Why "titanium cylinders"?

I had a M&P 340 that I carried for many years and shot some but not a lot. It just was not pleasant to shoot. I recently traded it away and purchased a 649. I had never liked the humpbacks until now but it spoke to me and I really like it. It is much easier to shoot being all steel. The M&P 340 was of course a .357 and the 649 is a .38 but I never carried .357's in the M&P 340 and only shot a few cylinders of them just to remind myself that I didn't need to do that again!
 
Ha! Threw the bullsnot flag at first, 8shot; then I pulled out my 986, and sho' 'nuf, a .357" bullet fits snugly into the cylinder throat. Might explain a lot. Thank you!

If using lead bullets, you definitely want to stick with .357 or .358 bullets. Jacketed aren't quite as finicky when it comes to selecting the right size, but if you want good accuracy with lead they have to be sized correctly.
 
I'm not an engineer, so my observation isn't scientifically based. But here it is. I suspect the lighter titanium cylinder - with lower rotating mass - allows for quicker cycling (and possibly a lighter required trigger pull weight). Similar to a racing car using magnesium or aluminum wheels instead of steel wheels.


That is a very good analogy: using the reference as to the rotational mass on a vehicle...

Unsprung Weight is what we refer to the weight of the tires and wheels in this situation. The heavier a wheel/tire combo itself the harder it is to turn and stop. Going from heavier wheels to a light but strong aluminum alloy rim saved over 8lbs per wheel on an Supercharged V8 SUV we have. Just losing said 40+lbs in unsprung weight freed up a lot of Torque and Horsepower making this vehicle easily and noticeably faster than it ever was.

Also, the lighter rims boosts braking performance and shortened stopping distances too.

The same translates to the way a Revolver works for sure!
 
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That is a very good analogy: using the reference as to the rotational mass on a vehicle...

Unsprung Weight is what we refer to the weight of the tires and wheels in this situation. The heavier a wheel/tire combo itself the harder it is to turn and stop. Going from heavier wheels to a light but strong aluminum alloy rim saved over 8lbs per wheel on an Supercharged V8 SUV we have. Just losing said 40+lbs in unsprung weight freed up a lot of Torque and Horsepower making this vehicle easily and noticeably faster than it ever was.

Also, the lighter rims boosts braking performance and shortened stopping distances too.

Not to mention faster compliance to the undulating road surface, resulting in greater tire adhesion (traction).

Tires not in contact with the road cannot steer, brake, or accelerate. :eek:

The same translates to the way a Revolver works for sure!
 
I've got a 929 that I use for competition. Other then being careful what you use for solvent, I use Hoppes Elite, and using a nylon brush I don't see any issues with maintaining it. The lighter cylinder takes less force to get it turning.
^^^^^
This.
My 986 Pro is used for steel challenge.
Shot lots.
I just wipe the cylinder with MPro7. Sure, it gets smoky looking, but I'm not OCD on gun scrubbing.
No problems.
 
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Not to mention faster compliance to the undulating road surface, resulting in greater tire adhesion (traction).

Tires not in contact with the road cannot steer, brake, or accelerate. :eek:

Absolutely... There are certainly more physic factors than I mentioned other than boosted acceleration and braking performance using the Rim/Tire to Vehicle Un-sprung Weight Analogy. It's been postured that for every single pound of "Unsprung Weight" is like adding 10lbs of "Sprung Weight" in regards to account for rotational mass both starting and stopping.

It's like wearing 2lb ankle weights going for a run as opposed to going running with just your Nike's and socks. One can tell a difference immediately between the two experiences!

Not to think of other important aspects of equation such as tread contact reaction (that you mention) as well. Sometimes you can get free HP and TQ so to speak (by reducing rim/wheel weight), without spending major cash on re-gearing differentials (to account for bigger tires/rims) and having to up-size the caliper's with bigger/extra pistons, brakes, and greater rotor surface size area's to account for the extra-Force needed in order to run & stop bigger/heavier rims, wheels, and tires.

I've been into building and running Jeeps for almost 20 years (long before they come from factory like they do now) and the Tire/Wheel combo and their up-page that robs performance in acceleration and stopping and how to counteract such, (When Unmodified or Upgraded.)

The same applies to all rotating wheels, and surfaces such as Revolvers. I Love Revolvers and this site has allowed me to get exactly what I want and need and how to upgrade as follows from the knowledgeable guys here! Principals of Physics are Equal across the board whether talking about Revolver Cylinders and Vehicle Rims... Their weights, displacements, materials used, recessed cuts, etc...

-Hams
 
After seeing numerous Ti component failures during my cycling days I’d be very reluctant to use it in any areas subject to pressure or impacts on a firearm…
 
Marketing and re-inventing the wheel. All industries from guns to autos need to keep coming up with gimmicks to stay relative.. Back in the day competitive shooters had never heard of titanium.:p
 
Strength and light weight for the win; works for performace cars and firearms. I love my super light weight 360 PD for CCW.
 
I definitely see a potential use In competition. Just as using titanium valves in automobile engines to speed up revs, decreasing inertia in rotating the cylinders, faster pointing of the gun, etc. less mass is better. How much time this actually saves, I dont know, I havent done any research or studies on it.
Also, need to consider the latest is greatest phenomena, my gun is rarer and more special, etc etc. it sells guns
 
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