Maintaining a Shield with FrogLube?

[jdvs327]

Hi all,

So I got FrogLube for my Shield a month or so ago and I applied it per directions in my gun manual and the FrogLube website. When I first went shooting after applying it, I suffered about 3 FTEs (I believe due to me not applying heat to the lube before shooting) before having the smoothest shooting I've ever had (after about 50 rounds I shot the next 200 without fail). However, I'm wondering how often to clean my weapon after shooting. Do I do it after EVERY shooting iteration or every certain number of rounds? Do I apply solvent and reapply the lube? How exactly do I work it? Thanks!

Edit: Edit: I ask this because although I've been trained by the Army to clean after every shooting session, I realize FrogLube is different than other CLPs, and I don't know if I should just 'run a rag and go' or actually remove and reapply.

 

[TheMystro]

Froglube failed two combat pistols of mine on two seperate occasions (P229 and HK USP). If you are having lite primer strikes, then the Froglube migrated into your fireing pin. HK has seen it often from Froglube. Very common with FL. Just avoid it. Clean your gun out with G96 CLP and stay away from Froglube.

Do you know how hard it is to cripple a Sig P229 and HK?? These are guns designed to run in any kind of conditions. The tech at HK had many come through gummed up from FL migrating into areas that it shouldn't be. Its issue is well documented. I used it and tested it on 11 handguns for a year. Its a liability by its inconsistent viscosity. There are much better and well proven lubes to use on your gun.


Froglube fail X2.....,,, - SIG Talk

Well thats it..FROGLUBE ='S FAIL - SIG Talk

Froglube liquid (not paste) viscosity at a freezing temp. Here lies the problem. It acts like a grease and oil depending on the temperature. It migrates into areas that it should not when it is warm and then gets thick like grease when cold.

 

[Bkreutz]

I use Froglube exclusively, I've got around 35,000 rounds through my current Pro Core 9. I clean it every week or so (1200 rounds per week). Don't know how to respond to the previous experience Honestly I think an M&P would run on spit for lube.

 

[jdvs327]

I use Froglube exclusively, I've got around 35,000 rounds through my current Pro Core 9. I clean it every week or so (1200 rounds per week). Don't know how to respond to the previous experience Honestly I think an M&P would run on spit for lube.

Do you use solvent and CLP when you clean? Or do you just run a rag through it and run it?

 

[Justin69]

First of all, u made an excellent choice in using frog lube. The stuff is simply amazing!! I do not have a shield, but use it on my f/s 9 & 9c. As far as any problems you are having with the gun I doubt this has anything to do with the fl (of course I do not know how you applied it). As far as cleaning goes, I simply wipe down my gun with a clean, old t-shirt after shooting, that's what's so good about fl, the dirt & gunk simply does not stick to your weapon (IF properly applied). I do still run a nylon bore brush with some fl on it down the bore after every trip to the range (& wipe it out). When I notice that it is harder & harder to wipe down my weapon, that's when I apply more fl. One application will last a long time (ymmv)

 

[jdvs327]

First of all, u made an excellent choice in using frog lube. The stuff is simply amazing!! I do not have a shield, but use it on my f/s 9 & 9c. As far as any problems you are having with the gun I doubt this has anything to do with the fl (of course I do not know how you applied it). As far as cleaning goes, I simply wipe down my gun with a clean, old t-shirt after shooting, that's what's so good about fl, the dirt & gunk simply does not stick to your weapon (IF properly applied). I do still run a nylon bore brush with some fl on it down the bore after every trip to the range (& wipe it out). When I notice that it is harder & harder to wipe down my weapon, that's when I apply more fl. One application will last a long time (ymmv)

Okay cool, because all I've ever known is the good old Army "run the rags and bore cleaners through the weapon and get CLP on the range" from basic training. I applied the FrogLube as stated on the website instructions on the Shield points as stated in the manual WITHOUT heating the lube.

 

[Justin69]

Lotsa people make a huge deal about having to heat the gun during the initial application. All I did was field strip my gun and put it on an old cookie sheet & set it outside on my sidewalk in the mid-day sun for a few minutes. You can also use a hair dryer. It really just needs to be warm to the touch.

 

[wingnuut]

I agree with mystro ,the stuff turns to goo if you don't use the gun weekly, your screwed if it gets in the fire pin channel

 

[Justin69]

I agree with mystro ,the stuff turns to goo if you don't use the gun weekly, your screwed if it gets in the fire pin channel

Your screwed if anything gets in there. That area should always be clean & dry

 

[Llando88]

I've had pretty decent luck with Froglube exclusively on my FS 9mm.

I initially applied it per the FL web site, basically got the stripped firearm hot with a hair dryer, and the applied to mating surfaces. After leaving it, I wiped it down.

I clean pretty much after every range session, run a damp bore snake through several times, then use patches to wipe out the slide etc.

Pistol seems to work pretty well.

 

[Bkreutz]

Do you use solvent and CLP when you clean? Or do you just run a rag through it and run it?

I use Frog Lube solvent on the barrel, then run a brass brush through the bore. I then put a little of the gel stuff on the same brass brush and pull it through. Finally pull some patches through until they're dry. On the rest of the pistol I brush on the FL paste and then wipe it off with paper towels or q tips. Then I use the same brush and put some paste FL on the 4 slide points. That's the extent of my cleaning. I did pull the striker out at about 25K rounds but it wasn't very dirty (I posted some pics of that a few months ago) so I wiped it off with a paper towel and put it back in.

 

[AR-Getsome]

So. You need to heat your gun up to get the frog lube to work? Doesn't make sense to me. So if I use frog lube on my edc, do I need to heat my gun in cold weather if I need to defend myself? Or is my body heat enough? I'm just asking. I use M-pro7 on everything I own. It is definitely a preference for what everyone uses. Do knock me for using what I like, I'm not knocking anyone using frog lube.

 

[Llando88]

So. You need to heat your gun up to get the frog lube to work? Doesn't make sense to me. So if I use frog lube on my edc, do I need to heat my gun in cold weather if I need to defend myself? Or is my body heat enough? I'm just asking. I use M-pro7 on everything I own. It is definitely a preference for what everyone uses. Do knock me for using what I like, I'm not knocking anyone using frog lube.

To me the 'heat up' was just initially.

Seems like most of it wiped off when I was done.

When I take the pistol out for a session, it's almost like it's dry, but the action is real slick, if that makes any sense.

 

[Justin69]

So. You need to heat your gun up to get the frog lube to work? Doesn't make sense to me. So if I use frog lube on my edc, do I need to heat my gun in cold weather if I need to defend myself? Or is my body heat enough? I'm just asking. I use M-pro7 on everything I own. It is definitely a preference for what everyone uses. Do knock me for using what I like, I'm not knocking anyone using frog lube.

m-pro7 is actually compared to fl on there site Specifications | FrogLube

 

[SpringGunTunes]

After field stripping the pistol and before I apply Frog Lube for the very first time, I use Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner from my auto parts store. It removes all the oil and is harmless to plastic. Then you can use the Frog Lube clear solvent to further strip the lubes from the weapon. Be sure to use compressed dry air to blow the cleaners and solvents out regularly and often.
One thing you guys are missing is you should wipe as much of the Frog Lube off your weapon as possible with the microfiber cloth. The reason for heating the metal is so the FL can get into the valleys below the asperities (peaks in the metal that weld together when they touch and cause wear).
I completely strip my pistols and use a new soft bristle toothbrush to completely brush in the paste FL onto every part of the weapon. Then I preheat my wife's oven to 170 degrees F (I use a thermometer to check it) and I let it heat up for about half an hour on a clean cooking sheet. 170 degrees will do absolutely nothing harmful to the polymer.
Then, I COMPLETELY remove all the FL. I mostly use the microfiber rag but also use another new soft bristle toothbrush and surgical lint free pointed cotton swabs to wipe off all the FL I possibly can.
Then, I repeat the same process again. Be sure to get all the Frog Lube off all the parts. Leave only what the micro fiber cloth leaves behind.
Then I assemble my weapon and test it many cycles and dry fire it. I also blow out the striker pin area and extractor relief with dry air during assembly.
Then with the weapon completely assembled, I put it back in the oven at 170 degrees F for another half hour or so. Then I field strip the weapon and wipe it down again with a NEW microfiber cloth and cotton swabs trying to get all the Frog Lube off that I can.
Do not lubricate the "five points" as described in the owner's manual. The Frog Lube is already there.
The problems I see with Frog Lube failures on every forum or YouTube video is due to too much Frog Lube being left on the weapon. The weapon should be almost completely dry.
After this "Curing in", after shooting my weapon, I use the clean toothbrush, apply a little Frog Lube paste and brush it clean. Then wipe everything off with the microfiber cloth. Done, easy and it works if you use as directed.
Rob

 

[Robotech]

Frog Lube IS a essentially a wax with a low melting point. As such, if you leave it in "gobs", it will solidify when cold, which can jam your action.

The key is to only leave the thinnest of coatings when you are finished cleaning and lubing your gun. The only place you can actually "see" it on my guns is the little extra I sometimes leave on the slide channels and the front of the barrel/chamber hood, and most of that gets wiped off after cycling the action a few times.

Using heat during the initial application works much like seasoning a cast iron pan, and just as when cooking with cast iron, you normally just have to wipe them down when cleaning.

Since cleaning the original shipping lube out of my M&Ps and Ruger Mark III last year, I haven't had to resort to any stronger solvents. Just a little Frog Lube on the bore brushes, patches, etc., cleans them very well, and with a final wipe-down and attention to the lubrication points, they're done.

The M&Ps usually don't require more than a wipe down, maybe a patch through the barrel, and the lube-points touched up. The Ruger requires a bit more attention because I'm running A LOT more relatively dirty ammunition through it, and the bolt/chamber area is a lot harder to clean.

 

[Nomadic Vagabond]

lol... you have to heat the gun up to apply initially, then every now and then? Um, no thanks... What's so hard about using tried and true Hoppes No. 9 after every shooting session? Sounds like a solution for laziness.

 

[Stratajema]

Froglube failed two combat pistols of mine on two seperate occasions...

Finally, a voice of reason about this overhyped product where many of the original posts on message boards are done by employees.

BTW, the top selling, useful gun oils are not CLPs.

 

[highaltitude]

I dumped Frog Lube over a year ago, when the hype was the highest about how great the product was. I found it gummed up my gun, didn't offer very good lubrication and was a pain to put on. There are much better lubricants/CLP's out there, IMO. Do you Shield a favor, remove all the Frog Lube. Be sure to clean out the firing pin channel as well, because that stuff will be gummed up in there too… Just my opinion…

 

[gnystrom]

Redundant post.
I am not an employee or paid user.
I have used it on my Polymer guns for well over a year. My routine, First application, and about every six months or so if the gun has been heavily used, is to apply paste and warm the gun with a heat gun and let it sit for an hour under a 100 watt light bulb ( if you are smart enough to have saved them).

After shooting, never use a solvent or oil. I just take a q-tip with FL liquid and run it down the barrel and let sit while I wipe off the inside of the slide, etc. with a lightly FL coated Q-tip. Too much FL is not a good thing. Run a patch or two down the bore and use that patch to wipe off all excess FL from the gun. Lastly, take a dedicated microfiber towel to wipe everything down, getting all the FL off the surfaces, and you are good to go.
If you are one that needs to see "wet" slide rails, I suspect a small amount of FL paste applied with a Q-tip flattened with a hammer may satisfy your itch.
BTW. I use it on ALL my revolvers and clean up takes half the time of conventional solvents.
Just my unpaid 2¢