MODEL 10-6 BACK FROM S&W

ladder13 said:
What's nice about the factory is that they go over the gun and replace what needs to be replaced, usually at no extra cost.
I sent a 29-2 back some 10 years ago, they recut the forcing cone, reset the barrel, replace the hand, and all fresh springs.....no charge other than the reblue.
Click to expand...

That's because you are on a first name basis with them.:)
 
Guys,

Just got my Model 10-6 back from its final step at Amerigun. There, Chris McVety and his Team of Artisans did their magic and fitted a Trijicon front sight.

Since the gun originally came with a pinned-in front sight, it was relatively simple for his experienced cadre of gunsmiths to fit the Tritium blade.

OUTSTANDING work!!! No blemishes or scratches, save for some adhesive gum from the masking tape they used to protect the superlative bluing done by S&W.

Please forgive the copious amount of pictures. Many of you have expressed interest in the job they do at Amerigun. I wanted to show the peerless quality of work they do. I am very pleased.

I also took the liberty of attaching pics with her Magnum stablemate, my Model 13-1 that Chris and his Team did for me a few months back.

Chris has done 6 revolvers and a Model 39-2 slide for me. Al lof his work has been stunning. I can't recommend his services enough. As an aside, his bluing guy has done two guns for me. Whomever (and wherever) he is, he is a God.

Thanks for the audience!



[/URL

[URL=http://s1150.photobucket.com/user/6604Marine/media/20150901_150024_zpsf8ig6elw.jpeg.html]



 
Last edited:
It is truly very hard to beat the Heavy Barrel Model 10 for combat use. The 15 is a great Combat Gun for the .38 caliber as is the 19 for the 357.
But the 10 with the heavy barrel just points and shoots phenomenally well. Very nice pair of heavy 10s!!! One is not under gunned as long as the proper .38 load is used. Beautiful revolvers!
 
Very nice money well spent. The model 10 is a close second to the model 13 as my favorite Smith & Wesson . You cannot beat the look and feel of these fine revolvers. Shoot it in good health ,very tastefully done . Now I have to find a model 10 to go with my 13-2 😀
 
All I can say is wow!!!

It is nice to know that S&W has somebody that actually likes their job and has pride in their work. You got a nice job on that one.

I have a revolver there now for a fix and this really makes me feel good about it. I normally do all my own gunsmithing but this was a brand new never fired gun and I felt they owed me the fix.

After seeing what they did for you I feel much better...

Thanks for sharing.

Congats!
 
What a great job! I have a 10-6 that is in great condition and it makes me want to do the same with mine. If possible can you tell how much it was for the front sight?

gtoppcop said:
All,

I recently received my 1976-vintage Model 10-6 back from the "Mothership". She had some chemical etching to her barrel, which destroyed the bluing. A cold blue was enough to make her "presentable", but it irked me.

In mid March, I sent her off to S&W for a basic Service Blue finish. While there, they gave her a clean bill of health and replaced her hand with a new one I provided them. They also chamfered the charge holes at the Performance Center.

When I got her back ($260 w/ shipping), I was truly amazed at the wonderful work they did to her. Granted, she didn't have any warts that needed attention, but the overall fit and finish of the job they did was first rate.

This particular Model 10 is one of my top shooters. Attached is a picture of her in her "before" state. She shoots to the sights. The refinish of this fine revolver is one of the last things that she will need.

In the next few days, I will receive from Mag-Na-Port a set of high-polish stainless (from a donor Model 66 no dash) .265" Service Trigger and Hammer. The trigger will be radiused and the hammer will be Semi-Bobbed by the Mag-Na-Port artisans.

After I install them (along with a highly polished rebound slide), she'll be sent off to Amerigun where Chris McVety and his Team will install a front Trijicon sight (like the one they installed on my Model 13-1). The Ahrends Retro Combat grips are from Gripseller on ebay and are of Bocote (Cordia).

When the Model 10-6 is "done", I'll be sure to post pics and a range report. I wanted to let some of the folks I've spoken to previously know its progress. BRAVO ZULU goes off to The Performance Center (Vito-now retired) and Roz Sousa who wrote the work order up. Thanks for a job truly well done!







Click to expand...
 
TommyBoy,

Chris McVety charged me $130 installed with shipping. He can be reached at: [email protected]

Great guys to deal with for almost anything, but for anything Trijicon, they're the go-to folks.
 
Last edited:
wow, that came out really nice , and the way the job SHOULD be done, thanks for sharing with us, my faith in the factory is still there;)
 
I would be interested to know if while there, they increased the trigger pounds as per Mass Compliancy. The did that to a friend of mine even thought he lives in New York State.
 
To all those who are constantly asking about S&W's ability to refinish a revolver as well as anyone else, or those who are concerned because they "heard" that S&W just cannot properly polish and refinish a revolver, this thread and those pictures should become a sticky.

Wow.

What a great job they did, and at a reasonable price also.

Congratulations!
 
If you call S&W service number from their homepage they will email you a shipping label and you can have FedEx pick it up at you home. I just did this last week for a repair issue and got a call from FedEx that it will be delivered tomorrow with the need of a signature. I have done this several times especially for Remington's that were recalled. Piece of cake easy.
 
Hello All!

This is my first post on the S&W forum! I recently acquired a Aussie LEO trade-in M13-4. While the mechanics appear fine, the finish is largely worn off such that I am thinking of getting the revolver re-blued as well as having the smiths take a harder look at the functional aspects of the gun. My question to the OP and all present: which type of bluing do you think I should opt for? There are several options listed on the S&W website: High bright polish? Standard polish and blue? Glass bead blue? The intended purpose of this M13 is self/home defense, so reliability/functionality is paramount. Does anyone have any other recommendations for possible upgrades/modifications? I suspect it would be prudent to keep the firearm as close to factory stock as possible, but I am certainly no expert.

Thank you in advance. Glad to be on this forum!
 
gtoppcop said:
All,

Thanks so much for the kind words. The blue was wonderfully executed. I did, however apply some of the green FLITZ liquid with my bare hands and took off some of rust that was left from the bluing process.

The look is still the same, but the feel is like glass. I customarily use the less-aggressive FLITZ liquid to remove surface contaminates and to polish the inside of the barrel (less friction = more velocity?)

The grips are the semi-rough textured oiled Ahrends. I like them because I break the sharp edges on the top of the speedloader cutout with a file and 1500 grit paper. I then use 3 in 1 oil to "finish" the small area. Easy.
Click to expand...

WOW! This has got to be one of the top coolest restoration "make it my gun" threads I have read. Congratulations on "A job well done." You and S&W and the others in this journey. It is sooooooooooooo comforting to hear S&W is still proud and careful.

Mostly , thank you for making a one of a kind Made in USA masterpiece. ENJOY! It is beautiful...
 
njmatt,

Any of them are nice. The matte blue is somewhat like the Highway Patrolman (kind of). What you should specify is 600 grit Brushed Blue. That will be a decent finish that will stand up. Methinks the Highway Patrolmans (Model 28) were done in this fashion.

Truth be told, it's entirely up to you.

As for the Trigger Pull issue asked above, I didn't notice any additional weight. I polish the rebound slide and its corresponding area inside the frame when they come back from being blued anyway.

Any weight added would be negated by the quality of the trigger pull. I think this one is about 9 lbs. Hard to tell, as it's very smooth all the way through the DA stroke. I don't use SA, so it's a moot point as to how much the SA pull is.

Thanks for the kind words. If I can help out, by all means...
 
Last edited:
njmatt83 said:
Hello All!

This is my first post on the S&W forum! I recently acquired a Aussie LEO trade-in M13-4. While the mechanics appear fine, the finish is largely worn off such that I am thinking of getting the revolver re-blued as well as having the smiths take a harder look at the functional aspects of the gun. My question to the OP and all present: which type of bluing do you think I should opt for? There are several options listed on the S&W website: High bright polish? Standard polish and blue? Glass bead blue? The intended purpose of this M13 is self/home defense, so reliability/functionality is paramount. Does anyone have any other recommendations for possible upgrades/modifications? I suspect it would be prudent to keep the firearm as close to factory stock as possible, but I am certainly no expert.

Thank you in advance. Glad to be on this forum!
Click to expand...

I prefer glass bead in a working gun, but that is just me.
 
gtoppcop said:
All,

Thanks so much for the kind words. The blue was wonderfully executed. I did, however apply some of the green FLITZ liquid with my bare hands and took off some of rust that was left from the bluing process.

The look is still the same, but the feel is like glass. I customarily use the less-aggressive FLITZ liquid to remove surface contaminates and to polish the inside of the barrel (less friction = more velocity?)

The grips are the semi-rough textured oiled Ahrends. I like them because I break the sharp edges on the top of the speedloader cutout with a file and 1500 grit paper. I then use 3 in 1 oil to "finish" the small area. Easy.
Click to expand...

Hey Gtoppcop, the last thing you want to do is use something like FLITZ on a blued gun. Not everyone realizes the bluing, whether it's hot caustic (like S&W uses today) or cold "rust" bluing, is all based on a corrosive process. It's all rust, and penetrates the surface of the metal. When you "take off" the rust, you are removing or "thinning" the bluing and reducing it's longevity. I used to have folks come into my shop all the time that decided to remove rust from a firearm by using a gel type rust remover. It worked okay, except the gun would be bare steel(white) where ever that stuff touched. Flitz is not acid based like that stuff, but is a polish and removes metal, which means it's removing bluing. Stop obusing that poor model 10 or we'll all get together and come and get it. It'll end up in a foster home.:)
 
ladder13 said:
What's nice about the factory is that they go over the gun and replace what needs to be replaced, usually at no extra cost.
I sent a 29-2 back some 10 years ago, they recut the forcing cone, reset the barrel, replace the hand, and all fresh springs.....no charge other than the reblue.
Click to expand...


Dang, I got a quote on my 24-3 of $90 per hour & long wait to recut/reset my 24-3.

I wonder if they'd do all that if I sent it for a re-blue.

I don't know if it's still the case, but USPS used to allow a non-dealer to ship directly to a manufacturer (and receive back) for repair.
 
Beautiful Mod 10! Thanks for sharing the journey! Reminds me of it's younger harder living Australian brother:

IMG_0055_zpsz4fx2sjz.jpg

james
 
Smith and Wesson has done a very good job with all of the revolvers and 3rd Gen autos I've sent them for service.

One thing I make sure of before sending them in is that they are SCRUPULOUSLY cleaned. I tend to think that guns are not too unlike cars. Meaning, a mechanic (or gunsmith) is more inclined to go the extra mile if he/she has a clean canvas from which to work.

I volunteer at my LGS in cleaning guns taken in for service, or ones that have been taken in on trade. I spend extra attention on S&W revolvers, 3rd Gens, 1911s and Beretta 92-series guns. Why? Because I know them. Many would shudder at the sights I see when folks bring in guns for service, wondering why they cease to function.

Many times it's a lack of cleanliness or lubrication. I help them out by giving them a quick clean and lube. When I come out to meet with them 10-15 minutes later, they're dumbfounded. I gently remind them that a firearm is a mechanical device and is subject to the laws governing mechanical contraptions: Dirt, grit and lack of lubrication will kill ANY mechanical device.

Whenever any of my firearms go out for service, they are so clean that you could eat off of them. It must be a Marine thing. The first thing I do when I get a firearm home, is to tear it down and clean it.

Another quick aside. About 3 weeks ago, I was given the high honor of tearing down and cleaning a 1934-vintage .38-44 Outdoorsman with a 6-1/2 barrel. The gun had never been apart in its 81 years. The years were kind to her, as she had all of her rust bluing and was still very tight. 3-1/2 hours' cleaning netted a beautiful example of S&W glory. I can't imagine the artisans who made her and the tools that they used to build her. Her insides were not molested (or all that dirty...) in any way. She was given a gentle cleaning and sent on her way.

Last week, her new owner and I discussed her and the subsequent range trip. He was indeed grateful for the preservation that I gave her. THAT makes all of my work worthwhile. I feel good when others like the work I've done for them on their firearms.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Say When!
Scope mount on 1997 S&W Performance Center Model 625-6
Replies
1
Views
402
jrc1
J
K
Oh those C and D S&W Model 10’s
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
Bald1
Bald1
C
Sending back to S&W for re-blueing?
Replies
3
Views
266
charlessummers
C
T
Just bought (what I was told is) a S&W Model 10-6
2
Replies
38
Views
4K
JP@AK
JP@AK
W
Lew Horton S&W 627-3 5" and S&W 627-PC 6 1/2"
Replies
2
Views
412
Michaelp57
M

Latest posts

Back
Top