Habiendo sido usuario de pistolas semiautomáticas toda mi vida, desconozo cual es el procedimiento para mantener lubricado el mecanismo interno de un revólver, debido a la gran cantidad de piezas que interactúan, es forzosa su apertura para lograrlo o puede utilizarse un lubricante en aerosol. Cordiales saludos.
Lubricación interna de un revólver
- Thread starter GOLDOT
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Buenos noches......
Aerosols tend to gum up the action in my experience....and also attract dirt to the internals. (Never use Rem-oil or WD-40 on, in or near your firearms)
If you are unfamiliar with how to remove the sideplate for a "look see", my recommendation would be to take it to your trusted gunsmith for a once over and a re-lubrication.
Aerosols tend to gum up the action in my experience....and also attract dirt to the internals. (Never use Rem-oil or WD-40 on, in or near your firearms)
If you are unfamiliar with how to remove the sideplate for a "look see", my recommendation would be to take it to your trusted gunsmith for a once over and a re-lubrication.
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A menos que el revólver se dispare con frecuencia, la lubricación interna no es realmente necesaria. Las partes internas en realidad requieren muy poco en términos de lubricación... y cuando sea necesario, se debe usar un aceite ligero.
cuando estoy limpiando mis revólveres, solo pongo un goteo de aceite de pistola en las partes internas por el martillo amartillado
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Since my Spanish isn't that good I'll stick my 2 centavos in by saying this. I would never use WD-40 inside a revolver unless that is all I had available at the time. If I had to use it I'd clean it off and relube with a real gun lube at earliest convenience.
Up to about 3 years ago my go to product for inside a revolver was Rig #2 Oil. After using it for 40+ years I'd highly recommend it! Unfortunately the new company bought Birchwood Casey has discontinued it. I still have a few cans and will still use it inside revolvers until it's gone. IMHO it was an excellent product and never gummed any internals up (40+years experience with it).
While I am not a huge Remoil guy, I have not had any negative experiences with it, but never used it on a regular steady basis. Since Rig #2 oil has been discontinued, my go-to product is now Breakfree CLP. While it seems excellent, I use it sparingly inside a revolver as it is a bit thicker than the Rig #2.
Up to about 3 years ago my go to product for inside a revolver was Rig #2 Oil. After using it for 40+ years I'd highly recommend it! Unfortunately the new company bought Birchwood Casey has discontinued it. I still have a few cans and will still use it inside revolvers until it's gone. IMHO it was an excellent product and never gummed any internals up (40+years experience with it).
While I am not a huge Remoil guy, I have not had any negative experiences with it, but never used it on a regular steady basis. Since Rig #2 oil has been discontinued, my go-to product is now Breakfree CLP. While it seems excellent, I use it sparingly inside a revolver as it is a bit thicker than the Rig #2.
If you are lamenting your favorite light oil no longer being available, check out Blue Juice at musical instrument stores. I've been using it now for about ten years and get along nicely with it. If I want something heavier I use Marvel's mystery oil. ANY lubricant should be thoroughly removed and the gun cleaned to bare metal, on a regular basis, since all lubes hold grit and grime, too one extent or another.
I've also used Rem-oil in the past, with no great regret. WD40 is good for garage doors, maybe, but not for revolvers!
I've also used Rem-oil in the past, with no great regret. WD40 is good for garage doors, maybe, but not for revolvers!
gwpercle
Member
I don't have a problem spraying a little RemOil into the action of a revolver . Never had RemOil go gummy on me like some popular CLP's .
RemOil tends to dissapate over time and leave a film of micro-Teflon particles for lubrication .
Another good spray lube is Dry Lube , Teflon particles in a carrier , the carrier evaporates and leaves a dry Teflon film of Lubricant ...
Never had any Dry Lube go gummy like Shooters Choice did on me .
Gary
RemOil tends to dissapate over time and leave a film of micro-Teflon particles for lubrication .
Another good spray lube is Dry Lube , Teflon particles in a carrier , the carrier evaporates and leaves a dry Teflon film of Lubricant ...
Never had any Dry Lube go gummy like Shooters Choice did on me .
Gary
For those who like WD-40 and do not know why to not use it on firearms here is why.
WD-40 is not a lubricant product. It displaces water, WD= Water Displacement, 40th formula. It has a very small component of oil with the rest bing volatile compounds which are for penetrating and cleaning rust.
Within a relative short time it evaporates leaving a whitish coating which attracts crud, grime and other particles which will cause a firearm's moving parts to seize up or become difficult with their intended movement and you will be in the same as or worse position than before you used WD-40.
It is a very good product for which it was designed but not as a lubricant.
MartyD
WD-40 is not a lubricant product. It displaces water, WD= Water Displacement, 40th formula. It has a very small component of oil with the rest bing volatile compounds which are for penetrating and cleaning rust.
Within a relative short time it evaporates leaving a whitish coating which attracts crud, grime and other particles which will cause a firearm's moving parts to seize up or become difficult with their intended movement and you will be in the same as or worse position than before you used WD-40.
It is a very good product for which it was designed but not as a lubricant.
MartyD
From the WD40 website:
While the "W-D" in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
If no other lube was available I have no problem using WD short term.
Pro bike riders, as in current and former Tour de France etc etc, use it on their bike chains/chainrings/gear clusters, to keep the beach sand to a minimum when training in South Florida.
Rem and Hoppe's oil used on firearms.
I have washed away sawdust with WD40 after filing/carving/sanding stocks to final shape and then oiled properly.
Need to remember to always keep the Scuba tanks full now that I'm retired.
Dive shop buddy set them up (regulators etc) for airbrushing, tire filling and other chores on boats/home.
Airbrush compressor and a brush works kinda okay.
While the "W-D" in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
If no other lube was available I have no problem using WD short term.
Pro bike riders, as in current and former Tour de France etc etc, use it on their bike chains/chainrings/gear clusters, to keep the beach sand to a minimum when training in South Florida.
Rem and Hoppe's oil used on firearms.
I have washed away sawdust with WD40 after filing/carving/sanding stocks to final shape and then oiled properly.
Need to remember to always keep the Scuba tanks full now that I'm retired.
Dive shop buddy set them up (regulators etc) for airbrushing, tire filling and other chores on boats/home.
Airbrush compressor and a brush works kinda okay.
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In no way do I put down WD-40 as a useful product, I do have it on my shelf, but not as a lubricant.
In all fairness I suspect cyclists use WD's "Specialist Bike Chain Lube" not regular WD-40, I could be wrong on this.
WD-40 has many different products under the WD-40 name.
In all fairness I suspect cyclists use WD's "Specialist Bike Chain Lube" not regular WD-40, I could be wrong on this.
WD-40 has many different products under the WD-40 name.
We used and still use regular WD40 on bikes in South Florida.
Theirs and others newer stuff is thicker and attracts more sand than the original WD.
No reason to trash Campy and DuraAce prematurely. $$$$$
Lotsa new stuff available these days and some require batteries.
And Reynolds 531 will still get you from point A to Beer.
Bikes are kept as clean as our firearms.
WD applied to clean components before and after rides.
We live close to the Swamp and beach sand appears on our driveway magically.
When up North we use a thicker lube.
Theirs and others newer stuff is thicker and attracts more sand than the original WD.
No reason to trash Campy and DuraAce prematurely. $$$$$
Lotsa new stuff available these days and some require batteries.
And Reynolds 531 will still get you from point A to Beer.
Bikes are kept as clean as our firearms.
WD applied to clean components before and after rides.
We live close to the Swamp and beach sand appears on our driveway magically.
When up North we use a thicker lube.
