Lubrication for aluminum frame 3rd gens

Rifleman762

Rifleman762

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I'll start this out by saying all my 3rd gen .45s are steel framed. However my boss told me he is going to start carrying his 4563 again, and that got me thinking. I remember reading somewhere that operators should use grease on this aluminum frames to reduce excessive wear. Is this correct? What do you guys recommend?
 
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Moly grease

I would recommend a high moly content grease. Not wheel bearing @~3% but 50+%. I bought mine from air rifle headquarters. But Honda offers a version and I believe valvoline does as well.

It bonds to the metal and is incredibly slick, you just use a small amount. It doesn't get gummy over time, and I use it on internals as well for a poor mans trigger job.
 
I use and recommend Lubriplate SFL-0. One can for $15 will last a long time. I did a LOT of research; reading tests and evals from people smarter and more sciency than me. My unscientific test included rubbing a glob of it between my thumb and finger while running my hand under hot water- the Lubriplate stayed on my hand and lubed, it didn't wash off. It's also nontoxic and doesn't stain, something I couldn't say about my previous grease- gunslick. Make like you're justifying a new gun to your wife and lay it on thick.
 
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I use some polyurea grease I bought to lube the bottom bracket of my bikes. Or CLP, in a pinch. I feel grease is better, though.
 
One issue involved with aluminum frame pistols is galling where in contact and bearing against the steel slide. Good lubrication is a necessity.

Years ago a very experienced competition shooter showed me how he lubricates his semi-auto pistols. Using a #2 pencil the bearing surfaces are heavily coated with graphite. This provides excellent lubrication without the tendencies of oils or greases to collect dust, grit, lint, and powder residue.

I have been doing this for well over 30 years on pistols for law enforcement use, concealed carry, and competition. It works very well, and #2 pencils are about a buck per dozen.
 
I think it was an LAPD armorer who advised me that oil does not adhere well to s&w aluminum frames.

I use TW25b grease on mine. I follow "florks lube reccomendations" a guide that is a sticky on another gun board which deals with Sig pistols. ;)

I've many rounds through my aluminum framed 3rd gens with no issues using TW25b.

The 4563TSW may be the perfect LE duty 45. I had a nice one. Slicked up by my gunsmith with a spurless hammer and the rail removed. Great pistol. So of course, like an idiot, I sold it. Oh well, hopefully I will come across another. Regards 18DAI
 
TW25b for me too. Seems like I read somewhere.that the military selected that lube after their own extensive testing.

I may have to give the pencil lead a try though, sounds interesting, and I know it's slick. Curious about how long it will stay put.
 
after using the last of my jar of "slide glide" (which worked well and I liked it)....I switched to the Lubriplate moly also....the maintenance gurus in my former profession (mining) swore by it;):D
 
Granite6 said:
I would recommend a high moly content grease. Not wheel bearing @~3% but 50+%. I bought mine from air rifle headquarters. But Honda offers a version and I believe valvoline does as well.

It bonds to the metal and is incredibly slick, you just use a small amount. It doesn't get gummy over time, and I use it on internals as well for a poor mans trigger job.
Click to expand...

Air Rifle Headquarters: Isn't that Jim Maccari's web store?
I've bought springs, tune kits, and lubes from him. A bunch of them.
In fact, I need to order seals and tune kit for my Diana 48.
During the Obama panics, I shot my air guns a lot more than my powder burners, since pellets and BBs were in abundant supply, and cheap.
 
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kraynky said:
TW25b for me too. Seems like I read somewhere.that the military selected that lube after their own extensive testing.

I may have to give the pencil lead a try though, sounds interesting, and I know it's slick. Curious about how long it will stay put.
Click to expand...

Me three... TW25b, and just like what the old Briycreem commercial used to say (wow.. am I ever dating myself by quoting that)... "a little dab will do ya".
 
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I use Lubriplate 105 assembly grease. It was originally designed as engine assembly lube, but works well for other things too. There are actually two different tube designs. One tube has pictures of car engines, boats, and some other stuff on it. The other has similar pictures, but one of them is of a firearm.

The contents are the same though.
 
Years ago, I read about reliability issues with M59s.
Were those inherent in the design, or were they an issue with individual cleaning/lubing techniques (or lack of)?

I can't see a reason why the 39 would be reliable but a double stack version of the same gun would not, unless it had to do with magazine issues.
 
I always put a thin coat of Wal-Mart Super Tech Extreme Pressure Multi-Duty Complex Hi Temp Grease on all my slides/ slide rails.

It's the pink stuff. Call me crazy but it works for me. It's cheap and one tub will last forever.
 
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Shoo2tr said:
I always put a thin coat of Wal-Mart Super Tech Extreme Pressure Multi-Duty Complex Hi Temp Grease on all my slides/ slide rails.

It's the pink stuff. Call me crazy but it works for me. It's cheap and one tub will last forever.
Click to expand...


Your crazy! LOL
Sorry, I had to say it. If it works for you, and you are happy with the results.[emoji106]
 
Several times yearly I unload my alloy frame .45's and put several drops of Break Free on the back of the slide where it meets the frame. Then I work the slide a few times. This has worked for me quite well ever since I bought the pistols new.
 
Thanks for the advice and comments everyone. Lots of good info here. Like I said, all my 3rd gen .45s are steel on steel. I shoot them ALOT, and was concerned about excessive wear the aluminum frames versions. I'm sure I'll pick one up sooner or later.

I will pass this info on to guys I see carrying aluminum frame 3rd gens. Thanks again.
 
Great thread. I used a concoction of TW-25B mixed with graphite grease. It sticks and offers quite a bit of lube where you want it without becoming gummy.

It does stain clothes however...
 
In the late 80's I met an old timer who recommended Rig +P Stainless Steel Grease for a recently Hard Chromed 1911 that I was using on duty. I bought a small jar & am still using it on most semi-auto rails. It has worked well for me in all applications.
 
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Mtnfolk325 said:
In the late 80's I met an old timer who recommended Rig +P Stainless Steel Grease for a recently Hard Chromed 1911 that I was using on duty. I bought a small jar & am still using it on most semi-auto rails. It has worked well for me in all applications.
Click to expand...

Your thread reminded me that I also bought a small jar of the Rig +P lube back in the late 80's or early 90's, a little goes a long way. It's pretty good stuff,..........wonder where I put it? Seems like it was a small white jar with a black and yellow label,........right ????
 
I've been using Slide-Glide for close to 10 years. Keeps my aluminum frames looking like new.
 
Just a heads-up.....use caution when appying these "heavier" lubricants to firearms and then subjecting them to extreme cold temperatures. You'll notice on the Enos product, the material comes in three different grades, and the grades are rated by "temperature"....30+, 60+, and 80+.
On an everyday carry gun, particularly if you live in a cold climate, keep in mind these heavier viscosity lubricants can comprimise function if you have to be outdoors, or are stuck outdoors for some reason.
In these conditions it would be better to use a "dry" lube, or a synthetic that is rated to flow, even in inclement conditions.
 
I was told several years ago that all the "new" and expensive gun lubes were just one or another lubriplate product repackaged into smaller tubes and sold at a huge mark-up. I can't say for certain it's true, but many sure seem to look the same.
 
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