labloverva
Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2018
- Messages
- 77
- Reaction score
- 17
Does S&W do this?
If not, who does.
Thanks!
If not, who does.
Thanks!
M&P9 trigger job
- Thread starter labloverva
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
The closest thing I've seen to a factory trigger job is S&W's M&P Pistol Action Package, $120. You can read about it here:
Performance Center(R) Precision Gunsmithing | Smith & Wesson
From reports I've read on the Forum, the Pistol Action Package does not improve the trigger function as much as the Apex kits do. But if you want to keep your M&P in "factory stock" condition, it's your only choice.
Performance Center(R) Precision Gunsmithing | Smith & Wesson
From reports I've read on the Forum, the Pistol Action Package does not improve the trigger function as much as the Apex kits do. But if you want to keep your M&P in "factory stock" condition, it's your only choice.
Any competent, experienced gunsmith should be able to disassemble your trigger/firing components and polish them to make your trigger pull smoother and up to 1# lighter. It should take about a half hour at whatever his going rate is. Around here, that would be about $50 out of pocket.
This will give you a good trigger that most shooters will like. No parts replaced.
The S&W Performance Center will do it for you also probably. You’ll have to call Customer Service to check and then pay for shipping your gun both ways, which will add $60 or more to the cost and get you nothing different.
Others will say just shoot it and let the parts wear in. Eventually this will get you most of the way to an expert polish job. However, it will be slow and almost indiscernible progress for over a thousand dry fires. If you actually shoot it at $0.20/round, then this method costs $200 over time. Not really, since you would be shooting anyway, but that’s how I choose to look at it.
I choose immediate, polished gratification for $50.
Actually, I do it myself for free.
This will give you a good trigger that most shooters will like. No parts replaced.
The S&W Performance Center will do it for you also probably. You’ll have to call Customer Service to check and then pay for shipping your gun both ways, which will add $60 or more to the cost and get you nothing different.
Others will say just shoot it and let the parts wear in. Eventually this will get you most of the way to an expert polish job. However, it will be slow and almost indiscernible progress for over a thousand dry fires. If you actually shoot it at $0.20/round, then this method costs $200 over time. Not really, since you would be shooting anyway, but that’s how I choose to look at it.
I choose immediate, polished gratification for $50.
Actually, I do it myself for free.
When we transitioned to the M&P 1.0, the triggers improved quite a bit by the end of the week. So had our appreciation of the trigger and our ability to use it. Can't recall the round count.
You don't specify 1.0 or 2.0, but the 1.0 was designed to closely imitate a really, really good double action revolver trigger once you break it in. If that's not what you think you want and it's just a range toy, some part changing is in order. Yes, like just about any mechanical system, a break in period exists.
You don't specify 1.0 or 2.0, but the 1.0 was designed to closely imitate a really, really good double action revolver trigger once you break it in. If that's not what you think you want and it's just a range toy, some part changing is in order. Yes, like just about any mechanical system, a break in period exists.
Last edited:
OR....
In my case I started with my 2013 FS MP9 1.0.
I did a DIY job on mine. Bought a new sear housing block with the Performance Center sear in it. Swapped out the old sear. Dropped in the "H" stamped trigger bar and updated slide stop. Did the "cleanup" according to:
http://www.burwellguns.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm
Naturally, skipped the parts about filing on the sear.
Grit gone, nice and smooth. Still had a "stacking" feel as the trigger bar hit the striker block, then sear wall, then release, but OK.
Not bad at all. Don't have a gauge so no idea on pull weight.
Later dropped on a ported 5" CORE slide kit that had the fully rounded striker block (like the APEX USB).
A few more loop adjustments (trial and error), and it's a nice, no stack, clean break, tactile reset.
Still don't care for the hinged trigger. However, I do like the idea that it's still all S&W parts.
If I had to do it all over, I'd just get a APEX kit.
In my case I started with my 2013 FS MP9 1.0.
I did a DIY job on mine. Bought a new sear housing block with the Performance Center sear in it. Swapped out the old sear. Dropped in the "H" stamped trigger bar and updated slide stop. Did the "cleanup" according to:
http://www.burwellguns.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm
Naturally, skipped the parts about filing on the sear.
Grit gone, nice and smooth. Still had a "stacking" feel as the trigger bar hit the striker block, then sear wall, then release, but OK.
Not bad at all. Don't have a gauge so no idea on pull weight.
Later dropped on a ported 5" CORE slide kit that had the fully rounded striker block (like the APEX USB).
A few more loop adjustments (trial and error), and it's a nice, no stack, clean break, tactile reset.
Still don't care for the hinged trigger. However, I do like the idea that it's still all S&W parts.
If I had to do it all over, I'd just get a APEX kit.
ScaryWoody
Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2012
- Messages
- 605
- Reaction score
- 400
I did the Burwell trigger polish on my Shield. Made a big difference. Most of the parts are stamped meaning they have machine marks and burrs. As these are mass produced no one is matching the parts for the best performance. It if smooth everything out the trigger will be smooth. Change to an Apex sear (hardened steel) and you have a nice crisp pull. The Apex sear dropped the trigger pull by 1.5 lbs. I felt it was too light for carry so I added a heavier trigger spring.
I don’t recall ever hearing this comparison to a good DA revolver trigger, but it makes perfect sense and explains a lot to me about what S&W may have been thinking when they designed the M&P trigger. It also explains why the original 1.0 triggers were fairly heavy, spec’d at 6# but often up around 7.5# and gritty and long. As they wore in they got smoother and even a little lighter.
Thanks WR!
One part I know will get buy s&w service is a apex striker block . Thar change will smoothing trigger take up and reduce pull weight slightly . I sent a M&P 9mm some years back with issues with accuracy and it had some polishing and the striker block in it . Never caught it . Ended up going full apex but it was a pro series CORE pistol and it took a guns smith fit barrel to become a good shooter .
STORMINORMAN
Member
If it is a M&P 9 1.0 and not a Performance Center model the cat's meow! (IMHO) is the AGENCY ARMS/APEX drop-in flat trigger kit which was under $140 @ Optics Planet about a month ago...
That kit has it all, but you might still take a look at the trigger bar (?) itself as some of them can still be pretty rough from the factory if the S&W version of the "$0.25 trigger job" hasn't been done, yet... Truly makes a big, BIG improvement, but in my personal experience the Performance Center C.O.R.E. has the best trigger of them all!
Cheers!
That kit has it all, but you might still take a look at the trigger bar (?) itself as some of them can still be pretty rough from the factory if the S&W version of the "$0.25 trigger job" hasn't been done, yet... Truly makes a big, BIG improvement, but in my personal experience the Performance Center C.O.R.E. has the best trigger of them all!
Cheers!
CBStuard
Member
On my 9c 1.0 I did the burwell polishing and then got an Apex Duty/Carry kit. They supply it w/ a slightly heavier trigger spring so the initial takeup pull is increased as well as the final pull weight. But they also supply one of their sears. This reduces the final pull weight. Mine is just over 6# but nice and smooth.
