I have a new M&P 9mm and have been advised to use grease on the slide and not oil. I am sure there is a thread on this already but did not find it. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Roger
Thanks,
Roger
Lube for semi-auto pistols
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MichiganScott
Member
The manual from S&W shows the points where one drop on oil is needed for proper lubrication and function. You really can't got wrong following the manufacturers recommendations. I'd bet that is what S&W did during testing.
That being said, an old rule of thumb for gun care is oil it if it rotates and grease it if it slides. The problem being that most new shooters over do both and their gun drips oil like a pan head Harley and has more grease that a Peterbilt's wheel bearing.
That being said, an old rule of thumb for gun care is oil it if it rotates and grease it if it slides. The problem being that most new shooters over do both and their gun drips oil like a pan head Harley and has more grease that a Peterbilt's wheel bearing.
OLDSTER
Member
Yeap! I agree. The old gunsmithing adage that still holds true even with polymer frames is "grease it if it slides and oil it if it rotates".
Read this this article on gun lubes. It may confirm/dispell some gun lube stories.
GrantCunningham.com - Library
GrantCunningham.com - Library
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all357mag
Member
Don't listen to all the bull! Lube it with what you got. WD40, anything. This shootin' business ain't rocket science, in spite of what some would have you believe.
Arik
Member
What he said ^
Half the time i clean my shooting/EDC gun in the mornings at work. I use a tooth brush and transmission fluid. At home i clean with CLP or Hoppes
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Half the time i clean my shooting/EDC gun in the mornings at work. I use a tooth brush and transmission fluid. At home i clean with CLP or Hoppes
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Moonman
Member
FailZero EXO (Nickle Boron coating).
Never needs Lubricated!
Just Wipe Off to Clean.
EXPENSIVE, but Highly Recommended for Professional Operators in HARSH ENVIROS.
Never needs Lubricated!
Just Wipe Off to Clean.
EXPENSIVE, but Highly Recommended for Professional Operators in HARSH ENVIROS.
That's true to a large part, only WD-40 is the only product that failed to perform on my guns. It is not a lubricant, it's a water displacement compound that gums up and does not prevent rust. I found that out the hard way. A can of simple 3-in-1 oil works as well as any magical gun product.
dfariswheel
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Use any good heat and water resistant grease.
Ordinary hardware store, farm supply store, Walmart, or auto store Lithium grease is as good as anything, and it's cheap.
Lithium grease was the issue grease for the M1 rifle and it works very well in auto pistol slide rails and on the barrel.
Lithium grease is a yellow-white color that doesn't make a mess like the black greases like Moly-Lithium.
Ordinary hardware store, farm supply store, Walmart, or auto store Lithium grease is as good as anything, and it's cheap.
Lithium grease was the issue grease for the M1 rifle and it works very well in auto pistol slide rails and on the barrel.
Lithium grease is a yellow-white color that doesn't make a mess like the black greases like Moly-Lithium.
WiCK3D_SiX
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I prefer GunSlick graphite grease. Cheap, super slick, and surprisingly doesn't seem to attract lint and dirt.
Synergy-I535
Synergy-I535
I use Gunzilla. Used by the troops in Iraq and Afghanistan. Does not attract dirt or debris. Can be used as a cleaner AND lube. After shooting, you just wipe off and re apply. Also used by law enforcement and federal agencies nation wide. Just go to
topduckproducts.com for information and ordering. Your LGS may have it also.
topduckproducts.com for information and ordering. Your LGS may have it also.
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On my Revolvers I use Rig#2 Oil to clean, lube and keep the rust away.
On the Auto's I also use Rig #2 but on the slide rails and barrel lugs I use Rig +P Grease. It's worked for me for over 35 years.
I have also tried all of the "miracle" lubes, oils and solvents and while most will do the job, I have always gone back to the two Rig products above.
Chief38
On the Auto's I also use Rig #2 but on the slide rails and barrel lugs I use Rig +P Grease. It's worked for me for over 35 years.
I have also tried all of the "miracle" lubes, oils and solvents and while most will do the job, I have always gone back to the two Rig products above.
Chief38
HCH
Member
WD40? Absurd!
zorro49
Member
Have been using Gunzilla for about 2.5 yrs and have been very pleased with the results. Easy on the hands and nose with good cleaning ability, lubrication, and rust prevention. As v-13 stated, soldiers using it in Iraq and Afghanistan have touted its' ability to dissipate dust in conditions encountered in combat. zorro49
Wee Hooker
Member
I would agree. As we use grease on bearing surfaces in handguns, it isn't very taxing on ANY lube. (i.e No sever cycle rates, heat build-up, shearing forces, etc.) Any good grease that stays in place is fine. Lithium based are very good for this purpose and plentiful in most local hardware and automotive stores at big savings.
That said, I do like my greases to come in syringes for ease of application and minimum clean-up.
Another USA made lube that has been troop tested is the Weapons Shield line which seems quite similar to Gunzilla. The oil really helps keep .22 semi autos running. The grease is straw colored, smells good enough to eat and really works. Great stuff for the slide rails on pistols, even polymer frame models. Cleans off easily too.
bp231986
Member
I use Weapon Shield oil and grease but all the products that will be and have been mentioned here will do the same equally well.
HCH
Member
Stop by your farm supply store and buy some syringes and needles. File the sharp tip off the needles and load'em up with your favorite grease.
I find them at Tractor Supply. Livestock | Livestock Health | Livestock Veterinary Supplies at Tractor Supply Co.
Dann Fassnacht
Member
I use CLP for everything, and it works.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I use a Moly paste or moly anti seeze. www.tsmoly.com (ts70 moly)
Moly;
Eliminates all wear
Reduces Friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays were we put it
Dosen't attract dirt
Moly on your trigger sear can lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as it works into the pores of the metal.
Your gun is ready to rock n roll even during a long term storage.
Moly;
Eliminates all wear
Reduces Friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays were we put it
Dosen't attract dirt
Moly on your trigger sear can lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as it works into the pores of the metal.
Your gun is ready to rock n roll even during a long term storage.
In general I agree with the slide/rotate guideline mentioned, but it is not quite that simple. It will be on an M&P because nothing there fits tight.
I am something of a lubrication bon vivant and am always on the prowl for something new. I probably have more little tubes, bottles and jars of grease and oil sitting around than most, and they will all work OK for the M&P. I prefer something with Molysulfide, for a new gun in particular, but to be honest I am more interested in the type of container the grease comes in than the grease itself. If it is a nifty little tube with a pointy nozzle that I can use to easily get that grease right where I want it with minimum mess, I think it is the berries!
For the rotators, I have been known to steal Blue Juice from the son's trumpet case for the barrel of the yoke in my S&Ws, but I will lower myself to Rem-Oil or, better still, Browning Gun Oil, if I have to. Those containers with the little metal needle that assists in dropping that oil exactly where you want it are - as the young people like to say - "the bomb!"
For those in-between applications I cling to the remains of my supply of beloved LSA.
When it comes to lubricating your pistols, style is everything.
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Harrison
US Veteran
for pistols clean with Ed's Red and lube with Red Oil. It's OK to use a good lithium grease on semi-auto slides and rails. I would not let WD-40 within 50 feet of any firearm I cared about. WD-40 has its uses, but firearms are not among them.
AzRedleg
Member
I use ATF. A quart doesn't cost much and a little goes a really long way.
Mobil 1
I have a quart of 5-30 synthetic Mobil 1 and a small can of Peak RED synthetic grease. Now, If I dont spill or knock over either, I will have gun protection for GENERATIONS.
Actually these are reserve, but one Quart of oil costs almost the same as a tiny needle tipped applicator of similar oil but ony get maybe 1/2 oz.
The same with the grease in a syringe. My grease is on the tip of a bamboo skewer.
Chuck
I have a quart of 5-30 synthetic Mobil 1 and a small can of Peak RED synthetic grease. Now, If I dont spill or knock over either, I will have gun protection for GENERATIONS.
Actually these are reserve, but one Quart of oil costs almost the same as a tiny needle tipped applicator of similar oil but ony get maybe 1/2 oz.
The same with the grease in a syringe. My grease is on the tip of a bamboo skewer. Chuck
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Grease is fine, but if the person who told you this was telling you that you should not use gun oil on the M&P, then that person is "full of it."
Grease will stay a little longer, but some grease will also become sluggish in the cold.
Most any gun oil will be fine. I use Breakfree CLP. There are as many opinions about the "best" gun oil as there are you-know-whats.
If you insist on grease, Wilson Combat makes a really nifty gun grease that comes in an applicator that looks like a syringe allowing very precise placement of the grease. The M&P, like the Glock, does not need to be "wet" or so lubed that you get a shower each time the slide functions.
The manual suggests one drop of "high quality firearms lubricant" in 7 strategic locations. See the manual at page 23. Follow the instructions in the manual. If you don't have one, you can view or download online at S&W's web site.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/M&P_Pistol_Manual_10-30-2012.pdf
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Lube is always better than no lube, and just about any will work.
That said, I mainly use Wilson Combat lubes.
Biggest reason is that in comes in nice no-mess applicator bottles.
That said, I mainly use Wilson Combat lubes.
Biggest reason is that in comes in nice no-mess applicator bottles.
Oil
I ran into a S&W armoror at my local gun store when I brought my 9mm Shield in for repair, the trigger got stuck in the all the way back position. He fixed it in two seconds and notices I lightly greased the rails and gave me some light hearted **** about it. He told me any kind of oil, just one drop, 3 in 1 oil works just fine too. he said. He said grease is a magnet for dust and powder residue. So I switched to oil.
I ran into a S&W armoror at my local gun store when I brought my 9mm Shield in for repair, the trigger got stuck in the all the way back position. He fixed it in two seconds and notices I lightly greased the rails and gave me some light hearted **** about it. He told me any kind of oil, just one drop, 3 in 1 oil works just fine too. he said. He said grease is a magnet for dust and powder residue. So I switched to oil.
