Hiya Gents,
I alluded to some of this in my other thread re: replacing the trigger play spring.
Here's the rest of the story...
My letter carrier deliver this M1006 to me the other day. I was told it was wildly inaccurate and had a broken play spring. I was asked to go through it in detail, replace the broken spring and test fire to evaluate accuracy.
As I go about digging the drawbar out of the frame, alarms bells start going off... Uh Oh! someone has been mucking about in here ahead of me
And it doesn't look pretty.
In the end I wound up replacing the hammer, sear, drawbar, trigger.
I thought I'd share what I found in there and why I replaced these particular components. In the following photos I have fixtured the replacement together with the bad part on the right hand side.
Hammer came out first so lets take a closer look.
Bad hammer on the right here. The three hammer notches as oriented in the pic are, the fullcock notch at the top, pickup notch in the middle and throw notch at the bottom.
Fullcock notch on the right has been deepened and lengthened. the effect of which is to shorten hammer throw. All the edges that should be sharp & angular have been rolled over and polished. The relief cut (flat above the fullcock notch) is rolled over in both axes such that it's now a shallow convex dome shape.
Viewed from another angle.
The bottom of the full cock notch no longer has any angles but has been cut into a shallow concave radius. I also see where the throw notch has been polished and the edges rolled over there as well.
On to the sear...
Bad sear on the right. Sear angles have been blunted and rolled over, sear legs are unequal in length now. Overall the sear has been shortened somewhat. But it's shiney
Another view.
Drawbar.
Again with the sanding & polishing at the trigger interface. messing with this area is of absolutely no benefit. The sharp bottom of that shallow angle cut has been rounded and scalloped out on the sides such that what was once a shallow angle cut is now a curved ditch which freely allows the trigger legs to skate around instead of pivot at the apex of the shallow angle cut as they were meant too.
When I put 2 & 2 together after seeing half of the play spring torn off, in my minds eye I see a rapidly spinning felt bob catching the lower leg of the play spring and Rip/Fling
The drawbar ought to look like this. Nice straight shallow angle cut with a sharp apex wherein the trigger hooks pivot.
Trigger...
Oh Good Grief!
Bad one on the right again.
Hooks significantly shortened, blunted/rounded over & polished.
So instead of pivoting nicely at the apex of the drawbar cut we greatly increased the bearing surface between trigger & drawbar making sure the trigger hooks free to scrub about.
Viewed from the side.
Hammer & trigger flats sanded & polished.
Serves no purpose at all unless the intent was to remove the flash chrome exposing the underlying carbon steel thereby promoting rust.
Those are the highlights. Aside from these parts, there were a number of other things that could have actually benefited from some work and would have resulted in quantifiable improvement to the trigger feel, but were left untouched
You know, this stuff kinda saddens me a little. There's noone making any new carbon steel bits for these guns and the supply of replacements is finite and dwindling. A few NOS parts turn up from time to time but mostly were relegated to the used bin. When someone presumably unknowingly goes in there and ruins a bunch of stuff, well, you know And some of the things done here were just utterly pointless of no benefit whatsoever
I like to think I am pretty handy with file and stone but there's no way I would ever mess with sear angles and hammer notches freehand.
I guess you can call this a cautionary tale. I'm not one to ever begrudge someone working on their own stuff but in this case I'll merely say if you don't own a stoning fixture with the proper adapters...
And at least a pint of stones & files on the ready line...
Plus, of course the knowledge & skills to use these things... Just don't, you'll only make it worse.
Anyway, the gun is all back together with the new bits, and some fresh bead blasting, headspace gauged good, extractor tension set & 7#, crown cleaned up, front sight moved to the centerline (was way off to the left), gobs & gobs & gobs of sticky green marine grease cleaned out of everywhere. I'm heading over to the Concordia Parish SO range in the morning for a test drive.
Cheers
Bill
I alluded to some of this in my other thread re: replacing the trigger play spring.
Here's the rest of the story...
My letter carrier deliver this M1006 to me the other day. I was told it was wildly inaccurate and had a broken play spring. I was asked to go through it in detail, replace the broken spring and test fire to evaluate accuracy.
As I go about digging the drawbar out of the frame, alarms bells start going off... Uh Oh! someone has been mucking about in here ahead of me
And it doesn't look pretty.In the end I wound up replacing the hammer, sear, drawbar, trigger.
I thought I'd share what I found in there and why I replaced these particular components. In the following photos I have fixtured the replacement together with the bad part on the right hand side.
Hammer came out first so lets take a closer look.
Bad hammer on the right here. The three hammer notches as oriented in the pic are, the fullcock notch at the top, pickup notch in the middle and throw notch at the bottom.
Fullcock notch on the right has been deepened and lengthened. the effect of which is to shorten hammer throw. All the edges that should be sharp & angular have been rolled over and polished. The relief cut (flat above the fullcock notch) is rolled over in both axes such that it's now a shallow convex dome shape.
Viewed from another angle.
The bottom of the full cock notch no longer has any angles but has been cut into a shallow concave radius. I also see where the throw notch has been polished and the edges rolled over there as well.
On to the sear...
Bad sear on the right. Sear angles have been blunted and rolled over, sear legs are unequal in length now. Overall the sear has been shortened somewhat. But it's shiney
Another view.
Drawbar.
Again with the sanding & polishing at the trigger interface. messing with this area is of absolutely no benefit. The sharp bottom of that shallow angle cut has been rounded and scalloped out on the sides such that what was once a shallow angle cut is now a curved ditch which freely allows the trigger legs to skate around instead of pivot at the apex of the shallow angle cut as they were meant too.
When I put 2 & 2 together after seeing half of the play spring torn off, in my minds eye I see a rapidly spinning felt bob catching the lower leg of the play spring and Rip/Fling
The drawbar ought to look like this. Nice straight shallow angle cut with a sharp apex wherein the trigger hooks pivot.
Trigger...
Oh Good Grief!
Bad one on the right again.Hooks significantly shortened, blunted/rounded over & polished.
So instead of pivoting nicely at the apex of the drawbar cut we greatly increased the bearing surface between trigger & drawbar making sure the trigger hooks free to scrub about.
Viewed from the side.
Hammer & trigger flats sanded & polished.
Serves no purpose at all unless the intent was to remove the flash chrome exposing the underlying carbon steel thereby promoting rust.
Those are the highlights. Aside from these parts, there were a number of other things that could have actually benefited from some work and would have resulted in quantifiable improvement to the trigger feel, but were left untouched
You know, this stuff kinda saddens me a little. There's noone making any new carbon steel bits for these guns and the supply of replacements is finite and dwindling. A few NOS parts turn up from time to time but mostly were relegated to the used bin. When someone presumably unknowingly goes in there and ruins a bunch of stuff, well, you know
And some of the things done here were just utterly pointless of no benefit whatsoever I like to think I am pretty handy with file and stone but there's no way I would ever mess with sear angles and hammer notches freehand.
I guess you can call this a cautionary tale. I'm not one to ever begrudge someone working on their own stuff but in this case I'll merely say if you don't own a stoning fixture with the proper adapters...
And at least a pint of stones & files on the ready line...
Plus, of course the knowledge & skills to use these things... Just don't, you'll only make it worse.
Anyway, the gun is all back together with the new bits, and some fresh bead blasting, headspace gauged good, extractor tension set & 7#, crown cleaned up, front sight moved to the centerline (was way off to the left), gobs & gobs & gobs of sticky green marine grease cleaned out of everywhere. I'm heading over to the Concordia Parish SO range in the morning for a test drive.
Cheers
Bill
I've rejected many dozens of 3rd Gens for cosmetic issues and obvious problems.
