Model 10 Re-Barrel

[DanielF]

I have an old Model 10 that a friend of mine gave me for nothing. It's a basket case and I figured it would make a good learning tool. My question is does it really require gunsmith skill to replace the barrel? It's had a squib fed to at some point because the barrel is buldged. It's a pinned barrel and I totally understand the concept but wanted advise before I spent money. Also its got the tapered pencil barrel on it. Would a heavey barrel work in it's place? I have another model 10 with the heavy barrel and much prefer the beefy look. Any help would be awesome. I can post pics if you guys need them. Thanks

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[jrm53]

A 4" heavy barrel will work fine you may have to adjust the gap if your lucky and it tightens up with the sight straight up but it seldoms works that way good luck! Jeff

 

[serger]

Have you shot it to see if the bulge degrades accuracy?
It might be fine.

 

[DanielF]

Have you shot it to see if the bulge degrades accuracy?
It might be fine.

I haven't the gun is missing pieces so it's not shootable right now. I'm a little concerned about shooting it though it's a pretty large bulge. If I can get it running it will never be nothing more than an ugly duckling shooter. It's finished in satin nickel and finding a replacement barrel in that finish is like hunting for hens teeth. Im just interested in learning how to get it shooting again. I may try and get the missing parts and put some really weak FMJs threw it just to see. I was concerned about it blowing out on me BUT with it being 38 it may not be a problem.

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[Hapworth]

I have an old Model 10 that a friend of mine gave me for nothing. It's a basket case and I figured it would make a good learning tool. My question is does it really require gunsmith skill to replace the barrel? It's had a squib fed to at some point because the barrel is buldged. It's a pinned barrel and I totally understand the concept but wanted advise before I spent money. Also its got the tapered pencil barrel on it. Would a heavey barrel work in it's place? I have another model 10 with the heavy barrel and much prefer the beefy look. Any help would be awesome. I can post pics if you guys need them. Thanks

Yes, it takes gunsmith skill...and tools. The frame needs to be properly braced using special jigs designed to allow the barrel to be removed without bending the frame.

And, as mentioned, you'll need to know how to set a proper barrel-cylinder gap, re-cutting both the barrel face and forcing one -- special tools also.

Barrel swapping isn't a casual, shade-tree job.

 

[DanielF]

Yes, it takes gunsmith skill...and tools. The frame needs to be properly braced using special jigs designed to allow the barrel to be removed without bending the frame.

And, as mentioned, you'll need to know how to set a proper barrel-cylinder gap, re-cutting both the barrel face and forcing one -- special tools also.

Barrel swapping isn't a casual, shade-tree job.

I was figuring that since each barrel is fitting by hand (at least they used to be) this may just become a collection of parts for the junk drawer. As I said the gun was free and its missing cylinder and lockwork parts which I've done before but once I found the distorted rifling and the bulge outside the barrel I kinda lost hope that it would function again. Even though it was free I'm not will to fork out money to have another barrel fitted.

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[SquarePizza]

There are actually a few youtube videos on S&W smithing and some cover barrel replacement.

 

[steelslaver]

Depends on what equipment you have and your mechanicall skills. The Corps pin is .050 and most drift punches are 1/16" (.065) First problem. Frame wrench to properly support frame to break barrel loose and tighten new barrel (2nd) problem. Once barrel is tight and sight is at 12 0'clock (if not, problem 3 is tools to set back barrels shoulder so it times.) Barrel tight and gaps not right problem 4.