trevorsworth
Member
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2020
- Messages
- 18
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- 82
I’d buy any Broomhandle in any condition for that. Don’t sweat it. With the spring refresh I think you will be very happy with your gun.
Mauser Broomhandle..value & age?
- Thread starter Masterbuck54
- Start date
@ Masterbuck54
Since you are thinking of shooting it. An add on to the good advice given by trevorsworth.
The area marked with the red circle in the next picture must be exactly like in the picture. Any kind of deformation from this is a very bad sign. And your pistol may be unsafe. Having the bolt imbeded in your face is never good.
Any kind of distortion on the cut for the bolt stop is also a no no. It should look like this:
The locking block is made from very hard steel and it's a numbered part that should match at least the number on the bolt. It should interlock with the bottom of the bolt like this:
Also. Make sure the lugs of the locking block are sharp and have not sheared. This one is in good condition, and as you can see it's number is the same as the bolt.
Another thing. The most important spring in a C96 is the main spring(the hammer spring). It's the combination of the spring and the mass of the hammer that prevent stressing the locking block. The bolt spring function is simply to send the bolt forward.
Have fun.
Since you are thinking of shooting it. An add on to the good advice given by trevorsworth.
The area marked with the red circle in the next picture must be exactly like in the picture. Any kind of deformation from this is a very bad sign. And your pistol may be unsafe. Having the bolt imbeded in your face is never good.
Any kind of distortion on the cut for the bolt stop is also a no no. It should look like this:
The locking block is made from very hard steel and it's a numbered part that should match at least the number on the bolt. It should interlock with the bottom of the bolt like this:
Also. Make sure the lugs of the locking block are sharp and have not sheared. This one is in good condition, and as you can see it's number is the same as the bolt.
Another thing. The most important spring in a C96 is the main spring(the hammer spring). It's the combination of the spring and the mass of the hammer that prevent stressing the locking block. The bolt spring function is simply to send the bolt forward.
Have fun.
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Walter Rego
Member
Something that you may or may not run into when changing springs is that the firing pin spring ~may~ need fitting. On mine, the ID of the spring was fine but the OD was off by just enough that it caused binding inside the bolt channel. I figured that everything needed to move freely and didn't want to find out what may happen if it didn't.
I used some 400 grit wet or dry followed up by 600, 800 and 1200 grit with oil and spun the spring in a cordless drill, trying it until it moved freely. I had a few pierced primers with the PPU ammo prior to replacing the spring and it solved the problem.
I used some 400 grit wet or dry followed up by 600, 800 and 1200 grit with oil and spun the spring in a cordless drill, trying it until it moved freely. I had a few pierced primers with the PPU ammo prior to replacing the spring and it solved the problem.
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On many of the 90's imports from China,,mismatched parts prevailed.
Check the TD latch and make sure it's engaging the cut in the frame as it's supposed to and that the V spring leg from the lock assembly that powers it is in fact giving it full force in engagement.
Quite a few that I've had to work on had the mismatched part. They were OK if fitted with some skill.
Many were crudely filed so they would just drop into position when the upper and lower were assembled, no sense of any fitting. Just file a bunch off of the semi round surface of the TD latch engagement so it dropped into position.
Some were so sloppy you could back off the upper from the lower unit enough while it was assembled that the pistol would not fire.
Some had hardly any spring tension on that TD latch to hold it down in position when the pistol was fired.
The cocked hammer holds it down when the pistol is in that mode.
But as soon as the hammer starts to fall, it's up to that small V spring to make sure the latch remains seated.
Check the TD latch and make sure it's engaging the cut in the frame as it's supposed to and that the V spring leg from the lock assembly that powers it is in fact giving it full force in engagement.
Quite a few that I've had to work on had the mismatched part. They were OK if fitted with some skill.
Many were crudely filed so they would just drop into position when the upper and lower were assembled, no sense of any fitting. Just file a bunch off of the semi round surface of the TD latch engagement so it dropped into position.
Some were so sloppy you could back off the upper from the lower unit enough while it was assembled that the pistol would not fire.
Some had hardly any spring tension on that TD latch to hold it down in position when the pistol was fired.
The cocked hammer holds it down when the pistol is in that mode.
But as soon as the hammer starts to fall, it's up to that small V spring to make sure the latch remains seated.
