Magnumizing a 24-6?

SLT223

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The late production 24's appear to have a full length .44Mag cylinder. I assume the chambers are only cut to .44SPL.

Could you safely modify to .44Mag by installing the 29-10 cylinder or reaming the 24-6's cylinder to .44 Mag length?

EDA:
Purpose would be to have a 44 Mage with long tapered barrel. I just like the balance better :)
 
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I'm no expert, but I can't imagine why not. Though I wouldn't modify the original cylinder if it were mine - I'd get one from a 29, and set aside the original so you can restore it to factory condition any time you want.
 
My understanding is Magnum N frames are heat-treated differently than non-Magnums, the model 544 .44-40 given as the usual example. If this is true, why not do the reverse of what you suggest and put a tapered model 24 barrel on your favorite model 29? Problem solved :).
 
I would tend to think they are treated the same these days. I'll call and ask tomorrow.
 
Somehow, I doubt that anybody at Smith & Wesson is going to say to you, "Sure, go ahead and make your .44 Special into a .44 Magnum. Rechamber your original cylinder or slap any Magnum cylinder you can find in there. You'll be fine."

If you handload, it is not hard to safely get a cast 250 grain bullet up to 1,000 fps in the .44 Special. Back before we knew better, many of us loaded that weight bullet up to 1,200 fps over Elmer Keith's recipe of 17.5 grains of 2400. It kicked pretty hard in a .44 Special because the light weight barrels did little to dampen recoil, and I don't do it any more and don't recommend others do it, but I never bent anything doing it myself.

Still, I see no reason other than curiosity or personal entertainment to try to do that.
 
As someone who does heat treating I find it very difficult to believe that S&W could save any money or time giving some frames a inferior heat treatment. They have to be normalized after forging at the same temperature. To harden requires the same temp and quench. Tempering temperatures could be varied but, only by a narrow amount. Why give some an inferior treatment when it doesn't save anything.
 
As someone who does heat treating I find it very difficult to believe that S&W could save any money or time giving some frames a inferior heat treatment. They have to be normalized after forging at the same temperature. To harden requires the same temp and quench. Tempering temperatures could be varied but, only by a narrow amount. Why give some an inferior treatment when it doesn't save anything.

That's what I figured. I hope to confirm this today.

Edited to Add:
Confirmed this morning with S&W. They all receive the exact same heat treatment process.
 
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While I understand trying to use what you have....seems easier to just go buy a Heritage Series M29. I've got two, and you're right, they handle like a 4 inch heavy bbl.

I believe the cylinders are the same length as the mag cylinders, so why not just ream the cylinder chambers to magnum depth.
 
While I understand trying to use what you have....seems easier to just go buy a Heritage Series M29. I've got two, and you're right, they handle like a 4 inch heavy bbl.

I believe the cylinders are the same length as the mag cylinders, so why not just ream the cylinder chambers to magnum depth.

I don't have a 24-6. I'm thinking about getting one. Another forum member mentioned 44RM will fully chamber in his 21-4 Thunder Ranch. I'm hoping the 24-6 has the same cylinder and it's really just regular a 44 Mag marketed as a 44 Special. If not, then it'll just get a 29-10 cylinder.
 
I would consider getting a cylinder from a 629 and making a pinto (not the exploding Ford kind though). :)
 
S&W is NOT going to tell you that it's safe to change caliber (go bigger/higher pressure) on any firearm-with the exception that the M&P small frame is interchangeable for 9mm/.40/.357 Sig. But, only if you change the slide assembly.

The barrel change is possible, but depending upon configuration, may look wierd.
 
S&W is NOT going to tell you that it's safe to change caliber

Don't worry, I don't plan on asking them :) A 629/29 Mountain Gun is a 624/24 with the forcing cone cute back and a full length .44 Magnum cylinder installed.

I found out this evening the 24-6 I'm looking at, which is NIB, chambers full length .44 Mag cartridges, cylinder closes and rotates w/o issue. Looks like I won't need work on anything but the price :)

It would seem it's really nothing more than a 6" Mountain Gun relabeled "24-6" to add product to the catalog.....
 
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Don't worry, I don't plan on asking them :) A 629/29 Mountain Gun is a 624/24 with the forcing cone cute back and a full length .44 Magnum cylinder installed.

I found out this evening the 24-6 I'm looking at, which is NIB, chambers full length .44 Mag cartridges, cylinder closes and rotates w/o issue. Looks like I won't need work on anything but the price :)

It would seem it's really nothing more than a 6" Mountain Gun relabeled "24-6" to add product to the catalog.....

I too prefer the tapered M24 barrel. The 24-4 is the most desirable 44 Spl. for me, but I don't know if it chambers 44 Mag:

However, if I was in the market for a later model 44 mag I would clearly want the features of at least the 29-3E or -4 with the endurance package for a shooter. And better yet would be a post 1990 -4 for maximum performance and desirability because that's when the longer cyl stop notches and new bolt block were added. There's no -5 but my choice would include the -6 (introduced 1993) but only a -6 that's pre 1995 because that's when the sq butt was deleted and MIM parts commenced.

So for a Mod 24 with the same features as the late 29-4, it would be a 24-4 (the highest dash # for the 44 Spl. in standard production), most of which are one of the '12 Revolvers' Ltd edition, but there are a few 'over-run' guns that are rare and highly collectible. The 24-5 (Heritage Series) & -6 (w/6 1/2" barrel 2008 Classic Series) get into the internal lock guns if that matters to anyone.
 
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