Mdl. 19 Crane wear.

[Greyman50]

My 1977 M-19's crane is worn out. About 1/3 of rear side of groove that the forward side plate screw secures crane in frame has worn down over the years. Way to much end play in crane and cylinder. Mostly shot 38 Spl. over the years.
Whats best solution?

Guys at range(not gunsmiths) said get new crane which would not match. TIG welding build up, then file and stone to fit would seem best to me but not sure who could do it( trusting their welding?).
Thanks in advance.

 

[StrawHat]

I am having a hard time visualizing this. Can you post an image?

Kevin

 

[armorer951]

Your yoke is not likely "worn out", but needs adjustment. The button at the end of the yoke stem can be peened back to take out this forward/aft play between the button and the pilot at the end of the yoke screw. (pilot is the unthreaded portion at the end of the screw)

This is a factory hand fit interface, and properly mates the back of the yoke button to your yoke screw.

Correct fitting here is essential to maintain the proper front and rear gauges on the cylinder, and to retain the yoke and cylinder in the frame.

If there is wear on the yoke screw, a new screw may also help eliminate the end shake that has developed on the yoke. You might also try switching the two crowned sideplate screws.

There will likely be end shake on the cylinder as well. This can be corrected by stretching the yoke barrel, or by using yoke shims. Be sure to check the head space or "rear gauge" at the back of the cylinder. The correct rear gauge between the cylinder and the breechface is .060" - .068".
(counter-bored cylinders .012" - .018")

In the photos below, you can see the "arc" on the back of the yoke button from the screw pilot's contact with the button when the cylinder/yoke assembly is opened and closed. To repair, and close the gauge on the yoke button, the button is lightly peened back until it makes proper contact with the yoke screw pilot.

 

[Greyman50]

armorer951, Thank you. Heard of this process years ago and thought there might be a " better solution" today. I actually started to do this and thought, wait and ask on forum. Have several side plate screws, anvil and small hammer so will try it this weekend.
Had to shoot my Trooper MkIII the other day as my beloved 19 was out of commission. Hopefully my right eye can be fixed so can shoot well again…

 

[RWJ]

There will likely be end shake on the cylinder as well. This can be corrected by stretching the yoke barrel, or by using yoke shims. Be sure to check the head space or "rear gauge" at the back of the cylinder. The correct rear gauge between the cylinder and the breechface is .060" - .068".

If this is a 1977 gun (i.e., 19-4 or earlier) with a recessed cylinder, the headspace may be .012" - .018".

Just a thought.

 

[Greyman50]

Its a 19-3 headspace was .012"-015" IIRC, will check after fixing big problem.

 

[Pig Hunter]

Make sure the side plate screws didn't get switched so the fitted one is out of place.

 

[armorer951]

Added a note about the recommended gauge of the counter-bored (recessed) cylinders to the post above. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[Greyman50]

Thanks for all the replies. Fixed crane the other day, took about 2 hours as took peening slow. Used a machinist clamp, short piece of stick on wheel weight for support and section of thick leather to hold crane in clamp. Peen, reshape with small file and stone. Always roll files on round objects as well as stone. Prevents flat spots. Have to get my feeler gauges out of old machinist tool boxes. Have a magnetic parts holder I alway use when working on pistols or revolvers to prevent loss of parts. Have found a worn out plastic cutting board works well to prevent scratches or loss of finish.

 

[steelslaver]

Go slow. I have to fight myself at times to go slow. I used to have to spent more time and do more work because of hurrying than flat mistakes.