M&P 2.0 Compact Question

Old cop

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I’ve had my 2.0 9MM for about a year, 300 + rounds of flawless operation, but still cannot drop the slide from the right side of the frame. Even the slide stop/release on the left side is still pretty stiff. As a leftie I initially learned to slingshot the slide on my old Glock service weapon when reloading, but prefer using the lock/release. No matter how hard I press on the right side slide stop/release it’s a no-go.

Does anyone have a similar experience and if so is there a fix or a hack that will solve it? I’ve shot a friend’s Gen 5 Glock 19 and that right side slide lock/release works easily.
 
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I had the same experience with my 2.0 when I had it. I never found a fix for it. I eventually traded it in for a P365 XL. Not for the slide release issue but because I had too many 9mm Compacts. I loved the gun totally reliable and a great shooter.



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Why do you struggle with it? Is there too much friction on the right lever engagement with the slide, but the left lever drops easily?

If too much friction is the problem, reduce the friction. The slide stop is a stamped part and therefore has sharp edges that grab the slide notch.

Remove the slide. Raise the slide stop lever above the frame. Use a fine nail file, or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper to lightly sand the mating surface of the stop. Go easy. You can always go back to do it a little more. You may need to do the same for the left side also. You are looking to remove sharp edges and polish the slide stop face. Add grease to the surfaces. Test. Repeat until it is easy for you to use.
 
Yep. It’s just the nature of the beast. Even the reviews when the 2.0 first came out mentioned this. The slide stop is inoperable on the right side.
 
Yep. It’s just the nature of the beast. Even the reviews when the 2.0 first came out mentioned this. The slide stop is inoperable on the right side.

Thanks to everyone for the input. I just wanted to ensure my 2.0 was not unique and will continue to slingshot the slide.
 
...

Remove the slide. Raise the slide stop lever above the frame. Use a fine nail file, or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper to lightly sand the mating surface of the stop. Go easy. You can always go back to do it a little more. You may need to do the same for the left side also. You are looking to remove sharp edges and polish the slide stop face. Add grease to the surfaces. Test. Repeat until it is easy for you to use.

Also, check out this thread on the topic. Picked up an M&P 2.0 Compact today, Lefty ?
 
I'm a lefty as well. I bought a 2.0 subcompact. When it was new, the slide stop was stiff on the right side like yours. I forced it down with both thumbs on virtually every reload through the first 600 rounds or so. It has now loosened up quite a bit, and I can operate it easily with just my left thumb.
 
Also, check out this thread on the topic. Picked up an M&P 2.0 Compact today, Lefty ?

Tried this last night while watching TV and the left side (for RH shooters) is a bit better but no difference otherwise. Guess I’ll have to suffer through shooting it a lot more. Shouldn’t be a burden since I’m shooting twice a month while training my new shooter neighbor.
 
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OK guys. I've just finished my procedure to make slide stop lever to be slide release lever for lefties.
I've followed all recommendations found here and on YouTube. First of all - my M&P9 M2 has never been fired. I wanted to see if anything can be done before "break in period".
So....
1. I permanently removed slide stop plunger (was not needed in M1.0, I don't see any reason to have it in M2.0)
2. Friction - I took the lever out completely from the frame to work on it. I used sand paper 800, 1200 and finished with Flitz polishing paste. Every part riding on other handgun parts were mirror like shiny.
Result: still very hard to release the slide with left hand. However very easy to do this with right hand.
3. Filing the bump which sits in slide gap helped a lot. It has to be done very precisely. If you file too much - slide won't lock back anymore.
This also came with auto forward. Once I slammed the mag, it chambered the round. Cool.. That was exactly what I was expecting. :)

PS. The left side of slide lock lever (for right handed) is more sensitive that the other by default. You need more leverage being lefty so you have to be careful doing these adjustments. Once you are OK for left hand... it's better do not put any pressure on slide release on the other side. It releases very, very easily. :rolleyes:
 
Pulling the slide all the way to the rear, then letting it go (slingshot) is the best method for releasing the slide stop on a pistol. Just saying.

Unless one's non-shooting hand in occupied in the very unfortunate event one needs to use their firearm in self-defense. You might as well make sure all your options are available if you have it on your hip for emergency use. But yes, I was taught to "never" use the slide release to drop the slide on a round.
 
OK guys. I've just finished my procedure to make slide stop lever to be slide release lever for lefties.
I've followed all recommendations found here and on YouTube. First of all - my M&P9 M2 has never been fired. I wanted to see if anything can be done before "break in period".
So....
1. I permanently removed slide stop plunger (was not needed in M1.0, I don't see any reason to have it in M2.0)
2. Friction - I took the lever out completely from the frame to work on it. I used sand paper 800, 1200 and finished with Flitz polishing paste. Every part riding on other handgun parts were mirror like shiny.
Result: still very hard to release the slide with left hand. However very easy to do this with right hand.
3. Filing the bump which sits in slide gap helped a lot. It has to be done very precisely. If you file too much - slide won't lock back anymore.
This also came with auto forward. Once I slammed the mag, it chambered the round. Cool.. That was exactly what I was expecting. :)

PS. The left side of slide lock lever (for right handed) is more sensitive that the other by default. You need more leverage being lefty so you have to be careful doing these adjustments. Once you are OK for left hand... it's better do not put any pressure on slide release on the other side. It releases very, very easily. :rolleyes:

My concern would be this. If you “pre wear” the stop mechanism by sanding and polishing. To the point that insertion of a mag will allow the slide forward. How long will it be in use before the stop wears down more and it will no longer hold the slide open when empty?

If you are not using the weapon for self defense, then it is no big deal. But do you really want the failure of the slide to not hold back in a tactical reload situation in a real defensive fight?

I guess everyone has to make up their own mind on this.

I for one am training to use the slingshot method. As this muscle memory will work on virtually EVERY weapon made. Even those where the slide release lever works. I personally prefer this “universal” method and I will not have to “re-train” and use different techniques with different weapons or when a new weapon is introduced into my rotation over time.

This is just my preference. Your mileage will vary!
 
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<snip>
1. I permanently removed slide stop plunger (was not needed in M1.0, I don't see any reason to have it in M2.0)
<snip>

<snip>
This also came with auto forward. Once I slammed the mag, it chambered the round. Cool.. That was exactly what I was expecting. :)

The 1.0 have a return spring to ensure the slide STOP remains down unless you or an empty mag pushes it up. Without a spring in the 2.0, the detent holds the STOP in place. With no spring, detent or even a little friction, what's to prevent the STOP from engaging mid-mag due to recoil and induce a malfunction?

"Auto-forward" was never a design feature. It didn't even work consistently.

As a range toy, no big deal IMO.
 
Sometimes I hate being a lefty! We have to adapt to so many injustices in this stupid right handed world! This is a common problem with the M&P 2.0 as stated in several posts and the tests that I read on this pistol as well. I carried a 1911 for many of my 36+years in LE and manipulated the mag release and slide stop with my index finger. I had a Glock Gen 4 19 that I just slingshotted.
I have now tried to convert to pistols, for the most part that have the option of utilizing the slide stop/slide release on the right side of the pistol although I never switch the mag release over. I have found that I can hit it just as easily with my index finger and easier than many right handed shooters can with their thumb. I have a Glock 45 that works just fine from either side but the M&P slide stop does not. I also found this to be true on the P-10C that I had for some time.
 
My concern would be this. If you “pre wear” the stop mechanism by sanding and polishing. To the point that insertion of a mag will allow the slide forward. How long will it be in use before the stop wears down more and it will no longer hold the slide open when empty?

If you are not using the weapon for self defense, then it is no big deal. But do you really want the failure of the slide to not hold back in a tactical reload situation in a real defensive fight?

I guess everyone has to make up their own mind on this.

I for one am training to use the slingshot method. As this muscle memory will work on virtually EVERY weapon made. Even those where the slide release lever works. I personally prefer this “universal” method and I will not have to “re-train” and use different techniques with different weapons or when a new weapon is introduced into my rotation over time.

This is just my preference. Your mileage will vary!

Agreed with your concerns.
I was trying to show that whatever is done - will never make this handgun different.
I ended up with slide lever polished only (I'm not going to use this one which I filed). I'm hoping it will be less stiff after thousands rounds...
And yes - this is for RANGE and CLASSES only. Every responsible firearm owner knows to keep carry gun's action close to the factory setup ;)
 
The 1.0 have a return spring to ensure the slide STOP remains down unless you or an empty mag pushes it up. Without a spring in the 2.0, the detent holds the STOP in place. With no spring, detent or even a little friction, what's to prevent the STOP from engaging mid-mag due to recoil and induce a malfunction?
As a range toy, no big deal IMO.

This change in M2 supposed to "fix" auto forward existing in M1 version. Looks the Officials didn't like this feature... :D
Anyway the slide lever works much better for me WITHOUT this small piece. I still have positive ON, OFF - but everything works smoother now.

It's time to load live ammo and shoot the tool !:o
 
My concern would be this. If you “pre wear” the stop mechanism by sanding and polishing. To the point that insertion of a mag will allow the slide forward. How long will it be in use before the stop wears down more and it will no longer hold the slide open when empty?

Having adjusted slide stops to auto-forward on almost two dozen pistols from various manufacturers and shot most of them for thousands of rounds, I can assure you this is not an issue. Once a proper adjustment is dialed in, the two mating surfaces actually engage more than the OEM offerings, providing sufficient friction to hold the slide back without the stop lever slipping down. The action of depressing the lever is made easier because of polishing, not because of reducing friction alone. I have not found enough further wear between the two, smooth mating surfaces to change the function.

If it were to become an issue, simply roughing up the slide stop engagement surface, IOW adding back a little friction, would solve the problem in a few minutes. If the failure occurred at the worst time, the response is simply a trained failure drill. Remove (empty) mag; insert loaded mag; overhand rack slide.

When talking about slide stop/release manipulations, I find it helpful to use correct terminology. The "slingshot" method of retracting the slide describes pinching the rear of the slide between the thumb and forefinger, as if shooting a slingshot, to retract the slide. This is rarely what is taught nowadays for defensive manipulations.

Rather, the "Overhand" method is what is commonly taught. The slide is gripped with the lower palm and the opposing fingers of the off hand. This gives more friction and generally allows for a firmer grip, especially when pulling against stiff recoil springs.

The nit picking over slide "stop" vs. "release" is the same. We generally know what a person means using either term, but clear technical writing helps everyone understand the action description the same way.

Auto forward has never failed to load a round from a loaded mag, slide locked back, for me in a defensive gun. However, I've had some failures to feed in .22 pistols using this method. Releasing the slide using the adjusted stop as a release always works. Using the overhand or slingshot method always works.

Despite using the auto-forward method successfully, I also hit the slide stop with my off hand thumb on the way to reacquiring my two handed grip. If the slide does not drop from simply inserting the mag smartly, dropping the stop definitely releases it. If it still does not release my default is the overhand method, just as it would be for any malfunction.

The need for a speed slide locked reload in a civilian gunfight is extremely small. Practicing it is useful, but it is a lower priority for me than the many other more important skills needed while emptying that mag.

When being concerned with speed, nothing is faster than auto-forward, as long as it is reliable. Most people refuse to do it because they can't imagine it can be so quick and reliable.

The next fastest way to a reload is dropping the slide stop while reacquiring a firing grip. It is the method used by almost all competitors and many tactical folks.

The slowest method of releasing the slide is to take the extra time and movement of the offhand to overhand or pinch the slide. Especially the overhand method is not foolproof, as it can result in "riding" the slide, getting something (glove, skin) caught in the ejection port, and for some guns is made more difficult by sharp, tall rear sights or a red dot sight. Nothing is foolproof. No one method is right. What works for you is what is right.

Auto-forwarding works reliably for me. The back up use of the slide stop as a release guarantees that the slide will go forward, barring some other unforeseen interference. I wont buy a FS 2.0 M&P because of the company's mechanical interference with the various, appropriate and reliable alternate uses of the slide stop lever. Forcing me to change my reload method of over 20 years is something I do not like. No other manufacturer does it. It is not a feature; it is a poorly contrived, unnecessary inconvenience.
 

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