Mag catch binding to frame

[Tarheel97]

I'm working on putting a new to me but used 6946 back together with all new springs from S&W. Frame is done except I've run into a problem with the mag catch. It's binding on the frame. From the looks of the wear it always has. Is there anything that can be done to smooth it out. It's stiff w/ the new spring and I can make it work but I'd hate to try to get a clean release under stress.

Thanks,
'heel

 

[roughedgekid]

You can try stoning it a little but dont take too much off.

 

[Tarheel97]

You can try stoning it a little but dont take too much off.

I'm a newbie DIYer. Can you point me to a reliable resource as far as tools, techniques, etc?

 

[chief38]

DON'T do anything to THE FRAME! What ever fitting you do, do it on the part. You can always buy a new part, but once the frame has been compromised, you're screwed. The ONLY exception is if there is a burr on the frame, then just do the minimum to remove it.

Without seeing exactly where the wear marks are, you more than likely just have to either de-burr or polish the magazine release button with a very fine Arkansas stone followed up with a rubber polishing wheel in a Dremel.

Go slowly, do a little at a time (you can not put metal back once removed) and try fitting it often between polishing's.

Chief38

 

[Tarheel97]

It's been awhile but I finally got to this this weekend. Just for grins I tried this out at an IDPA practice and just as I expected the stress of the stage and the binding made for very difficult mag drops. So...

I polished the release button where it binds with the frame and it works better. What I think is going on though is that the new, very tight spring is putting so much pressure on the plunger and off center pressure on the nut that they in turn are pushing the catch out of line and causing the binding on the frame. Any way to get around this? I can't go back to the old spring because it was rusted and so bound to the frame that it was destroyed getting it out.

 

[Jhp147]

I am having a hard time understanding your theory, not saying you aren't right, just can't picture it at the moment. I have seen mag release buttons over tightened, making them hard to press. The magazine catch plunger should be tightened flush with or slightly below the frame, per the manual, but I have better luck at flush to slightly above. Double check your parts for burrs-including the spring ends, even casting lines might cause rubbing. I prefer to polish out burrs with a small piece of fine grit emery paper and going down to metal polish on cloth for the smoothest finish.

 

[Tarheel97]

OK, thanks JHP. I'll double check. This one is frustrating. I bought it used from a reputable online dealer. I think at some point in it's life tho' it had been immersed in water for a time. All the springs were rusty. This one mag catch spring is the only thing still giving me trouble. There's something that makes the spring bind in the hole and there's something making the whole catch bind. I'll give it all another good look.

 

[Fastbolt]

If one mag catch assembly won't fit, move freely or function normally in a particular frame, the easiest armorer "fix" is to try another mag catch.

FWIW, if a particular mag catch nut feels rough when being depressed, it's suggested (in the armorer manual) to use a plastic mallet to "set" the parts. This process (whacking the nut of an assembly installed in the frame with a plastic mallet) would seem likely to knock down an occasional burred spot, I suppose.

Reminds me of when we were told in Sig armorer class that some newer P220 barrels might be a bit tight in the newer slides (meaning in new guns with less than 150 rds fired). If so, we could use a brass mallet to "set" the barrels in the slides, hitting them at the wear line on the bottom of the fed ramp. Think of it as accelerating normal wear between tight fitting components.

I'm not adverse to carefully removing an occasional burred spot on a part to restore normal functioning, if I have the time, but sometimes it's just easier to try another part in the gun. (And it's not uncommon to find that the mag catch that didn't fit & work normally in one frame may work just fine in another frame, BTW.)

Again, FWIW, I've had to replace at least a couple of mag catch assemblies in new production TSW's because of "sticky" operation or because the assembly couldn't be adjusted (nut & plunger) to function as desired in that frame. New parts restored normal operation & functioning.

Rusted mag catch springs can cause issues, obviously. I've found and replaced a number of them (one in a gun which had been submerged in salt water and then not reported for a year ).

 

[Jhp147]

Mag catch help

When you find a catch assembly that works, you may also want to look at a Wolff reduced power spring. Not much button there...spring may be too light for carry use but okay for games. I used one with an extended mag button for IDPA with a 4566TSW.