Model 10-5 extraction problems

[Vilkus]

A recently purchased 10-5 of mine has extraction problems. I checked the chambers for burrs and found nothing. After disassembly I discovered that spent cases slide out smoothly without the extractor star in place. It appears that the star is intruding into the chamber enough to cause the cases to bind.
Any ideas how I should go about correcting this?

Other than the extraction issue the gun shoots well and seams in excellent condition with little use for a 50 year old gun. (No doubt the extraction issue explains the little use.)
I have never run across this particular problem.

Thoughts?

 

[alwslate]

Are the two small pins in the cyl that fit in the holes in the extractor star still in place?

 

[Vilkus]

Are the two small pins in the cyl that fit in the holes in the extractor star still in place?

Yes they are and they appear straight. I can't see anything bent or out of place.

 

[Vilkus]

Hopefully better photos.

 

[just plain joe]

I had a similar problem recently with my Model 18, .22 revolver. It was unfired. I took one of my bore brushes and chucked it into my Dremel. At low speed I ran the brush into each chamber. It cured the problem. There may have been a small burr near the chamber mouth.

HTH.

JPJ

 

[Vilkus]

I had a similar problem recently with my Model 18, .22 revolver. It was unfired. I took one of my bore brushes and chucked it into my Dremel. At low speed I ran the brush into each chamber. It cured the problem. There may have been a small burr near the chamber mouth.

HTH.

JPJ

Did you use oil? I've read where JB paste was used on a patch over the brush.

I have lightly stoned the extractor arc to remove any burrs. No help.

Brownells has cylinder hones that are used with the extractor in place. I was considering going that route, but now I may try your idea. It sounds less aggressive.

 

[just plain joe]

Sorry, my bad. I did in fact use J & B Compound along with Kroil.

Good luck!

JPJ

 

[alwslate]

My best guess would be that the extractor star is not original to the gun and just needs to be exactly fitted by reaming or honing. Whatever is less invasive. I’d say you’re on the right track. A very slight over sizing of the extractor star will not cause problems with the low pressure .38 spl near case head.

 

[Old_Cop]

what ammo did you shoot. Fresh factory should drop right out. Reloads with lots of firing can sometimes hinder extraction.

 

[Narragansett]

what ammo did you shoot. Fresh factory should drop right out. Reloads with lots of firing can sometimes hinder extraction.

They can hinder loading too, if they have not been full length resized.

Are you using reloads?

 

[alwslate]

I assume you’ve had the cyl completely apart. Anything bent, like the center pin or extractor rod. Will the star fit both ways, 180 degrees apart? Does it make a difference if it will?

 

[Vilkus]

what ammo did you shoot. Fresh factory should drop right out. Reloads with lots of firing can sometimes hinder extraction.

I agree, they should drop out.
I always test a new to me gun with factory ammo. This time it was factory Federal 158g RNL. I did try some of my own reloads afterwards with the same results.

I believe that extractors of this era weren't drop in and needed pin alignment. I would think that any reaming or honing would have been done by the smith doing the pin alignment, but who knows??
The gun is pretty much as new, so I don't think it's a replacement part. I think they just missed a step at the factory.
I need to do more reading on cylinder honing before attempting it myself.

 

[Vilkus]

I assume you’ve had the cyl completely apart. Anything bent, like the center pin or extractor rod. Will the star fit both ways, 180 degrees apart? Does it make a difference if it will?

Yes, I had it all apart. Best I can tell, nothing is bent. The extractor has only one groove and can only be installed one way. (Good try though.)

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I would look down the front of the cylinder to see if part of the ratchet is protruding into the chamber. After removal of the ratchet from the cylinder, a little judicious work with a round stone on the offending high area of ratchet horn should take care of the problem. Coating the protruding areas of the ratchet with Dykem and slipping empty shells in the chamber would give you a more precise visual confirmation of where the rubbing is. If you don't have experience with this type of work it is always better to take to a gunsmith as this a critical area of function and safety!

 

[Vilkus]

I would look down the front of the cylinder to see if part of the ratchet is protruding into the chamber. After removal of the ratchet from the cylinder, a little judicious work with a round stone on the offending high area of ratchet horn should take care of the problem. Coating the protruding areas of the ratchet with Dykem and slipping empty shells in the chamber would give you a more precise visual confirmation of where the rubbing is. If you don't have experience with this type of work it is always better to take to a gunsmith as this a critical area of function and safety!

I have Dykem. I'll check that out tomorrow or Sat in the daylight.
Thank you all for your help. Lots of good ideas, things to look for.

 

[Vilkus]

Thank you all so much for your ideas.
I disassembled the cylinder this AM and cleaned the extractor with brake clean then coated it with dykem. There was the tiniest interference in a couple of places that I removed with light stoning. This however didn't quite fix everything. I tried Joe's idea with a brush, patch, and a flitz type light abrasive. After a light polish I put everything together and tested it with a mix of factory RNL and my SWCL reloads. I wouldn't say they dropped out, but darn close to it!
So it's all fixed thanks to the brain trust at the S&W forum.