Model 10 - Barrel replacement

[Spike12]

So somehow the barrel on my old Model 10 has a cute little bulge just aft of the sights. I got an idea of how it happened but that's another story.

What does it take to replace the barrel? I'm not looking for a tack driver, just a short range, good plinker.

Not being a S&W guru, I see a pin so I assume it has a 'pinned' barrel. Does that mean that pin is all that holds the barrel in? And if so, can I just drive out the pin, R&R the barrel and go shooting?

 

[Spike12]

So somehow the barrel on my old Model 10 has a cute little bulge just aft of the sights. I got an idea of how it happened but that's another story.

What does it take to replace the barrel? I'm not looking for a tack driver, just a short range, good plinker.

Not being a S&W guru, I see a pin so I assume it has a 'pinned' barrel. Does that mean that pin is all that holds the barrel in? And if so, can I just drive out the pin, R&R the barrel and go shooting?

 

[OKFC05]

No you can't.
Most people who try to change a barrel without the proper tools wind up twisting the frame.
A K frame action wrench alone costs $140.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.as...ER%20ACTION%20WRENCH

 

[robotoid]

I just bought a really nice 4" 65 that I wanted to have a 3" barrel put on. I'd end up paying almost as much to buy a barrel and have it put on as to just buy another gun.

 

[Spike12]

Grrrrr....

It's in pretty good shape too, damn.

Well, thanks anyway.

 

[Pisgah]

Cut an inch off, recrown the muzzle, and solder on a new front sight. It's a fairly easy and very satisfying project well within the abilities of the shade-tree home gunsmith.

 

[Bob McGee]

Spike12
I have a brand new, never been installed model 10 barrel, if you are interested I could send you a photo.

 

[cgt4570]

Spike,

In my experience, pinned barrels aren't usually too tight to loosen without damaging the frame. (I have heard of exceptions)
Anyway, you don't have anything to lose by trying. If it's too snug to unscrew without excessive force, then you can either take it to a gunsmith or put the pin back in and live with it.

The way I do it: I've got rubber inserts with magnets that stick to the vice jaws. The're round on the inside and fit a barrel pretty good. Since you're trying to remove a bad barrel, you won't neet to be as careful with the front sight and locking lug. With luck, you can unscrew the frame by hand without using extreme force.
The old method was to use a piece of hardwood (like a hammer handle) through the cylinder window for leverage. This CAN bend a frame and is not recommended.

As for fitting a replacement barrel, if it's used and from the same era, it might line up near perfectly and give an acceptable b-c gap. If it's a brand new one, then there's a good chance the forcing cone will need to be trimmed just a little to clear the cylinder. I've done this with a case trimmer if it only needs a hair taken off. Just make sure whatever you use leaves it square.

Hope this helps,
Chris

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by cgt4570:
Spike,The old method was to use a piece of hardwood (like a hammer handle) through the cylinder window for leverage. This CAN bend a frame and is not recommended.

Amen. I was thinking maybe two flat pieces of wood that fit on both sides of the frame window with a vise clamping them evenly MIGHT work.... you don't want to let the frame twist at all.

 

[john traveler]

With all this talk about the potential of bending a revolver frame while attemting to re-barrel, I had to comment.

It's true that careless use of the old stick-through-the cylinder window trick puts the frame at risk, but it is ABSOLUTELY true that trying to grasp and turn the frame using your bare hands is LOT riskier! I use cast lead blocks or hardwood blocks with a central groove for holding the barrel. Gouge out clearance for the front sight and extractor rod lug. I use frame-fitting cast epoxy resin blocks backed up with 1" oak boads for a frame wrench. Clamped in place on the frame, they work as well as those fabled $140 gunsmithing frame wrenches. The idea is to distribute the torquing forces so that they don't stress the frame extremities. That said, I've yet to encounter a S&W barrel that needed more than about 15 ft.-lbs to remove. They simply are not that tight. Remove the cross pin first, of course. A last advisory is that only Airweight barrels are rountinely set in place using Locktite adhesive. Removing those without first breaking the adhesive bond using a hairdryer IS risky, especially the J frame models.