i have not, but my friend has and he says they cycle fine.
M&P picture thread.
- Thread starter bikerboy
- Start date
i have not, but my friend has and he says they cycle fine.
bevans555
Member
greatlakesshooter
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My own stipple job
Wow! Do you do stippling on the side? I'd be happy to send you my backstrap!
Bkreutz
US Veteran
Anyone tell me how this guy got a slide like this?
Silicone-impregnated gun cleaning cloth, a high-quality camera, and maybe a little help from Photoshop (or maybe not).
I sent the photo to ATEI and got the following response:
"The finish in the photo looks to be the Black Nitride and it was probably shined with a light coating of gun oil just before the photo was taken to make it really stand out."
Hmm interesting, thanks for the info. I remember the thread on here about that specific gun. It was a thread about letter fill, the guy used some gold inlay kit, but then the thread went off the rails when people saw the pictures of it. You should be able to find it if you search.
vaeevictiss
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Here's mine. Spent Friday at my buddy's gun shop putting in the Apex trigger and doing a little homebrew tweaking.
The stippling was done by the guy I got it from but I just did the backstrap last night since he only did the large one. Ended up having to heat up and smooth out the side of it once I realized how bad it tore up my side once it was in my IWB haha.
I blacked out the back sights after realizing I had a hard time focusing on the front and back, and made the front hot pink with the wife's nail polish (ya ya its pink, it stands out better than any other color lol).
Now this is what I meant by the tweaking. My gunsmith and I did some trial and error with the dreaded trigger bar loop that seems to scare everyone. We found something that seems to really pull the Apex kit together.
The idea with the trigger bar loop is that with the apex kit, you may have to bend it up a bit too hit the aftermarket sear. If you move it too much you can either break it or throw the timing of to where the sear will release the striker, but not the striker safety, and the pin will never hit the primer.
What the result is, is the normal length of pull, however the pull is lighter. What we did, as you can see, it's file a sharper angle in the loop and bent the loop up higher. What this did was allow us to engage the sear as soon as your finger is on the trigger and drops the sear faster, but since it is sharper of an angle, at the expense of a slightly heavier pull. Due to the shape and position of the bar, this alleviates any timing issues.
Lastly, I took fine stones to all the contact areas and ended with some polishing compound on a polishing wheel of a dremel to get the surfaces looking like mirrors.
The result is nothing short of one of the nicest triggers I've felt on a poly pistol.
I suppose I could have made this part it's own thread, but figured since I was here I'd post it all.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
The stippling was done by the guy I got it from but I just did the backstrap last night since he only did the large one. Ended up having to heat up and smooth out the side of it once I realized how bad it tore up my side once it was in my IWB haha.
I blacked out the back sights after realizing I had a hard time focusing on the front and back, and made the front hot pink with the wife's nail polish (ya ya its pink, it stands out better than any other color lol).
Now this is what I meant by the tweaking. My gunsmith and I did some trial and error with the dreaded trigger bar loop that seems to scare everyone. We found something that seems to really pull the Apex kit together.
The idea with the trigger bar loop is that with the apex kit, you may have to bend it up a bit too hit the aftermarket sear. If you move it too much you can either break it or throw the timing of to where the sear will release the striker, but not the striker safety, and the pin will never hit the primer.
What the result is, is the normal length of pull, however the pull is lighter. What we did, as you can see, it's file a sharper angle in the loop and bent the loop up higher. What this did was allow us to engage the sear as soon as your finger is on the trigger and drops the sear faster, but since it is sharper of an angle, at the expense of a slightly heavier pull. Due to the shape and position of the bar, this alleviates any timing issues.
Lastly, I took fine stones to all the contact areas and ended with some polishing compound on a polishing wheel of a dremel to get the surfaces looking like mirrors.
The result is nothing short of one of the nicest triggers I've felt on a poly pistol.
I suppose I could have made this part it's own thread, but figured since I was here I'd post it all.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
