Miculek Spring Kit - Great Trigger Job!

[Ross226]

I installed the Miculek Spring kit into my Model 19-3 Snub. The result is a great trigger job for under $20. Very nice and balanced result, I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but believe it is about 8 lbs - feels much better than the factory. I ran 100 rounds through it yesterday at the range - no light strikes using Winchester and Sellier & Bellot primers. See the link as Jerry explains the installation.

Note: Jerry modifies the main spring screw to get a very light pull, I did not. You don't have to - he was going for a 7.5 lb pull - that is very light.

The conventional wisdom is - if your revolver is a defensive weapon keep the factory springs in.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g[/ame]

 

[bountyhunter]

"The conventional wisdom is - if your revolver is a defensive weapon keep the factory springs in."

I definitely agree with that.

 

[jtcarm]

USPSA & Steel Challenge shooters go as light as 6 lbs. They shoot Federal
primers and some guys double seat to ensure they bottom out in the pocket.


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[Hapworth]

USPSA & Steel Challenge shooters go as light as 6 lbs. They shoot Federal
primers and some guys double seat to ensure they bottom out in the pocket...

Quite true, but it's a whole lot more than spring work to get to that light a trigger with reliable ignition.

 

[jtcarm]

Quite true, but it's a whole lot more than spring work to get to that light a trigger with reliable ignition.

Very true. A lot send their guns to Apex.


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[Nemo288]

I have replaced springs in several S&W 44's but only the trigger return spring.
This lightens both trigger pulls but leaves the hammer fall alone.
I used to play with the main spring screw but learned the hard way that can be foolish.
I screw them all the way in now.
Tightly in magnum revolvers.
I don't compete where double action shooting is a thing but do practice some defensive shooting.

 

[OldChief]

Just a bit of education, the part is called the rebound slide and the spring the rebound slide spring. Having been to the S&W revolver armorer's course, I have the proper tool for removing and reinstalling the rebound slide but I like that ball pen idea for installation. Gonna, have to try it!
As for changing to an aftermarket spring, I don't do it. According to the Armorer's Manual, "A primary Smith & Wesson safety device consists of 3components: the hammer, rebound slide and the 17-coil rebound slide spring. This feature is designed to prevent firing from a falling hammer unless the trigger is held back." The manual goes on to say, "Do not alter the spring or install springs not authorized by Smith & Wesson." Take it for what it's worth but, installing a lighter aftermarket spring could cause a safety problem.

 

[zonker5]

I'm not a fan of the Miculek spring kit, he just "recurves" the main spring. Does not seem like a real precise way to do things to me.

I prefer to use Wolff reduced power main springs for my range-only guns, they are designed for a specific strength, not a cobbled up stock piece. Their full power spring will smooth out the pull without lightening the hammer fall.

I have also found that just putting in a 14# rebound spring makes the trigger pull much lighter.

 

[photoman]

...installing a lighter aftermarket spring could cause a safety problem.

I don't understand. How can a lighter rebound slide spring cause a safety problem?

 

[Nemo288]

I don't understand. How can a lighter rebound slide spring cause a safety problem?

By not pushing the hammer blocking slide up in time to prevent it contacting the firing pin in the case
(as quoted above from the armorers manual) of a push-off or other hammer fall with the trigger not being pulled all the way back?
Sorry I am not more eloquent and don't know all the proper S&W jargon.
Having said all that, I have put in the 13 and 14 lb springs and all the trigger and hammer functions seem normal.
I do carefully and lightly lube all those moving surfaces and have polished a couple (but not the sear surfaces).
I know (some of) my limitations.