M&P 340 Hoppes? Oiling internals??

[Jerryatric3]

Picked up my M&P 340 last night. Read the manual (surprising eh?). Page 32 ... "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any Smith and Wesson firearm." Page 31 and 32 ... "After cleaning, lightly coat the metal parts, internal and external with a high quality gun oil." Two questions:
1. I only use Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil. Hoppes 9 contains ammonia. Safe to use????
2. How do you coat internal parts with gun oil???? I've never lubed internals on my revolvers.
I need to be educated....

 

[Amp]

Nice gun, I have one too.
Have not noticed an issue using Hoppes to clean mine. Nor have I opened it to oil internals.
Still shoot great.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I can't speak to the Hoppes issue as I use Break Free CLP for cleaning and it meets my needs.

As far as oiling a Centennial's internals, here's what I do. First, make sure the gun is empty. Hold the gun upside down with the muzzle in a safe direction. Add one drop of oil to each side of the trigger where it meets the opening in the frame. Let capillary action draw the lube inside. Then cycle the action about a dozen times with the gun still upside down and the muzzle still in a safe direction. This will distribute lube inside without having to open the sideplate. Wipe off any excess.

There are a few other points to lube. A revolver doesn't require a lot of lube. My gun gets lubed when I clean the gun, which is after each range session or every 1-2 months, whichever comes first. When I clean the gun I put a drop of CLP on a patch and use that to wipe down the external steel components, followed by a wipe down with a dry rag.

Others may (or likely will) have different approaches/philosophies regarding lubing a revolver, and they're not necessarily wrong, better, or worse, but this is what I do and it works for me.

 

[GCF]

I like to use Hoppes #9 on my stainless guns, but refrain from use on my M&P340. Others have said they use it in moderation, w/ no problems.

On stainless, & blued guns, I also like to use spray solvents - but avoid them LIKE THE PLAGUE, on coated guns...

To clean copper fouling from the bore, I use BoreTech, & follow up w/ BreakFree CLP. Also use the BF CLP to remove powder fouling on the coated surfaces, & cylinder chambers. Applied w/ a blue paper shop towel, w/ a bit of light scrubbing - from a well worn, soft tooth brush. Seems to work out OK, w/ no issues to date.

The coating on the M&P340 (IonBond??), seems quite durable - to date.

Unless the action seems dry, or rough, I'd suggest a bunch of dry firing (I use snap caps), maybe 200 - 300+, before worrying about dis-assembly for internal lubrication. My D/A break was pretty heavy initially, but has improved substantially, w/ use.

After some prerequisite dry firing (& maybe a couple of range sessions), I always remove the side cover, hammer, rebound slide, & trigger - on newly acquired revolvers, for an initial cleaning & lubrication. When re-installing the internal parts, I usually use a few drops of Mobile 1, but BF CLP, or RemOil will work fine also.

For the record, I ordered a Brownells reduced power spring kit (Wolff springs), but only replaced the rebound spring. The main spring in the kit seemed to match the factory MS in weight, so I left it alone - for reliability.

The extended firing, the C&L, & the replacement RB spring, all went a long way towards smoothing up the action.

Enjoy your new pistola, I wouldn't want to do without mine!

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Ammoniated solvents are not a problem unless you leave it lay on the finish. Use what you want but wipe it off after use.

 

[armorer951]

From the standpoint of a factory armorer, I find it interesting that despite the fact that S&W warns users in writing not to use ammoniated solvents and other harsh solvents, and the fact that there are many, many safer alternatives, gun owners use these products anyway.

 

[Jerryatric3]

From the standpoint of a factory armorer, I find it interesting that despite the fact that S&W warns users in writing not to use ammoniated solvents and other harsh solvents, and the fact that there are many, many safer alternatives, gun owners use these products anyway.

OK, you have my attention. Recommendations?? Been looking at Ballistol ("slightly alkaline")???

 

[armorer951]

Break Free CLP liquid, Frog Lube liquid, M-Pro7, Gunzilla, Lucas Extreme Duty products, including CLP.....the list goes on ad infinitum.


Sounds cliche, but the most important thing is to USE THEM.....and......follow label the manufacturer's instructions and warnings. They are written to protect you and your firearms from harm.

 

[alexrex20]

The only thing I lube on my 340 is the cylinder yolk and ejector rod.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[alexrex20]

From the standpoint of a factory armorer, I find it interesting that despite the fact that S&W warns users in writing not to use ammoniated solvents and other harsh solvents, and the fact that there are many, many safer alternatives, gun owners use these products anyway.

Lawyer talk. I use ammoniated Brakleen to clean my guns, even the polymer ones. Just keep it off the wood and everything is fine. Lube with Ballistol afterward.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

 

[muddocktor]

The only thing I lube on my 340 is the cylinder yolk and ejector rod.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

What, you use egg on your ejector rod?

It is a YOKE, not a yolk.

@ the OP, the latest manufactured S&W I own with a blue finish is a 1991 27-5 and I use Hoppes #9 with no problems on it. But I have also read too many posts here with newer blue finish S&W revolvers that have had problems with Hoppes #9 or other harsh, ammoniated solvents doing damage to the blue finish. So I would recommend sticking with one that doesn't contain ammonia such as armorer951 has recommended.

 

[Jerryatric3]

When the manual refers to "coating the internal parts" with oil ya think they are referring to barrel and chambers? Can't really mean the "real" internal parts???

 

[muddocktor]

Jerryatric3, a lot of folks don't do it, but I am a firm believer in occasionally pulling off the sideplate and cleaning and very lightly lubing the internals. If you decide to do this, get a proper set of hollow ground screwdrivers like Midway and other online shops sell before attempting to remove the sideplate so that you don't booger up the screw heads. And after removing the screws, don't try to pry up the sideplate as it is a fitted part. I use my plastic screwdriver handle to tap on the frame until the sideplate pops up. As for lubing, I only use 2-3 drops of a quality gun oil after spraying it out with something like brake cleaner. You can look on YouTube for videos on how to remove the sideplate if you have questions.

 

[Jerryatric3]

Jerryatric3, a lot of folks don't do it, but I am a firm believer in occasionally pulling off the sideplate and cleaning and very lightly lubing the internals. If you decide to do this, get a proper set of hollow ground screwdrivers like Midway and other online shops sell before attempting to remove the sideplate so that you don't booger up the screw heads. And after removing the screws, don't try to pry up the sideplate as it is a fitted part. I use my plastic screwdriver handle to tap on the frame until the sideplate pops up. As for lubing, I only use 2-3 drops of a quality gun oil after spraying it out with something like brake cleaner. You can look on YouTube for videos on how to remove the sideplate if you have questions.

Why I'm asking is because the manual says to do this as part of the cleaning process. Don't think S&W even condones removing the side plate....so....what are they saying when they say coat the internal metal with oil??? Where? How?

 

[muddocktor]

I would imagine that they are saying to lightly apply a coat of oil to the cylinders and bore, especially if you live in a humid climate and plan to store it for any length of time. You can apply a little oil to a patch after cleaning and run it through the barrel and in the charge holes of the cylinder. With that said, I never found any rust in the bores of my revolvers, pistols or long guns in my house without doing this so far on the ones I regularly use. I have done this with guns I shoot only once in a great while.

 

[Macinaw]

In my Steel Challenge competition revolvers, I take the stocks off. Spray the insides and outsides with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Then, spray with Rem Oil. Wipe down with a towel and run a bore snake through the cylinder chambers and barrel. Done.

Revolver used: M&P R8 (Aluminum & Scandium frame with Stainless Steel cylinder) OSR Category.
617 six inch stainless RFPI category.

 

[Jerryatric3]

Gonna move on....do what I've always done, and what most of you also do, with the exception oF not using Hoppes 9. Very disappointed in the M&P 340 manual....40 pages of legalese warnings and virtually nothing about the revolver itself. The attached picture of a page out of the manual is the ONLY mention of oiling and there is NOTHING about ongoing maintenance or teardown cleaning......

 

[gnystrom]

I have owned and carried a 340PD since they were introduced. Over the years it has been cleaned with everything from Frog Lube to a half dozen popular solvents followed with an immediate wipedown with a microfiber cloth. The only ones I have avoided (which also applies to all my guns), are the highly ammoniated products which work well, but if left on the metal too long can cause problems. No issues with the function or finish on the gun so far.
Side note; as a salesman on the road, this gun lived for years in the door pocket of my car winter-20° to summer +90° Minnesota climate without a lot of maintenance. Still looks great and shoots even better.