M&P shield 2nd round ahead?

crittrgittr

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
43
Reaction score
10
I have the Shield in 9mm and love the gun. I am just wondering if anyone else has noticed that after chambering a round from the clip that the next/top round in the clip is slightly forward? I don't think it's a it deal, as the next round always seems to feed and fire properly, but I just find it strange for the following round to be about 1/8" forward. I have a Bodyguard 380 and a M&P 40 and neither of those are like that. Thoughts?
 
Register to hide this ad
I consider it no big deal. I haven't experienced any malfunctions due to this in almost 3 years.
I don't recall anyone here posting about any problems about it.
 
Mine does it, too. No issue as far as I can tell. My P938 has similar issues. I've concluded that it's just the nature of subcompact geometry.
 
I'm extremely new to this forum and to handguns mostly. I have experienced some things after I picked up my new shield. First I noticed when I filled the 8 round magazine with Federal self defense ammo it wouldn't feed right. Once I racked the slide it didn't go all of the way forward when I let go. It was about 1/4 inch from going all the way forward. Although it seemed to go all the way when I filled the 7 round flush mag in the gun. Not sure what's going on there. I think that the federal might not sit well with the Shield???
 
bwhitsonjr

Strangely enough, my Shield 9 works best with Federal HS 124 HP or 147 HP.

The slide not going into battery was a big problem for me at first. I changed lube for the slide rails to a very light coat of Lubriplate 0, and it improved greatly.

My just be a matter of time for the mags to break in.

On the slide, be sure the recoil spring assembly is positioned correctly. Rotated even a quarter turn, it gave me issues.
 
Its always a good idea to test potential defense ammo to make sure it will work with your pistol. At least a box or two.

Some pistols need a little break in as well. Shoot a couple hundred rounds of fmj target ammo through it.

The 8 round mag may put more pressure on the slide than the 7 round mag, and it may slow down the slide when chambering the first round.


I have always found federal HST to feed reliably in my pistols. So try a break in, and if that does not help, then switch ammo.
 
bwhitsonjr

Strangely enough, my Shield 9 works best with Federal HS 124 HP or 147 HP.

The slide not going into battery was a big problem for me at first. I changed lube for the slide rails to a very light coat of Lubriplate 0, and it improved greatly.

My just be a matter of time for the mags to break in.

On the slide, be sure the recoil spring assembly is positioned correctly. Rotated even a quarter turn, it gave me issues.

Thanks a lot for your feedback. I'm noticing the more I played with it last night if I fully pulled back on the slide and let go it was able to feed the round in and to the forward most position. I'm sure after a fire the force would be enough to feed properly. This is all being said with a gun that's brand new and never fired/cleaned/or oiled. Not sure what's a good cleaner/degreaser and oil for use on this gun. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again hoc9sw
 
Thanks a lot for your feedback. I'm noticing the more I played with it last night if I fully pulled back on the slide and let go it was able to feed the round in and to the forward most position. I'm sure after a fire the force would be enough to feed properly. This is all being said with a gun that's brand new and never fired/cleaned/or oiled. Not sure what's a good cleaner/degreaser and oil for use on this gun. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again hoc9sw

Put "gun oil" in the search function, you will get pages of posts. I'm not going to say anything, this is one discussion that seems to generate arguments. :rolleyes:

Here's a link to a thread I made about cleaning a M&P that you may find interesting. I don't mention chemical brands but you can figure it out from the pictures. http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/400655-m-p-cleaning-101-a.html
 
Last edited:
Rastoff
How would you know?

By ejecting the magazine and looking at it.
I have noticed it too, but it does not cause any problems.

I have two shields with about 600 rounds through them. No problems!
 
I noticed because I would insert the "magazine" into the gun then eject it to put another round in it. I figured no big deal as long as it feeds and fires, was just wondering if others having same issue and it looks to be common. it must be either a tension from mag issue or just need a few more rounds through it. Thanks a lot for all the replies.
 
Thanks a lot for your feedback. I'm noticing the more I played with it last night if I fully pulled back on the slide and let go it was able to feed the round in and to the forward most position.

Frankly I never play with a loaded gun. I think you are searching for a fix to a problem that doesn't exist.
 
When you eject the mag, if the top round were far enough forward to make a difference, the mag wouldn't come out easily. So, because it comes right out (implied because no one has said differently), this is a non-issue.
 
A good CLP is a good place to start with your cleaning kit... It Cleans, Lubricates, and Preserves...

I use Slip 2000 Gun Lube and EWL which are both CLPs... Gun lube is about $25 for a 16oz bottle, which should last a long time. EWL is more expensive and probably not needed on a semi pistol.


CLP tends to not clean as well as a dedicated cleaner, but I find Slip 2K works well enough for general cleaning duty. And its a great lube.


I also use a light viscosity grease on the slide rails.


There are many philosophies on proper gun cleaning... But in general most people tend to over clean, thinking they need to get things as clean as possible, spending an hour or more doing it. Wiping off all the parts and areas you can get to in the frame, then wiping them down with a little cleaner, maybe use a nylon brush or old toothbrush to help clean some areas... cleaning the barrel... then lubing properly, is good enough most of the time. 15 minutes or so...

The above linked cleaning thread is a good place to start.
 
Last edited:
I carry with one in the chamber. I've noticed this as well when clearing my weapon before returning it to the safe at night. Only ammo I've ever had issues with is TulAmmo BrassMax when the barrel warms up (although I think that problem is more likely a failure to eject issue - spent cartridge getting stuck in the barrel).
 
I carry with one in the chamber. I've noticed this as well when clearing my weapon before returning it to the safe at night. Only ammo I've ever had issues with is TulAmmo BrassMax when the barrel warms up (although I think that problem is more likely a failure to eject issue - spent cartridge getting stuck in the barrel).
A casing getting stuck in the chamber is a failure-to-extract. Regardless of the ammo, this should never happen. So, if you've had this, figure it out because it could get you killed one day.

A failure-to-eject means the casing didn't leave the gun. It somehow didn't clear the ejection port and caused a malfunction. This is commonly called a stovepipe malfunction. The malfunction can be caused by the ammo. One brand or another might not provide enough, or too much, movement of the slide. It can also be caused by the shooter/ammo combination. The recoil impulse will be different from different manufactures. This can cause what many term as a "limp wrist" reaction. A shooter can use one type of ammo and never have this issue and yet get these all the time with another type.

The failure-to-extract cannot be caused by the ammo. If the casing fails to come out of the chamber, this is due to the extractor or chamber.

Steel or aluminum casings don't expand and contract like brass. Especially with steel, the lack of elasticity can cause them to stick in the chamber when they expand because they stay expanded rather than contracting back to close to original size.

The second cause of a failure-to-extract is the extractor not doing its job. If the hook doesn't grab the case rim, then the case won't come out. This is usually caused by either a broken extractor or an improperly chambered round.

Neither of these causes are ammo brand related.

Either cause is cause for concern. One fix would be to never use aluminum or steel cased ammo. Some guns just don't like it. However, if brass cases are not being extracted, that needs to be fixed right away or the gun not carried.
 
Yes, that happens on mine consistently. It has never been a problem, though.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top