Lubrication for aluminum frame 3rd gens

[Rifleman762]

Thanks for the advice and comments everyone. Lots of good info here. Like I said, all my 3rd gen .45s are steel on steel. I shoot them ALOT, and was concerned about excessive wear the aluminum frames versions. I'm sure I'll pick one up sooner or later.

I will pass this info on to guys I see carrying aluminum frame 3rd gens. Thanks again.

 

[gtoppcop]

Great thread. I used a concoction of TW-25B mixed with graphite grease. It sticks and offers quite a bit of lube where you want it without becoming gummy.

It does stain clothes however...

 

[Mtnfolk325]

In the late 80's I met an old timer who recommended Rig +P Stainless Steel Grease for a recently Hard Chromed 1911 that I was using on duty. I bought a small jar & am still using it on most semi-auto rails. It has worked well for me in all applications.

 

[swinokur]

TW25b hare as well

works well-no issues

 

[kraynky]

In the late 80's I met an old timer who recommended Rig +P Stainless Steel Grease for a recently Hard Chromed 1911 that I was using on duty. I bought a small jar & am still using it on most semi-auto rails. It has worked well for me in all applications.

Your thread reminded me that I also bought a small jar of the Rig +P lube back in the late 80's or early 90's, a little goes a long way. It's pretty good stuff,..........wonder where I put it? Seems like it was a small white jar with a black and yellow label,........right ????

 

[ExiledvikingII]

I've been using Slide-Glide for close to 10 years. Keeps my aluminum frames looking like new.

 

[armorer951]

Just a heads-up.....use caution when appying these "heavier" lubricants to firearms and then subjecting them to extreme cold temperatures. You'll notice on the Enos product, the material comes in three different grades, and the grades are rated by "temperature"....30+, 60+, and 80+.
On an everyday carry gun, particularly if you live in a cold climate, keep in mind these heavier viscosity lubricants can comprimise function if you have to be outdoors, or are stuck outdoors for some reason.
In these conditions it would be better to use a "dry" lube, or a synthetic that is rated to flow, even in inclement conditions.

 

[Mainsail]

I was told several years ago that all the "new" and expensive gun lubes were just one or another lubriplate product repackaged into smaller tubes and sold at a huge mark-up. I can't say for certain it's true, but many sure seem to look the same.

 

[N4KVE]

No problem with grease here in Florida where it might get below 50 3 days a year. Today, it's 90. GARY

 

[gunhobbit]

A little dab of Tetra Gun Grease. Thinking I want to give the Lubriplate a try, though.

 

[DanP7]

Shooters choice grease for me. I'd use tetra or tw25b if I had it on hand.

 

[VTHokiesDuckHunter]

In the late 80's I met an old timer who recommended Rig +P Stainless Steel Grease for a recently Hard Chromed 1911 that I was using on duty. I bought a small jar & am still using it on most semi-auto rails. It has worked well for me in all applications.

That's all I use. Great stuff. I believe the Rig +P is specifically formulated for stainless, and works great on alloy and carbon frames/slides as well.

Regular Rig grease works about as well and looks almost the same.

And yes, it comes in a short, fat white plastic canister with with yellow and black markings. I've also seen it in tubes.

And no, you shouldn't rely on oil, CLP, or pencil lead. You need a good grease. (Some of the other mentioned greases and Moly greases are very good).

A key thing with grease is to clean it off when it gets dirty and apply a fresh coat, as it can trap grit and stuff. Typically on guns you need grease on bearing and sliding surfaces (slides on pistols: bearing surfaces and hinge pins on O/U's; etc) and a light coat of oil type lubricants on other moving parts.

 

[kantuck]

I agree with the above fully. It's no leap of logic to know that a #2 pencil ain't gonna leave much of a trace of "anything" on the slide! try and write with even a soft pencil on something that hard and slick and see what happens. That person that said that was a better shooter than a lube engineer? Kind of like race cars-some drive em & some fix em.
I'm using moly on mine.

 

[chaparrito]

The tw25b was sent in a sample size with a new Sig I bought and it's good stuff. But boy does it COST. I use lubriplate now and it's every bit as good and a fraction of the price.

 

[sandspur6]

I guess I'm just old school. (Well, old anyway.) I've got lots of Lubriplate 130-A for my military rifles, so I just use it in my pistols, too. Works just fine.

 

[Scotter260]

Cheap and easy to get - Lubriplate 105 at NAPA - should be $8ish for a tube that'll last until Rapture.

 

[kantuck]

Honda is also mentioned above by me & others-they have a MC & a marine moly lube that is as slick as it gets and stays put too! MC versions in my toolbox.
BMW MC mechanics like moly/grease products on a certain few applications with similar situ to the alloy frame pistol.
I'll agree that lubriplate is less $ and will serve the purpose as well!
But we could start a "which is slicker", "lasts longer", "stays on better"- "graphite vs. molykote war"