Mod. 19-4 Questions..

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Hi all,

I've had my Mod. 19-4 for about 11 years. It's a 2.5" ins. bbl (P&R). Pretty basic. Shiny Blue finish, Magna grips, standard black sights; no inserts/outlines, etc. For reference, it cost me exactly $350 total around 2001 in Texas. It was a decent deal at the time and place for a great condition S&W .357 Magnum. It's always been a great shooter. I'm thankful that DA Revolvers like this were key to my formal training because I think it helped me transition better to semi-autos. Indeed, I use my M19 as one of the true gauges of my accuracy: If I can hit target at 15-25 yards with a good, fairly tight grouping: I'm on my game.

1. Serial is 80K70xx; this means 1980 mfg. date, yes/no?

2. What's this about no further support of K frames like these at S&W? I still see M19 parts and prices on their site; is this phantom? Where else do we go for servicing. About 8-9 years back, I contacted them regarding basic servicing and it was a bit more expensive than my salary allowed. As a result, I just never got to it. Now I may regret that.

3. What is the number stamped inside the yoke arm itself? It doesn't really correspond with the serial. It's "C4" over "77547". Was this a donor replacement part or is that just a part number?

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The reason behind asking #3 is that there is dinging on the front sight blade like it was dropped or hit against something sorta' hard before I got it. It wasn't me and I didn't notice this for weeks after buying until I gave it an extra-thorough cleaning. It's possible that it jammed the upper-corner of the barrel against the frame ever slightly, causing a tiny burr there. This has apparently not affected accuracy nor safety.

There's also signs that someone got into the lockwork by the sideplate, or tried to. They used a tapered screwdriver which is how I know. Again, not immediately obvious the day I bought it. I have had no problems with the revolver whatsoever so I've dismissed all this as cosmetic. But I am wondering if there is actually more to this and if the yoke is original?

Which takes us back to #2. After 11 years and a lot of spent brass, it's a little loose in the lock-up. Timing and gapping is fine but there's a slight amount of play if you rotate the cylinder. Not as bad as most used reviolvers I've handled and certainly better than the loosey-goosey revolvers they taught us on. But being it's a S&W and a highly coveted example at that, I'd like to have it serviced eventually. A parts shortage could hamper that if one develops.

Thanks in advance.
RF
 
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Welcome to the forum RetroFlow,

I think you are spending too much time examining imperfections that don't affect your 19's performance, but I'll try to answer your questions.

1. The SCSW agrees with 1980 manufacture.

2. S&W continues to show complete parts lists for older models even when they are out of some of the parts and plan to never make any more. It has been repeatedly posted here that model 19 barrels fall in the later category, but I haven't asked S&W myself. Other than a barrel replacement S&W undoubtedly could tune up your 19.

3. That is the assembly number used to reunite a frame, yoke and side plate after blueing. It will also be on the inside of the side plate and on the grip frame. To end your fear that the yoke was replaced compare its number to the grip frame.

You could reduce the cylinder's rotational play at lock up by installing an over size (thicker) hand. Usually they drop right in but it's possible you might have to file a few thousands off the left side of the hand slot in the frame. In the unlikely event the over size hand won't move freely without the filing, see 500 Magnum Nut's FAQ sticky in the S&W-smithing forum. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html You'll enjoy reading the thread even if you don't change hands. Over size hands are available from S&W, Brownell's and other parts suppliers for about $15.

It's hard to imagine how a dropped revolver landing on its front sight could move the barrel enough to raise a burr on the frame because the barrels are screwed in so tight. Was the burr you're seeing blued along with the rest of the frame? If so, it's left from when your 19 was built.
 
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