M&P dead trigger

cbr6864

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Newer 40c no modifications minus shaving the safety down. Went to range to empty my 3 carry mags and got a dead trigger on first pull and about every other pull. Not good this could have meant my life as up until today I use to carry it. Lost all faith in it. Anyone else have this issue on stock M&P?

As soon as I get it fixed I'm selling it if factory parts failed once they can fail again. Only about 400-500 rounds through the gun. Hate to do it as I love this gun many advantages over glock. But once a gun fails you it's hard to trust it ever again.

http://youtu.be/kZt_PYc2Tlc
 
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The dead trigger was an issue with early M&P's. IIRC, S&W replaces the sear block and spring when you send it in. You can bet your life on it once it's fixed.
 
Did you buy new or used?

Who shaved the safety?

Who put in the new sear block?

Does it have the S or H stamped trigger bar?
 
Did you buy new or used?

Who shaved the safety?

Who put in the new sear block?

Does it have the S or H stamped trigger bar?

1. Bought brand new from academy last year

2. I did...that huge gas pedal safety was way too floppy for a carry gun

3. No new sear block....bone stock

4. H stamp as I said it's the newer version


My only guess is the the trigger bar hoop somehow bent or wrapped in a way not allowing the sear to function properly. The entire design just seems to fragile, the slightest movement in the trigger hoop will cause the gun not to fire. Maybe the angle was never truly correct and after 400 or so rounds the sear somehow underwent the trigger hoop.
 
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I'm going to have to but honestly this shouldn't happen with a brand new gun. This could have cost me my life had I needed to use it. Luckily I make it a habit to empty all my carry mags once a month at the range or I would have never known until it was too late. My problem is that these are all factory parts all they are going to do is install the exact same factory parts.

Apparently the new sear design didn't fix the issue 100%
 
1. Bought brand new from academy last year

2. I did...that huge gas pedal safety was way too floppy for a carry gun

3. No new sear block....bone stock

4. H stamp as I said it's the newer version


My only guess is the the trigger bar hoop somehow bent or wrapped in a way not allowing the sear to function properly. The entire design just seems to fragile, the slightest movement in the trigger hoop will cause the gun not to fire. Maybe the angle was never truly correct and after 400 or so rounds the sear somehow underwent the trigger hoop.

this!!! it's the candy cane shaped hoop on the trigger bar....go to the Apex website and they have a video showing how to adjust it.
 
this!!! it's the candy cane shaped hoop on the trigger bar....go to the Apex website and they have a video showing how to adjust it.

My worry is excessive movement could further weaken and lead to failure. I'm going to ask S&W to send me a new one. Just want to let people know this can happen even with the new sear. Always check your carry guns for function every now and then.
 
Not good this could have meant my life as up until today I use to carry it. Lost all faith in it.

Not sure how much faith anyone can have with....

Only about 400-500 rounds through the gun. Hate to do it as I love this gun many advantages over glock. But once a gun fails you it's hard to trust it ever again.



Saying that... that's pretty harsh.

Got to bear in mind though, these guns are mass produced. There's going to occasionally be guns with problems... I guess you got one.
 
A dead trigger represents a total and complete failure of the gun. It's a carry gun it needs to function 100% of the time. A few FTFs every now and then is one thing as you can clear those but a dead trigger leaves you dead in the water.

I'm going to call them to see if they will send me a new trigger bar free of charge as I hate dealing with sending a gun in.
 
Just out of curiosity, with an EMPTY pistol & mag, what happens if you allow the trigger to recover a little more forward than you're doing in the video? Another click?
 
I watch the video of you problem. Did you remove the safety when you cut the other side off and filed it down? When you are squeezing the trigger I see what is left of your safety moving. Mine on my M&P 45c does not move when it is disengaged. It drops down out of the way and contacts nothing when the trigger is pulled. Something got bent when you modified the safety.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
 
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Just out of curiosity, with an EMPTY pistol & mag, what happens if you allow the trigger to recover a little more forward than you're doing in the video? Another click?

In the very last part of the video I let the trigger fully recover.
 
I watch the video of you problem. Did you remove the safety when you cut the other side off and filed it down? When you are squeezing the trigger I see what is left of your safety moving. Mine on my M&P 45c does not move when it is disengaged. It drops down out of the way and contacts nothing when the trigger is pulled. Something got bent when you modified the safety.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2

I think the sears are different on the 9/40 and 45. I bought the safety and filed it down before ever putting it in the gun that was maybe 350 rounds ago with zero problems since except for today.

In process of taking it apart now going to measure gap on the trigger bar
 
Padre has a good point. I just tried my 40c with TS and in the disengaged position, the safety does not move at all no matter what I do with the trigger. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the trigger bar is rubbing on the safety which sort of surrounds the sear block, it might prevent the trigger bar from sliding over and resetting.
 
My worry is excessive movement could further weaken and lead to failure. I'm going to ask S&W to send me a new one. Just want to let people know this can happen even with the new sear. Always check your carry guns for function every now and then.


I always do a function check before I holster my firearm to carry for the day. Just a habit I have.
 
Trigger bar loop needs adjusting. Looks like opened up. Or the safety is out of whack.

If you look in the beginning of the video, you can see the trigger bottom out before the striker is released.
 
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Selling your gun because it had a problem to me is the same as selling your car when you have a flat tire....Let S&W fix the real problem and then shoot the heck out of it.

Randy
 
I agree with those that say the trigger bar loop needs to be adjusted, but I'm not sure it's just bottoming out.

Can you take the slide off and video it from the top while pressing the trigger please? I'd like to see if the trigger bar loop is fully under the sear or if it's slipping off the side.


On the subject of losing faith in your gun, I understand where you're coming from. However, I would also add one thing. I won't carry a gun until I've put at least 500 rounds through it without a single malfunction. If it can't do that, I won't trust it for self-defense. Along with that, if I have a failure, and I fix it, and then the gun will shoot 500 rounds without a failure, I'll trust it again.
 
Update my buddy came over as he has several M&Ps and does a lot of custom gun work. We measured the trigger loop it was gapped at .008. We removed the safety and it was still doing the same thing. He brought over an Apex poly trigger and we installed it. We had to open the trigger loop up to .023 to get the sear to drop every time. He has installed several apex triggers and said at most he has to open them up to maybe .015-.017. There looks to be wear on trigger loop and sear contact point. We are guessing enough metal had worn away for the trigger bar to no longer drop the sear, which is the reason the trigger bar had to be opened up so much. Calling S&W Monday
 
At 500 or even 1,000 rounds there should be almost no wear on either the trigger bar or sear. Something is definitely wrong with that trigger bar or sear.
 
A dead trigger represents a total and complete failure of the gun. It's a carry gun it needs to function 100% of the time. A few FTFs every now and then is one thing as you can clear those but a dead trigger leaves you dead in the water.

I'm going to call them to see if they will send me a new trigger bar free of charge as I hate dealing with sending a gun in.

Hope this helps.....it's important to take the time to learn your weapon system. Too many people dismiss educating themselves on something that could ultimately be used to save their life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMLv_JaoSkU
 
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It has nothing to do with learning my firearm the gun was bought brand new bone stock. Ran great for 400 rounds then just today it started having a dead trigger. I honestly think that the trigger bar hoop/candy cane is a weak link. Any movement in it and your trigger is dead.
 
10 will get you twenty it's down to the safety job and a garage gunsmith error.

This kind of failure tends to be paired with that... the odds of it not being are sky high.

Yes. Seeing that safety lever move when he pulled the trigger was bothersome.
 
10 will get you twenty it's down to the safety job and a garage gunsmith error.

This kind of failure tends to be paired with that... the odds of it not being are sky high.

There was no safety job.....again the internals are 100% stock! Again the gun functioned perfect for several hundred rounds after the safety was installed. I found the problem will post video once it's done uploading. The problem appears to be the actual sear. As the sear block was made to be removable it is not held tight in the frame because only one roll pin in the back holds it together. The front of the sear would tilt up and down causing wear on the internals and finally a dead trigger.
 
There was no safety job.....again the internals are 100% stock! Again the gun functioned perfect for several hundred rounds after the safety was installed. I found the problem will post video once it's done uploading. The problem appears to be the actual sear. As the sear block was made to be removable it is not held tight in the frame because only one roll pin in the back holds it together. The front of the sear would tilt up and down causing wear on the internals and finally a dead trigger.

From reading your posts it's unclear - was this a thumb safety equipped gun from the factory, or did you convert it?
 
The gun came with no safety I installed it a week after I bought the gun last year. My sear will tilt with or without the safety as I'm sure most will as well. The safety lever allowed you to tilt the sear with thumb pressure. Unless you have a good deal of over travel you will get a dead trigger then either by lifting the slide or pressing down on the safety you can release the striker.

As to why the sear was made to be removable as a separate piece I don't know. The front of the sear sits in the molded slots of the frame which allows movement in the sear


http://youtu.be/IRi-qA1ZmIE
 
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