M48 Light Hammer Strike

[Waveski]

This comes a bit late in the discussion , but here is something else for you to keep in mind for future reference ---

I have a K frame .38 that I tuned for range shooting. Reduced springs were part of the process. I was occasionally getting ftf in da , but not in sa , so I concluded that I was right on the edge of sufficient striking force. Rather than reinstalling the stock hammer spring I employed an old trick - I extracted a spent primer from a casing , cleaned the guts out of it , and placed it over the end of the strain screw thereby effectively lengthening the screw slightly.

The result was consistent ignition and a trigger pull that was still noticeably less it was with the stock spring.

2 points to be made for clarification:

- I know that the OP was working with a rimfire revolver , but light strikes are light strikes.
- Obviously , such a modification would be inappropriate for any firearm intended for self defense. As stated earlier , my subject revolver is strictly a range gun , one that now has very smooth da trigger at about 7.5#. Single action is really an attention getter , inside of 2#.

 

[lscocoa]

This is my 48 no dash. I have a lot of similar problems with newer ammunition, where as older ( 10 years plus Winchester) fires every time. Brushing chambers every couple rounds helps and pressing cartridges in fully when needed , basically every time but still getting ftf’s but firing on 2nd hit . Quality control since the last shortage ?? Ammunition tried Armscor, Winchester, Hornaday, can’t find cci. I also question my strain screw . To test do you use a small or large primer? How’s this spring look?

 

[Waveski]

It's really hard to judge the degree of curve in those two springs , but if I put a straight edge in place and compare the two it looks like mine has a bit more - but that doesn't mean much because of all the variables.

If you want to try the primer cup trick , I extracted the one in the picture from a spent .38 sp round , so it would be small pistol. It fits nicely over the end of the strain screw , no chance of falling out of place once it is under load. There is a bit of hardware (anvil?) in the primer cup that has to be removed.

It's a Cheap Trick ... "Surrender" and give it a go. . (Cheap Joke)