M&P 9 2.0 Compact with the new flat trigger shoe.

[Ruger Nut]

@Ruger Nut

His description:
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Please verify the product you are purchasing is for the correct M&P.



(1) Brand New Factory Smith & Wesson M&P Trigger Assembly (includes return spring)

UPDATED Optics Ready Trigger - No longer a hinged trigger

FITS M&P M2.0 9mm / 40S&W ONLY

FITS Full Size / Compact / SubCompact models

DOES NOT fit Shield or 45 handguns

Trigger bar is 2.0 specific, will not fit a 1.0. Trigger Shoe fits both 1.0 & M2.0

I have (5) LE trade in FS 1.0 M&P 40's. I want to add the new S&W flat trigger to one of my Hybrid M&P's (1.0 frame with a 2.0 SHB and 2.0 trigger bar and trigger).

 

[Tiribulus]

I have (5) LE trade in FS 1.0 M&P 40's. I want to add the new S&W flat trigger to one of my Hybrid M&P's (1.0 frame with a 2.0 SHB and 2.0 trigger bar and trigger).

You haven't tried the 2.0 SHB in the 1.0 frame with the 2.0 trigger bar yet?


Or you do already have the 2.0 SHB and the 2.0 trigger assembly in a 1.0 frame? If so, then the new one will work too. As long as it's 9 or 40 and not a Shield.

 

[Ruger Nut]

You haven't tried the 2.0 SHB in the 1.0 frame with the 2.0 trigger bar yet?


Or you do already have the 2.0 SHB and the 2.0 trigger assembly in a 1.0 frame? If so, then the new one will work too. As long as it's 9 or 40 and not a Shield.

Yes, I have a 2.0 SHB and 2.0 trigger assembly in one of my FS 1.0 M&P 40's.
Where can I buy just the trigger?

 

[Tiribulus]

Yes, I have a 2.0 SHB and 2.0 trigger assembly in one of my FS 1.0 M&P 40's.
Where can I buy just the trigger?

As far as I know, as of right now the only place I've seen them is at Freestone's Ebay store. He only had 3 and they're sold. The only reason I got one is because I hit him up in November as soon as I got the email from Smith and Wesson announcing the 10mm with the new trigger.



I'm not sure how to get just the trigger shoe and bar assembly at the moment. If you drop him a message at his store I'm sure he can fill you in on future availability, which I have to think is coming.

 

[TPD252]

https://i.imgur.com/1CpTx2n.mp4


This is only with the new shoe though. Same internals as the 2.0

Thanks for the vid! Looks like it breaks a little sooner.

 

[Tiribulus]

Thanks for the vid! Looks like it breaks a little sooner.

You bet
Actually, I made that video for a guy in the S&W group on Reddit so we could compare resets with his 10mm. So that vid was focused on the reset more than the take up, wall and break.



I'm quite happy with the performance of this pistol myself.

 

[TPD252]

You bet
Actually, I made that video for a guy in the S&W group on Reddit so we could compare resets with his 10mm. So that vid was focused on the reset more than the take up, wall and break.



I'm quite happy with the performance of this pistol myself.

I jumped on the 4" 2.0 OR compact when it came out, but that was before the new trigger made its debut. I'm a big fan of the Apex flat face, forward set triggers, with the only caveat being I wish it had a more positive reset. My question would be just go Apex again, or with the new Smith trigger, assuming I could obtain the parts.

 

[Tiribulus]

I jumped on the 4" 2.0 OR compact when it came out, but that was before the new trigger made its debut. I'm a big fan of the Apex flat face, forward set triggers, with the only caveat being I wish it had a more positive reset. My question would be just go Apex again, or with the new Smith trigger, assuming I could obtain the parts.

My compact has the same break and close to the reset as it did before. The bar and the rest of the internal parts are the same. The only difference is the shoe.


So if you like the way your trigger is now except for the hinged shoe then this would be for you. If you want to significantly change the take up, break or reset, more work and or parts will be necessary.


I reworked my striker block and thoroughly polished all the relevant contact parts in mine too. I haven't changed the sear because I'm happy with the way it is now.

I might prefer a bit less take up, but for me personally it isn't worth what it would cost and take to achieve that. It's good like it is.

 

[hardluk1]

Tried straight triggers from a couple company's and m&p new trigger and the new m&p trigger is nothing special for me ether so there not on my want list. We have 4 m&ps and 3 run apex curved trigger and kits . I find they have a tactical reset but reality is on the range I wear muffs and some times plugs too so Hearing a reset is a fools game and if you need your pistol to defend your self with I doubt you even feel the recoil much less the trigger pull and may not even hear it when shooting under stress . Many hunters also don't HEAR the bang when pulling a trigger at the time .

Some guys Follow the Reset when shooting . Better off with a short crisp SA trigger . OR you sweep the trigger , not slapping the trigger and useing this style of trigger pull that as still taught at top level training centers and by pro match shooters . you sweeping thru the trigger getting off it as sights start to settled but on a target area and you pull thru the trigger again. THis is used by shotgunners for skeet , trap or shotgun bird hunters for pulling the trigger. Feeling or hearing a reset matters little . Our m&ps have thumb safetys , factory or aftermarket m&p parts and trigger pulls are all adjusted into the mid 3lb range except a stock early M&P9c that has a apex striker block and some stoneing / polising done to the conncector . That ones trigger is nice at 4lb 2oz and was my wifes first striker fired 9mm and first double stack . We both carry tuned 1911's so these m&ps feel rather close to the same for trigger pull and we use the thumb safetys .

 

[TPD252]

My compact has the same break and close to the reset as it did before. The bar and the rest of the internal parts are the same. The only difference is the shoe.


So if you like the way your trigger is now except for the hinged shoe then this would be for you. If you want to significantly change the take up, break or reset, more work and or parts will be necessary.


I reworked my striker block and thoroughly polished all the relevant contact parts in mine too. I haven't changed the sear because I'm happy with the way it is now.

I might prefer a bit less take up, but for me personally it isn't worth what it would cost and take to achieve that. It's good like it is.

Good deal, thanks for the feedback.

 

[Tiribulus]

I have seen him on Ebay. He has lots of hard-to-find parts for M&P's, but lately his prices are a little too expensive for my blood. I was looking at a manual safety kit not too long ago, and he was asking almost $100 for that (this kit is worth $20 at best when it's in stock). I don't blame anyone for wanting to make money, but this is a little ridiculous.

60 BUCKS? maybe

 

[0849]

Looks like this is going to be the trigger going forward. Improved serrations too.

M&P®9 M2.0™ FULL SIZE 4.25" O.R.
17+1 capacity with flat-faced trigger, front slide serrations, and optics ready slide. Comes with or without slide safety.​

​

M&P®9 M2.0™ COMPACT 4" O.R.
15+1 capacity with flat-faced trigger, front slide serrations, and optics ready slide. Comes with or without slide safety.​

​

Is this trigger similar to the trigger on the new CSX ?

 

[Tiribulus]

Is this trigger similar to the trigger on the new CSX ?

No sir. Completely different.

 

[mscampbell2734]

So I called S&W today and the very polite lady on the phone said they do NOT sell any triggers for semi autos. Not the answer I was looking for.

 

[spiderdave]

Premature Wear of Armornite durable corrosion resistant finish

I finally got to the range to test fire my new S&W M&P9 M2.0 4". It shoots really nice. I ran a total of 45 (yes, 45 rounds) rounds thru the gun before I had to leave. Accuracy is great.
When I got to HB I noticed on the top and side of the chamber where it's stamped "9MM" that the Armonite finish has already started wearing off.
Is this normal?

 

[m&p2.0fdethumbsafety]

the front of the chamber where it impacts the slide will wear off, that's normal. the black is the color added to the nitriding process, the nitriding itself penetrates a bit deeper into the metal. i always keep that area well lubed and also add a dab of synthetic oil so that it doesn't drip off and keeps it from rusting if the wear gets too deep