m&p 9mm. dry fire using empty casings?

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p5200

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I have been trying to insert empty casings to dry fire practice with but, they don't seem to go all the way into the chamber. so the slide doesn't go all the way forward so the trigger will cock. can this even be done if so how, or am I wasting my time? I plan to get some snap caps also. Thanks! :)
 
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That's the way I was thinking but, searching the net I have seen some who said there have been broken strikers and other parts from dry firing. so I'm confused. :D Thanks! :)
 
A used case isn't going to do much good. Once the firing pin has hit the primer a few times, it's not really going to be contacting anything solid any more - the primer will just have a dent that the firing pin will fit into perfectly.

A snap cap is the way to go.
 
WaterburyBob said:
A used case isn't going to do much good. Once the firing pin has hit the primer a few times, it's not really going to be contacting anything solid any more - the primer will just have a dent that the firing pin will fit into perfectly.

A snap cap is the way to go.
Click to expand...
Well, that makes sense. Thanks! :)
 
Take a cartridge, knock out the primer, replace it with a whittled down pencil eraser (some mechanical pencil erasers are very near the right size) use a file or a grinder to mow off the rim of the cartridge the width of the extractor claw. Be certain to index the filed cartridge when inserting, to keep the filed area positioned correctly.
That way, you can short stroke the slide to charge the striker, it won't drag the cartridge out of the chamber, and the F/P will fall on the eraser. JOMO?
 
I guess because I like to give to any machine, treatment commensurate with it's level of importance?
And a machine that I may be using to ensure my survival, is quite likely to get treated better than a BIC lighter.
But, that's just me...
 
Smith Wesson service told me not to dry fire the MP when I called them a few years ago.
 
Snap caps are cheap or make your own. What if the striker failed when you were trying to shoot someone?
 
Spotteddog said:
Take a cartridge, knock out the primer, replace it with a whittled down pencil eraser (some mechanical pencil erasers are very near the right size) use a file or a grinder to mow off the rim of the cartridge the width of the extractor claw. Be certain to index the filed cartridge when inserting, to keep the filed area positioned correctly.
That way, you can short stroke the slide to charge the striker, it won't drag the cartridge out of the chamber, and the F/P will fall on the eraser. JOMO?
Click to expand...
I read on another forum about a fella who took an empty 12 gauge shotgun shell punched out the primer then, put silicone in to fill the primer hole for the pin to drop on. Do you think this might work on a 9mm casing as well? :)
 
Kanewpadle said:
Why are we discussing this?

Snap caps are inexpensive. Why take a chance? Go buy some and be done with it!
Click to expand...

+1. I use A-Zoom Caps and I really like them. Good choice.

I've used the shotgun chamber hone many times and I think it works quite well. Make sure to follow the instructions and keep the tool well oiled. Also, when you're done there will be a slurry of fine metal grindings and oil inside your chamber. THOROUGHLY clean out every last trace of the metal grindings or you will set yourself up for rust. I scrub and rinse the barrel with mineral spirits and brake cleaner afterwards at least twice. Then I treat the fresh metal with Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent. I've done this to about 35 shotguns that live outdoors in cars (PD guns) and it has not caused any problems with corrosion. Good luck.
 
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meh92 said:
+1. I use A-Zoom Caps and I really like them. Good choice.

I've used the shotgun chamber hone many times and I think it works quite well. Make sure to follow the instructions and keep the tool well oiled. Also, when you're done there will be a slurry of fine metal grindings and oil inside your chamber. THOROUGHLY clean out every last trace of the metal grindings or you will set yourself up for rust. I scrub and rinse the barrel with mineral spirits and brake cleaner afterwards at least twice. Then I treat the fresh metal with Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent. I've done this to about 35 shotguns that live outdoors in cars (PD guns) and it has not caused any problems with corrosion. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for the detailed directions. I have a can of Gun Scrubber will that be fine to rinse out with? Thanks Again! :)
 
For dry fire practice, after you unload your live ammo and magazines with live ammo put them out of reach. In another room, back in the gun safe etc....

Load your snap caps in an empty magazine and dry fire. When your done, your done. Load your live rounds and put the gun AWAY.

Interuptions during dry fire and having live ammo present have caused many negligent discharges. Be safe.
 
If you need to practice dry firing I would buy snap caps in the caliber of the firearm and use those as opposed to used cases.Just make sure that any live ammo is far away from the area where you dry fire.......
 
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