M&P9 Trigger

I would learn to shoot it with the factory trigger. Many shooters using "custom triggers" or Gun-smithing work on the trigger of a carry handgun can certainly cause you problems down the road if ever used in a self-defense situation. I have a S&W Shield for my EDC and the trigger is fine, goes bang everytime I press the trigger.
 
As a couple of folks have alluded to, any modification may have ramifications if you have to shoot someone. If you never plan on carrying it or using it in any self defense situation, I'd follow those who said, put a few hundred rounds through it (or Snap Caps) and see if things "improve".

Especially if you live in a Fascist state such as California. If I were to modify my Concealed Carry I would not leave a paper trail and would have very specific amnesia about that. You all know never to put reloads in the weapon while carrying of course. Same reason.

Want to speed up the break-in of the trigger? Put toothpaste on the sear area. It will polish the metal as you dry fire just like it polishes your teeth.
 
I am a very active competitive shooter, and I run custom triggers in all of my game guns. But my carry gun is a M&P 40c with a stock trigger. I find it reliable and manageable, and I see no reason to change it out since it smooths itself the more I shoot it.

Hopefully I'll never need to fire it in self defense, but if I do, I can't see why shooting .3 second splits instead of .2 second splits will be that necessary. I would rather know that my factory proven, as-designed trigger is more likely to give me potentially life-saving reliability.
 
Agree with Cub13

I totally agree with Cub 13. If you are unfortunate enough to live in Massachusetts, which ironically is the home of S&W, you should definitely get a trigger job on your M&P.
 
As an employee at a large gun store. I work almost exclusively behind the handgun counter. I handle many handguns everyday. I just bought the M&P 9c, for the feel of the grip, but not the trigger. The Shield trigger is better than the compact model. Even my inexpensive DA hammer fired pistol felt better than the 9c. I will either put in an Apex or have the trigger worked on by a local (well known) gunsmith. It is gritty, and heavy. To those that argue the legal ramifications of doing work on your gun. I would rather have a good trigger and be confident in hitting what I am aiming at, rather than pulling the gun off of the aiming point, and possibly harming other innocent bystanders.

Agreed !
Apex is definitely needed for the M&P line, as the triggers are mushy junk, bad break and reset.
Talon Grips would be a nice addition too.
The Shield comes with a much better trigger & a better low profile safety, if you want a safety.
Their Novak style sights are nice too.
 
Slightly different point of view here: I had a S&W 9c. I didn't like the trigger. It was long, mushy and gritty. I was pulling my shots low and left all the time with it. So I sold it and ended up with something that has a very nice trigger out of the box. Didn't lose any money on the deal. Now I blow the bullseye out of the center of the target every time.
 
Plus one on that...

I purchased one of the first M&P40 pistols that made its way into my state. Mine had the proverbial "gritty triggerpull". Even after a thousand rounds through it, the trigger was still gritty. I did not send it back to Smith & Wesson, but rather chased down the source of that gritty feel. Turns out, the stock striker block had relatively sharp radius shoulders and the machining was not as smooth as it should have been (i.e. there were tiny ridges in the finish). A warranty fix? Yep, could have been, but I chose instead to remove the striker block, chuck it in a drill, and polish a better and smoother radius in the shoulder. Reinstalled the striker block and, voila, smooth trigger. If your pistol has a trigger pull to your liking, I wouldn't mess with it. I've installed a number of Apex trigger kits in other M&P pistols, including my own M&P9 Shield, and they work as advertised. They are not necessary, especially if you like the trigger as it is now. Enjoy our M&P pistol and always remember, 'A Warm Barrel is A Happy Barrel!' So get out there and warm the barrel with some bullets downrange. :)
Well said and if you have the skills to disassemble the striker or hammer action, some patience, tools, 400 through 1500 grit wet or dry paper, and jewelers files then by all means do it yourself. If you don't take it to a gunsmith.

I do all my own trigger work and find it often like he said above quite a simple fix. But in all fairness to the trigger kit suppliers they often offer better resets and reduce creep which is often common on striker fired guns. The striker safety lift is often the cause of gritty or excessive creep too. But if you have the means and the rudimentary skills these things can be easy fixes. TIP: Don't use the jeweler's files to smooth the surface but wrap the paper around them and use them as a sanding block for polishing.
 
9C hits the target

I've put about 300 rounds thru my 9C, and was hitting the target where i wanted right off the bat. I have a SW revolver also and both guns track pretty good for me.
for personal carry and home defense I'm satisfied with stock trigger.
 
9c trigger replacement

As an NRA Certified Advanced Pistol Instructor and Training Counselor, my preferred firearm is the M&P 9c or 40c. I also have a M&P Shield 9mm. All three of them have had Apex DCAEK (Duty Carry Action Enhancement Kit) replacements. I did this for several reasons.
The trigger pull felt "gritty", not smooth. Also, it seemed that the compacts had a "false reset" prior to the actual reset, which wasn't easily felt or heard. There was a slight over travel of the trigger which resulted in a visual and actual jerk seen at the muzzle. All of these problems were resolved with the new Apex parts. .

+++1,

the original tigger had a long pull, that interferred when trying to not anticipate the shot. it was gritty, long, spongy. the apex kit got rid of all that. pull now feels positive, in control, smooth and it is hard to anticipate the break. closer to my 1911 trigger (i think having near same habit with multiple guns is desirable). also, installed a dmps/dpms (whichever) multi-spring recoil unit and my shooting improve noticably (mp9c). the recoil system package was marked CZ75, but sold as workable for the 9c. comes with two outer springs. the heavier one was best for me. 9c operates just fine with the new system (muzzle flip is way less). at 25ft, using the front dot over center of the target. the left/right drift is my fault.

cheers, ya'll
 
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