M2.0 w/APEX DCAEK
- Thread starter My9
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Have fun!!! Dont know how much will apply to a 2.0. Keep us apprised!!!
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
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Rastoff
US Veteran
Don't pay attention to the Burwell link. It's for guns that don't have the Apex parts in them.
Look at this pic:
The red arrow is pointing to the place you'll need to smooth out. Once you take the slide off the gun and look at this surface, you'll see exactly where the polishing needs to be done.
With proper trigger technique you'll never notice the "gritty" feel, but it's your gun so, polish away.
Look at this pic:
The red arrow is pointing to the place you'll need to smooth out. Once you take the slide off the gun and look at this surface, you'll see exactly where the polishing needs to be done.
With proper trigger technique you'll never notice the "gritty" feel, but it's your gun so, polish away.
ontargetagain
Member
See if the trigger is gritty without the slide on, see if it stays the same magazine in and out.
Most likely putting a radius on that point Rastoff is showing will vastly improve the beginning of the trigger travel as this part rides up to the firing pin safety plunger.
Other areas of trigger bar can be colored up with marker then look for bright spots signaling contact and polish and or properly lubricate those for less friction.
1-step at a time for improvements
Karl
Most likely putting a radius on that point Rastoff is showing will vastly improve the beginning of the trigger travel as this part rides up to the firing pin safety plunger.
Other areas of trigger bar can be colored up with marker then look for bright spots signaling contact and polish and or properly lubricate those for less friction.
1-step at a time for improvements
Karl
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Disabled1
US Veteran
First of all, S&W did a very good job on the 2.0 trigger, and 2nd, the more rounds you fire the better the trigger gets, IMO.
After having put over 500 rounds through my 2.0 .40, I think the trigger is only getting better. YMMV
After having put over 500 rounds through my 2.0 .40, I think the trigger is only getting better. YMMV
Rastoff
US Veteran
No! Do not radius that part!!! It needs to be flat to work. If you round it off the gun may not fire.
It is a critical part of the timing between the trigger movement and striker block. Get that timing wrong and the striker block will not move out of the way and the gun won't fire.
Yes they were. I though all of the grittiness should go away, just as you.
ontargetagain
Member
My comment was intended to radius the sharp point to the right of your arrow since it is a stamped part and can have a sharp edge. Thank you for clarifying it for the OP
My apologies to the OP if I mislead you on my intent.
Rastoff is certainly correct if the wrong area is modified the timing of striker block movement will cause issues on releasing the striker mechanism.
Karl
It's my friends pistol. We are in the Coral Springs area. Thanks for the offer, but I think he can live with the gritty uptake for now. I knew of the areas to polish in the Gen 1 M&P but not the M2.0. It's sounding more like it's burrs in the striker plunger bore. He did polish the trigger bar but I don't think he wants to drift out the rear sight again, it is secured with Loctite.
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bsmiley
Member
bsmiley
Member
I'm still confused when I asked you on post #7 if the striker block and spring were replaced, you answered yes they were, but now you are saying that your friend doesn't want to remove the rear sight !! there is no way of replacing the striker block without removing the rear sight, that's why it is still gritty, most of the grittiness comes from the striker block/channel, the whole kit needs to be installed to get the best results.
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WT_ are talking about? Show me where I wrote that the USB from the APEX kit was NOT installed??
He doesn't want to remove it again, in order to polish the plunger bore. It's loctited in.
How about minding your own business if you have nothing positive to contribute??
