit videos showing the condition some peoples cars are in when they bring them in.
Brake rotors thin as paper plates. Trailing arms fabricated out of 2x4s. Subframes missing multiple mounting bolts. Scary stuff considering many of the owners refused to repair the car and drove off.
 
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So … how did it go ?
I’m rebuilding the front end on my cutlass , in between doing all my other chores haha
How long did it take you to get it done ?
 
It went well. The car was a weekend only driver and sat for several years. The rubber bushings dry rotted.

Got a front end alignment after. All good.
When I was much younger, I rebuilt the front end of a 1984 Impala my daughter had acquired. New ball joints, new coil springs, new bushings and tie rod ends. Labor intensive during a 100 degree heat wave, and it took a day and half. When I was done, I took it for a alignment. The shop owners eyes lit up figuring he was going to be able to claim I needed a bunch of new parts. An hour later he came back with a grumpy disposition and charged me $36.

As you have found out, many newer vehicles don't have replaceable ball joints or bushings, requiring replacement of the whole control arm that comes with those parts installed. The A arms on that old Impala probably outlived the rest of the car.

I still do my own maintenance and most repairs. Being retired, the labor is free and it's hard to beat free. Doing it yourself gives you the satisfaction of knowing it's done right and gives you the chance to look for other potential problems. For example, I do my own tire rotations. During the last rotation, I noticed my rear brake pads were very thin, so I replaced them. It only added an extra 30 minutes or so to the process, since the vehicle was already raised and the wheels removed, and prevented the need to replace worn rotors later down the line.
 
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