MGW frame wrench question

[-BTM-]

I have K & L inserts on the way, thought I’d see how they fit before buying the MGW wrench.

It looks like a wrench could be made for those, but I’m curious about the knob on the side of the MGW wrench - is that where the clamping force comes from? Why not just put the frame & insert in a vise and use a barrel wrench?

 

[Shotguncoach]

I have an MGW wrench and like it quite a bit.

I believe the knob is there to take up any slack that exists between the frame/inserts and the wrench body. My K frame inserts were slightly oversized and after fitting them to the wrench they do not need the knob. My N frame inserts are slightly undersized and the knob is needed to keep the inserts from twisting (very slightly) in the wrench body.

There is also a plate that bolts across the bottom to close the square. When that is in place, the inserts, frame, and wrench are all one solid unit.

There are people who do exactly as you described, and I know one gunsmith who locks his frame wrench into a vise, wraps the barrel in tape, and then uses a large crescent wrench around the barrel and forward locking lug.

I've found that I prefer to lock the barrel into a vise and use the handle on the frame wrench. I think it gives me better control and has less possibility of anything slipping and possibly marring the finish.

If you're thinking about working on "nice" things, I suggest buying a rusty, nasty, junk gun to practice on first....that way your first experience isn't with the nice one and if something goes wrong it's no big deal. Try it both ways and see what you prefer.

 

[-BTM-]

Great advice. I was trying to do that, ordered one described as a “Model 14 or 15” off Gunbroker and this is what showed up!

Besides, there is some guy out there buying up the reallly ugly ones, I think he’s around here somewhere.

 

[Shotguncoach]

LOL.....I recognize that one. It was in my watch list.

Edit - I just talked to that guy and he only has 17 projects in the hopper right now.

 

[dfariswheel]

Putting the frame inserts in a vise can work, but it doesn't work well if you have a round barrel.
Gripping a round barrel can be difficult to prevent slipping and stripping the blue.
For round barrels I used a small version of a rifle barrel vise using a small hydraulic jack to provide the clamping force.

For lugged and ribbed barrels I had aluminum or hard plastic shaped barrel inserts for a modified bench vise to fit the barrel.
In all cases I used a frame wrench and inserts. That just seems to give a better feel to avoid bending or cracking a frame.

 

[-BTM-]

I hear you about the round barrel. I have some lead sheets on the way and started to mold some steel epoxy to fit the barrel and lug/rib if it has them. I’d weep if I ruined the finish.

 

[steelslaver]

I use hardwood blocks in a vise to hold the barrel. Actually they are pieces of Oak flooring and I clamp the barrel in the shallow relief cuts in the back side. The rib and the barrel lug stick out between the 2 pieces. There really isn't a lot of torque involved. My inserts, which I machined from nylon, go in a homemade holder that uses 5/16 bolts to tighten onto the frame. One side of the holder has a 12" handle

 

[WR Moore]

I also prefer locking the barrel in wood blocks. 40+ years ago I bought an MGW frame wrench (first model) & inserts to work on an N frame that had the barrel torqued by Godzilla. I wasn't happy with the inserts.

I made my own inserts (and wrench) out of aluminum. The inserts are similar to steelslayers, but the insert for the left side of the frame actually goes into the area under the barrel. The insert bears on the flat of the barrel boss. It was a PITA to create, but it's done outstanding service.

I've got the material to do a K frame wrench, but I've pretty much decided that somebody's K insert with an epoxy addition to match up with that flat would be a whole lot easier.

Late entry: there was a video of the Custom Shop building a revolver. I recall that barrel installation took place with the yoke in place to help limit frame flex when torquing the barrel. The yoke would do nothing to limit frame flex during removal. The wrench I designed support the frame without the yoke in place so it could be used to either remove or install the barrel. The outer edge of the yoke recess acts as a stop for frame flex.

 

[dfariswheel]

Fortunately, revolver barrels usually aren't as torqued as rifle barrels.

Modern ribbed and underlug barrels are easy to hold without damage with good barrel vise inserts.

See the Kuhnhausen shop manuals on the Colt and S&W revolvers for photos of some great barrel vise inserts.
These days I'd make them from an engineering grade polymer like Delrin or just case some from a good grade of 1 hour epoxy.

One key is to treat them like precision tools by keeping them in plastic bags or containers and clean them before and after use, every time. That keeps shop grip out.