Lube, do you or don't you?

Yesterday our Daughter came over for a visit. I offered to clean her Shield because I knew it hadn't been cleaned in a long time, but had been shot a lot. It was nasty, glad I had some rubber gloves.
The wear points on the slide were bright and shiny and dry as a bone. I scrubbed and cleaned and lubed it and the slide was so much smoother, it is a well "broken in" carry pistol now.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
The problem people have with Froglube is they don't follow application instructions and stick with "The bigger the glob, the better the job" theory.

The gun should be cleaned of old oils, heated, and FL applied. After it sits--wipe off all excess! Then you'll notice how really slick it makes metal parts.

Any excess not wiped off will run when heated and surely go places it shouldn't. The people get gummy firing pin channels, etc., and want to blame the FL for their own induced problem.
 
I use Motorkote lightly on the lube points. It stays where you put it.
 
I clean and oil with G96, and use a synthetic grease (Super Lube) which is more like a heavy oil for the spots the manual calls for a drop of oil. Mostly, my guns "look" dry, except for those tiny little spots that got the grease. And, I really mean tiny!
 
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I wish I had a dime for every gun I've seen wrecked by rust from neglect. Even a LITTLE oil once in a while would have prevented it. On the other hand I can't remember a single firearm that has ever malfunctioned from over-oiling, or had pounds of grit inside, stuck to the oil.
 
After I clean and lube my gun. I hold it pointing down and put one drop of Hoppe's Gun Oil down each rail, where the slide slides. That's harsh metal to metal contact. I think that's one spot that needs a good coat of some type of lube. I've never experiences any type of dirt or grime build up on any of my guns.
 
Guess I'm the odd man out I use Unicorn tears. Unicorn lube by Umbrella corporation. Needed some Aeroshell 33 they had this lube and couldn't resist after reading their mission statement. It's good stuff but after that it's Mobil One. Frog Lube looks like a pain to start with and doesn't give any exceptional benefits over others and comes up short in others.
 
How many of you gentlemen have ever seen a " Gun Oil Refinery " ?????

A quart can of automobile automatic transmission has lasted me for over 20 years now. I have never seen a transmission with rusted parts in it either......just saying!

By the way, transmissions work from 40 below zero to over 200 degrees also.
 
I clean and oil with G96, and use a synthetic grease (Super Lube) which is more like a heavy oil for the spots the manual calls for a drop of oil. Mostly, my guns "look" dry, except for those tiny little spots that got the grease. And, I really mean tiny!
G96 is good stuff
 
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I do see that. Who reads the manual! Just kidding lol, I read the parts I needed.
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Notice the manual says to use GUN OIL......not motor oil :D
 
There is a myth that all cops love guns and are good shooters and take care of their sidearms. That's is pure myth! When I was promoted to Captain of the Armory, the first thing I did was rewrite our sidearm policy as follows!

Every officer had to send his or her issue weapon to the armory once a month for maintenance on their off day. They carried either a Glock 17, 19 or a 26 9 mm department issued weapon. The armorers would check unload and cleared status and simply place the entire weapon in a rack that was submerged into a 55 gallon drum that was 50% water and 50% Simple Green and soaked for over 4 hours. Then the weapons were disassembled to field stripping condition pursuant to manufacturing guidelines. There were blown dry with compressed air and lubed with Mobile 1 10W50 synthetic motor oil pursuant to manufacturer specifications and reassembled.

In the 5 years that I was over the armory, we never had a single firearm failure in a 30 plus member department and my policy is still in place.
 
Hoppes.....

Man, does no one use Hoppe's products anymore? I still use many, and also some of Otis products, mainly the spray dry lube. Have no issues with any of them.


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I use it, but you have to be careful where to use it nowadays. The new S&W bluing will turn violet when exposed to Hoppes 9 (or any product with ammonia) and their 'Elite' product is recommended for use on 'plastic' guns.

I'm not sure just why but I like 'Outers' cleaner and oil. Probably because the cleaner is just plain old fashioned SOLVENT.:)

And I just like the oil for no particular reason.

Several guns that I own have specific instructions to put one drop of oil on certain points on the gun. It won't 'hurt' a gun to slather it on, but it's not necessary when judicious use is what is called for.

Again, I say that if a gun NEEDS to be run wet to function well, it needs a gunsmith more than it does lubrication.
 
I've used Frog Lube a lot and am intimately familiar with its application.

How long does it last? Well, that's a loaded question. That will depend on use of course. If you're storing a gun, it will last many years. Just warm it up (place it in the sun) and wipe it all over. It will protect from rust as good or better than most other products.

When shooting, I've gone as far as 1,000 rounds without adding more and without loss of lubrication. How do I know? Because I could still see it on the gun.

Is it better than Hoppes? Better is an ambiguous term. Still, I like it better for two reasons. First, it's easier to clean up. Since it's non toxic, I don't worry about getting it on anything. My hands don't react to it at all and it smells good. The wife doesn't complain. Happy wife, happy life. That should be enough.

Secondly, it doesn't attract dirt or get all over your stuff. If applied properly, you stay clean too. Oil can get on things and stain them or ruin them. Frog Lube will not drip or run where it's not wanted.

To apply is easy. Start, by warming your gun with a hair dryer or just setting it in the sun for a while. Then liberally apply Frog Lube to anywhere you think you need lube. Let sit for 5 minutes. Now take a rag and wipe everything off that you can see. This sounds counter intuitive, but it really does work. You've left behind a very thin film of lube that is plenty. More than that can actually be too much for some guns.

After shooting you'll find your gun is much easier to clean. Use the liquid stuff and just put it on like normal, but remember to let it sit for 5 minutes or so and wipe it off. Seriously, it should seem like your not using enough. I can tell you that after many thousands of rounds, I have perfect confidence in Frog Lube and the method of application I just described.

I started using FL when I started shooting M&P's, applied as Rastoff described I've gotten exceptional service from it. Well over 200 K rounds distributed between 4 M&Ps, I don't use the M&Ps very much anymore (but they're corrosion free in the safe). My STI didn't much like FL, it likes to run wet (like most 1911 designs so I use Brian Enos Slide Glide light on the rails and Mobil 1 0W20 on the rest of the gun. No failures in competition yet and I'm in my 3rd year with that gun. I'm not entirely convinced that the brand of lube matters, personally I think a M&P would function on spit. A 1911, not so much. Just oil them and forget it, lube it till it drips and then wipe off the excess.
 
I carry my 2.0 compact everyday, and my sweat is like acid at times.

Inside the gun gets Froglube on the weekends, outside gets CLP everyday.
 
I carry my 2.0 compact everyday, and my sweat is like acid at times.

Inside the gun gets Froglube on the weekends, outside gets CLP everyday.

Be careful, petroleum based CLP acts like a solvent on Froglube. If it was me (just a suggestion) I'd run Froglube 100%, it has great corrosion protection.
 
How many of you lube all the points the manual says? A drop or a light coating? None? I tend to run mine somewhat dry, it doesn't pick up as much ****.

Try to run your car engine's dry. See if it likes it.:rolleyes:
 
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